Though it has been universally accepted that training is the most important element of growth for an evolving industry, ironically it also happens to be the most neglected aspect, particularly in the case of home workers who form the backbone of the apparel industry in India with intricate value additions. Training Modules targeted at this segment developed by Government bodies and NGO’s to train fresher on hand work and also develop the skill of experienced workers on newer methods for productivity improvement and quality do exist, but not many clusters have been adopted by the NGO to impart training and many of them have been unsuccessful experiments. Majority of exporters, contractors and job workers are also not aware of the available schemes.
It is encouraging to see that training modules for hand embroidery under Minister of Labour, Directorate General of Employment & Training covers almost all kinds of work like Applique, Patch work, Chikan Kari, Bead work, Kasuti, Kantha, Kashidakari, Phulkari, Zardosi etc. It also includes practical as well theory and issues like health and safety. These courses are running at various institutes like ITI (Industrial Training Institutes), NGOs like Sewa in Delhi and SPYM (Society for Promotion of Youth and Masses) in Haryana also runs such training modules independently at their two centres Ashok Nagar and Sunder Nagri having morning and evening batches for four months course with a nominal fees. More thrust is given on the practical training here. But these centres have their limitations as they are in selected areas with some official formalities of regular classrooms, educational qualifications etc. and are not really suitable for home workers.
Delhi-NCR alone has more than 500 contractors offering hand work from home workers and a majority of these contractors have no information about training options, nor do they have any arrangements of the same at their offices/centres. Not only that even exporters have never asked or showed any interest for their training. Whenever a new style comes, their master or designers explain to the contractor what they need and the contractor conveys the message to the sub contractor or the ladies directly. Supervisor or the girls working with contractors do help for the same. Kapashera near Gurgaon, Kotla, Shahpur Jat, Molarband village in Delhi and some areas of Faridabad and Noida are hubs of such home workers where big or small, every order can be completed but there is nothing in the name of systemized training.
In the meanwhile, contractors feel strongly that training will be a major skill booster for home workers. At Kalchina, a village near Modi Nagar (UP), more than 2000 women have expertise in smoking embroidery and they pass the art of the work to new workers, however, if smoking is not in fashion they have no work. “Despite being in touch with export houses we do face some problems in some styles and designs, so training is required to enhance their skills, even quality also,” admits one contractor. He also feels that with training these ladies will work like professionals, as of now they take the work very casually, just as a source of extra income. Contractors also arrange adda workers from Bareilly in Delhi- NCR.
Few exporters of Delhi-NCR have come forward to start centres in Bareilly, Sikandrabad, Garhmukteshwar, Moradabad (all in UP), however the prime focus of these centres is not training, but to ensure ethical practices and to eliminate the contractors and sub contractors from the chain. Other hub s like Lucknow, known for chikan kari, don’t have such centres; one exporter tried with the help of an NGO, but the centre could not continue more than 3 months due to local elements which didn’t want to make home workers trained and professional for their own interest. Even those exporters who have in-house handworkers do not take initiatives for enhancing their skills.
What Industry has to say…
“Quality and similarity of work was the achievement of our training efforts in Kanpur and its surrounding villages. We regularly sent small batches of women from Kanpur to Malihabad (27 kilometres from Lucknow) to get training on very fine handwork. These trained women further train others and we were able to get the same work in Kanpur for which we were earlier dependent on Lucknow. Still I feel women need training at two levels: to understand the value of quality as these garments have high fobs, so no fault can be ignored. Secondly, they should realize the value of their work, as they are working for the top retailers of the world.” Sujata R Seth, Director, Sujata Enterprise, Kanpur (Export house working with more than 600 women of Kanpur and Farrukhabad).
“With the help of Rotary Club we initiated a centre in Kamta village near Lucknow but it could not continue due to local issues. Training will empower such ladies working at their homes and help the industry to get quality; more availability of such workers will ultimately save time. There are thousands of home workers in Lucknow who need this type of training.” Shishir Kapoor, Director, MLK Exports, Lucknow (Export house known for Chikan work in its collection).
“Our training is basically an effort to attract and empower fresh ladies. As they are not traditionally trained, we try to train them in a proper way. During the course we offer them work of Ruaab which motivates them. Work after training is also a part of our efforts.” Sanjay Singh, Director, Sewa (Associated with more than 750 permanent and trained home workers, Sewa India has given training more than 500 ladies in last few years)
“We did a lot of training in Hatin and surrounding areas of Mewat and trainers provided by Orient Clothing were quite impressed by the learning ability of the home workers. Workers had a good base and we upscaled them, which enhanced their productivity and quality so that alteration rate was almost nil, which was a good achievement. It also became easier to get the minimum wages for the women. Now after the gap of 2 years we are starting training of Adda work by 4 industrial professional without even having any work from export houses so we can be prepared whenever we will get the orders.” Rajesh, Executive Director, SPYM, Delhi. SPYM is connected with more than 1,000 home workers having command of adda work and crochea.
“Training of such workers is not difficult but one has to come and take initiative as there is no way to improve their work and skills. They are doing what they are doing from the day one. To add new workers, training is the most important tool.” Ajay Singh, AK Enterprise, Delhi (Contractor having reach more than 1000 ladies and working with many top exporters of Delhi- NCR).
“We do some efforts at our own level but to enhance their skill level and efficiency, organized training is must. It has to be inside the villages to attract the women and to give maximum benefit.” Digamber Singh, Monu Hand Embroidery, Modi Nagar (Contractor doing this job from last 12 years and associated with 10 exporters and more than 1500 ladies of the villages of Modi Nagar).
“We will welcome if somebody comes forward and supports us for the training of our home based workers. It will be an added advantage for home workers and definitely will convert them into professionals from a casual worker.” Surya Prakash, Contractor, Delhi (Working with top level exporter, is associated with Molarband village base hundreds of hand workers).
