If last few seasons were all about the maxi dress, 2013 has couturiers chopping off a few inches to welcome the new ‘IT’ length – the midi. Often touted as dowdy and conservative, midi lengths have been surprisingly missing from the fashion scene for decades before designers finally picked it up in 2007. For a garment that was invented out of recession and conformities, midi lengths have, surprisingly, transcended to befit the sartorial tastes of both designers and consumers. Spotted on runways worldwide in figure flattering dresses and skirts with high street retailers belting out every style in it, midi lengths have been predicted to make a massive comeback in 2014…
Move over micro minis, the conservative yet equally fashionable midi lengths have been wishfully accepted as the new ‘IT’ thing in the fashion fraternity; and to think of only mini lengths as outrageous, a peek into the history that leads to midi lengths is nothing short of a sensation, paving its way through controversies and speculation. Symbolic of elegance and grace in the 1940’s, midi lengths were essentially identified as a smart skirt set, until Dior, resurrected the idea with their 1947’s New look. In came the heavy silhouettes with cinched waist, in mid calf lengths, focusing on an ideal perception of femininity.
Dictated as a wardrobe essential in 1970’s, midi lengths were positioned as the paradigm of appropriate hemline by designers and marketers, backed by aggressive campaigning, a concept that was unsparingly shunned by the strong headed women of the era, who refused to cover up. The dwindling status of the midi, over the years, can be attributed to the hesitant wearability of it, as most women would choose a safer hemline over a dubious one. Likewise, designers hardly subsumed the lengths in dresses, or even skirts, causing the trend to lurk in the shadows for decades.
Today, the midi is no longer a style that is dictated and fed as an anti-dote to liberal dressing, but created to do just the opposite – It is now the expression of haute couture yet it’s every bit convenient. From the pages of a mid century novel to contemporary runways worldwide, it has been quite a transition for the prim length. For Spring/Summer 2013 a very evident love affair between top notch designers and midi length dresses and skirts was witnessed. Two years back, not a lot of people would have put their money on the midi lengths but Spring 2013 saw Ellie Saab translating the trend on delicately embroidered tulle dresses in pastel shades alongside the floral printed, vintage silhouettes of Valentino in expensive organza.
Christian Dior cultivated the length in iridescent fabrics and a full blown silhouette, keeping it a prissy mid calf length and consequently revisiting their iconic 1947’s new look for the vintage appeal. Spring brought with it not just sophisticated glamour, but a broader sense of style, from different eras, merged with contemporary influences. Midi lengths were not merely confined to the subtle look but it was bolder, edgier and individualistic in appeal. Victoria Beckham, who practically endorsed the midi length in both her Spring and Fall collections, combined the trend with an air of comfort and breathability with plain, straight-silhouetted skirts in georgette, chiffons and lace insets, besides her staple sheath dresses in similar lengths. Monochrome and Punk, the two most sensational trends of the year, were grasped on midi lengths as well; Louis Vuitton black & white shift dresses, smartly finished right below the knee while Anna Sui’s contoured chambray dress had an idiosyncratic punk quality about it.
Why the Midi length…
Midi is a length loved by all fashion forward women because of the design innovation and versatility behind it… the length is flexible, fabric options are immense and with designers integrating the midi in a myriad of looks, high street retailer are quick to tap on the trend in enterprising silhouettes and variations. In a research conducted by Debanhams, as a part of their free party dress consultation on the onset of 2013, record 35 per cent women chose midi lengths, just below the knee, as the hem length choice for formal occasions like Christmas. The brand’s spokesperson reasoned it out by calling the ‘era of cover up’, with midi lengths overthrowing the mini skirt and stockings. The midi length has been rendered in both skirts and dresses, in a wide range of fabrics. Taking a cue from Christopher Kane’s basic skirts in translucent silk for Spring/Summer 2013, Zara belted out similar skirts in trendy sheer fabric in a non clingy, easy silhouette.
While H&M has transverses midi length in fitted pencil skirt in striking shades of blue and red with a slit in the back, figure flattering midi dresses in bold stripes, adds to the glamour quotient at Topshop. In a similar vein, a look through ASOS’s dress section, finds a deluge of midi length dresses, be it bodycon, loose A-line silhouettes or a straight fit. While stretch lace, knitted and stretch jersey fabrics account for the fitted dresses; chiffons and poly blends are the fabric choice for the easier silhouettes. Geometrical, Aztec, stripes, and whole lot of abstract digital prints, not only makes for a stellar midi length dress but also for a hot selling garment for Spring/Summer 2014.
Indian Exporters on Track…
Comfort is the key for Spring/Summer 2014. Expect breezy silhouettes in midi length dresses with serious attention on soothing fabrics. “The trend has started in 2013 and it’ll only go bigger in the next Spring,” affirms Zakir Hussain, Owner, Cotfab (India), Jaipur, specializing in skirts and dresses for European markets. Hussain pins on basic broomstick skirts for the European market in pastel shades of sea green, turquoise and coral.
Needless to say, Spring belongs to the pastel palette. As Jai Singh, Designer, Blue Coral avers, ‘Pastels and water colours add to the transparency of the sheer fabric, giving a vibe of Spring.” Resort wear exporters, Blue Coral by Pravesh and Jai, are creating calf length Kaftans in organic cotton, silk and chiffon for the next season, targeting boutique shops in France, Italy and Greece. The length too, that was barely below the knee in Spring 2013 will expectantly fall lower in the coming season.
“We’re designing shift dresses with hems finishing at 95 cm, for Dorothy Perkins, in CVC, Georgette and some in chiffons,” says Rebecca Nelson, Designer, Impulse Overseas. Clearly, the trend is gravitating toward basic silhouettes, as Harini Swami, Designer, Shahi Exports concurs, “The midi length slip-on dresses will be seen in Spring 2014. We’re developing simple, shift dresses in georgette and heavy crepe for H&M.’’
After making a quiet debut in 2013, midi lengths are unarguably going to join the bandwagon of the biggest trends of Spring/Summer 2014. The midi is no longer ignored; rather it has found its own as a fashionable garment. While the popularity of midi lengths will continue to oscillate between a multitude of causes, for some it defines modest dressing, while for others it is a break from excessive skin show that has dominated fashion for decades. One fact remains unfazed – The prim and proper midi lengths are finally up and about.
