The rise of adaptive clothing: embracing inclusivity in fashion

In the rapidly evolving fashion landscape, terms like sustainability, traceability and gender neutrality dominate conversations. However, one concept that truly captures attention and fosters meaningful change is ‘inclusivity’. Inclusive fashion aims to cater to individuals of all abilities and disabilities, ensuring that everyone feels represented and valued.

According to World Health Organization (WHO), there are currently over 1 billion people worldwide with some form of disability. This number is projected to increase in the coming years due to factors such as population aging and the growing burden of chronic diseases. Additionally, the United Nations predicts that the global population aged 60 years or over will reach 2.1 billion by 2050.

To facilitate the integration of individuals with disabilities and the elderly into society, the fashion industry has taken strides by offering ‘adaptive clothing’. These specially designed garments address mobility issues, sensory impairments and disabilities, providing a more comfortable, dignified and accessible dressing experience for those facing challenges with traditional clothing.

Adaptive clothing incorporates various design elements to enhance functionality, such as Velcro closures or hooks instead of buttons, zippers with easy pull grabs, side zippers on trousers, open-back tops, elasticated waistlines and magnetic shoe fastenings. These features enable ‘people with disabilities’ (PwDs) to dress comfortably while maintaining their dignity and feeling at ease in their own skin.

Ranil Vitarana, Chief Innovation Officer at MAS Holdings and CTO of Twinery, in conversation with Apparel Resources (AR), emphasises the importance of inclusive language and representation for persons with disabilities. He highlights how certain terminologies like ‘invalid, crippled, special, differently-abled, handicapped’ and others can be presumptuous and limiting, hindering the integration of individuals with disabilities into society. Society must push for more inclusive terms and attitudes to ensure fair representation and foster inclusivity.

The growing market demand and global brand initiatives

The global market for adaptive clothing, valued at approximately US $ 13.6 billion in 2022 according to Adaptive Clothing Market Analysis Survey 2023, is further experiencing significant growth of around 5 per cent CAGR by 2030.

As consumers increasingly prioritise brands that promote confidence through their clothing, apparel companies are motivated to develop adaptive designs that empower people with disabilities. It is evident that prominent fashion houses are finally recognising this trend.

Several leading brands have already made significant strides in the adaptive clothing niche. Tommy Hilfiger’s Adaptive Collection, Zappos Adaptive, Silvert’s Adaptive Clothing & Footwear and Izzy Camilleri’s IZ Collection are among the pioneers providing inclusive fashion and a feasible range of options.

Tommy Hilfiger, a trailblazer in adaptive clothing, collaborated with Runway of Dreams to create stylish clothing for people with disabilities. Its special kids’ line features magnets and adjustable waistbands, making it easier for children with disabilities to dress themselves. Magnetic buttons and cuffs are incorporated into button-down shirts, while pants feature magnetic flies and zippers, adjustable hems and pull-on loops inside the waistbands for easy wearability.

Tommy Hilfiger’s Founder emphasises that inclusivity and democratising fashion have always been core values of the brand. The collections continue to build on this vision, empowering differently- abled adults to express themselves through fashion.

Target’s Cat & Jack brand stands out as a leader in the world of adaptive fashion. Its clothing line for kids is not only stylish but also sensory-friendly and adaptive. Crafted from soft and durable cotton knits, these garments feature convenient snap and zip closures, simplifying the dressing process for children with special needs.

Nike has also demonstrated compassion and responsiveness by designing sneakers specifically for individuals with cerebral palsy. These sneakers feature a wraparound zipper and a larger opening for easy accessibility, making a significant impact on the lives of those facing mobility challenges.

MagnaReady, in partnership with PVH, has taken adaptive fashion a step further by developing dress shirts for adults. These shirts utilise innovative MagnaClick technology, eliminating the hassle of traditional buttons and making dressing and undressing a seamless experience. This collaboration has brought accessible and stylish dress shirts to the market, empowering individuals with disabilities to feel confident and fashionable.

JAM The Label has joined forces with fashion designer Rachel Shugg to launch an exceptional collection of adaptive apparel. This collaboration seamlessly blends fashion and accessibility by incorporating sensory-friendly materials and magnetic zips and closures. JAM The Label proves that fashion can be both trendy and inclusive.

Asiya Rafiq, a UAE-based adaptive fashion stylist and founder of Adaptive by Asiya, has created a brand that makes modest, adaptive clothing for disabled Muslim women, recognising and addressing the specific needs of this community.

Even renowned fashion retailer Zalando has made waves by introducing its first-ever adaptive fashion collection. With over 140 styles available across various private labels, Zalando is committed to catering to different price ranges and sizes. Its inclusive approach fills a significant gap in the market, providing attractive and functional adaptive apparel for all, regardless of ability.

These remarkable initiatives demonstrate the power of fashion to promote inclusivity. By offering attractive and functional adaptive clothing options, these brands empower individuals with disabilities to express their unique style while feeling confident and comfortable. Through their dedication, they are reshaping the fashion industry and fostering a more inclusive society.

The Indian fashion industry and its journey towards inclusivity

According to Registrar General and Census Commissioner of India (RG & CCI), out of the 121 crore population (as of 2011 census), 2.68 crore persons were ‘disabled’ which was 2.21 per cent of the total population. The number is expected to have risen to approximately 3.49 crore by 2022.

India is home to millions of individuals with disabilities, including physical, sensory and cognitive impairments. This demographic segment faces unique challenges in finding suitable clothing that accommodates their specific needs. It is estimated by various reports that, of the overall adaptive clothing market worldwide, India constitutes around 8-10 per cent of values.

Anita Narayan Iyer, Founder and Trustee of Ekansh Trust, emphasises the absence of adaptive clothing in Indian stores and retail outlets. Recognising the need for change, she states that it’s time to start designing clothes for people with disabilities. Ekansh Trust aims to promote adaptive clothing in India’s mainstream clothing industry, catering to senior citizens, PwDs and individuals facing clothing challenges after surgery.

While most adaptive clothing is usually made-to-order, a wave of Indian designers have taken the initiative to make inclusive fashion more accessible. Designers like Shivan and Narresh based in Delhi and Nidhi Munim from Mumbai were among the first to think creatively and introduce mastectomy blouses and mastectomy swimwear, respectively, addressing the specific needs of individuals who have undergone mastectomy surgery.

Despite the absence of major retailers in this category, a few homegrown brands are actively working to make adaptive clothing more accessible in India. Soumita Basu founded her own adaptive fashion brand, Zyenika, in early 2020, catering to people with disabilities and the elderly. Zyenika offers inclusive clothing such as wraparound sarees, tops with armhole openings for limited shoulder and arm movement and trousers with kneepads to prevent bruising for individuals who crawl.

Other homegrown brands, such as Moveability Clothing from Kottayam, Cur8abilty from Mumbai and Aaraam Se from Kerala, are also dedicated to the same cause. Cur8ability, founded by Rainna Goel at the age of 14, focuses on creating easy-to-wear adaptive clothing for disabled children, seniors and the elderly. Its garments feature practical options such as elastic, snaps, magnets, large buttons, easy zippers, drawstrings and Velcro for dress shirts, raincoats, swim trunks and PJs.

Aaraam Se, founded by designer Ashima Bhan in Kerala, caters to the clothing needs of the elderly who still enjoy dressing well. It offers a stylish, comfortable and fun collection that has served over 2000+ customers to date.

Shalini Visakan, another designer from Chennai and an alumna of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, established Suvastra Designs after witnessing the difficulties her husband, a polio survivor who uses a wheelchair, faced. Her designs incorporate features such as longer crotches for adult diapers, larger loops on zippers and sarees that can be effortlessly slipped on like a nightdress.

Challenges hindering the growth of adaptive clothing industry in India

The adaptive clothing industry in India faces several challenges that hinder its development. One such challenge is the high production and distribution costs, which reduce profit margins and competitiveness for manufacturers and retailers. Additionally, the lack of standardisation and regulation of adaptive clothing products raise concerns about quality, safety and durability.

Soumita Basu, Founder of Zyenika, states that the stigma associated with adaptive clothing creates a barrier for brands to enter this market. The demarcation of adaptive clothing as a special category perpetuates the idea of ‘normal’ clothing versus ‘special’ clothing. She emphasises that making clothing friendly for individuals with special needs does not require a drastic style shift but rather small adjustments for comfort and independence.

Furthermore, the adaptive clothing industry in India faces manufacturing difficulties due to the absence of a skilled and trained workforce and inadequate infrastructure in small-scale industries. The lack of collaboration and coordination among various stakeholders, including government agencies, NGOs, healthcare professionals, designers, manufacturers, retailers and consumers, compounds these challenges.

Additionally, retailers have a different perspective on the business, as limited demand, higher prices, limited visibility and the lack of variety and differentiation in style, design, colour and size affect the segment’s growth. Consumer trust and confidence are low due to the absence of quality assurance or certification and higher prices.

Addressing the challenges and fostering growth

India has a robust textile and garment supply chain with a wealth of manufacturing expertise that needs to be realised by the stakeholders. This industry can readily adapt to produce adaptive clothing, ensuring quality and affordability, and rightly so as advancements in textile technology, such as the development of stretchable and breathable fabrics, allow for the creation of adaptive clothing.

Collaborative efforts will be the key

Various organisations including non-profit ones and fashion designers in India are working together to raise awareness, conduct research and develop adaptive clothing solutions. These collaborations ensure that adaptive clothing becomes more accessible and widely available across the country.

Shilpa Das, Principal Faculty, Interdisciplinary Design Studies at the National Institute of Design (NID) and Vice-chairperson of the Indian Disability Studies Collective (IDSC India), mentions the need for collaboration between retailers and designers.

“The retailers should focus on building trust and confidence among consumers by ensuring quality assurance and certification. Designers, on the other hand, need to explore innovative approaches that make adaptive clothing more affordable without compromising on quality. By working together, retailers and designers can overcome the challenges and create a thriving adaptive clothing market in India,” stated Shilpa.

Simply put, while the Indian fashion industry is still in the early stages of embracing adaptive fashion, homegrown brands and designers are surely going to make significant strides to provide inclusive clothing options. However, challenges such as high production costs, lack of standardisation and limited coordination among stakeholders need to be addressed to foster the growth of the adaptive clothing industry in India. Besides, there must be an ethical balance between commercial activity and social responsibility. Innovative approaches to adaptive clothing must try to satisfactorily realise universal applications into feasible clothing ideas with invisible assistive features embedded in them. These products have to look and feel no different from mainstream clothing to avoid any kind of stigmatisation of the special user groups. By working together and finding innovative solutions, the industry can create a more inclusive society where fashion is accessible to all.