by Anjori Grover Vasesi
07-January-2019 | 8 mins read
The international fashion week has run its course for the approaching Spring/Summer 2019 season, leaving behind a trail of references in its wake, for brands and retailers to heed.
A noticeable change this season has been the dominance of gothic black against a pool of popping summery brights and sorbet tones. All black head-to-toe looks seem to be the conversation of the moment in the retail fashion-scape as designers play with form and function.
An ode to the Wild, Wild West was a prevalent theme across fashion capitals with a heavy influx of studded suede and leather pieces, prairie dresses and patchwork yokes. The fringe posed as a key detail element in this regard.
Folkloric elements such as crochet, patch-worked pieces, fishnets and macramé weaves evoked a strong handmade feel which is a key driving force in the industry today. A crafty theme was prominent on the runways laying emphasis on artisanal techniques that pose as a counteraction to fast, unsustainable fashion.
Power suiting and utility continue to be the leading force, whilst denim makes a comeback… all this and more in our post-fashion month analysis, rounding up the biggest trends for the upcoming season… Read on to discover:
The travel theme has been gaining steady momentum since the past few seasons. As consumers of today continue to pride experiences over everything else, top-notch brands run to capture the spending power of this segment by introducing travel-inspired, Instagram-friendly pieces such as sporty swimwear, functional outerwear, Bermuda shorts, sarongs and wrap dresses/skirts in natural, breathable materials. The accessories standpoint include belt bags and fanny packs, bucket hats and decorative flip-flops perfect for the beach, whilst details such as seashells and tie-and-dye effects are hot for the approaching Summer season.
Animal prints have been around long enough to be considered a classic in their own right. After making a massive splash on the fall runways, the print’s reappearance at the Spring shows makes it clear that this trend means big business.
Leopard and snake skin prints top the list in a variety of colourways limited not only to the original effect. Designers and brands are also experimenting with unconventional palettes such as neons, blues, pinks and lilacs to make a statement. According to Edited, animal print emerged as the third bestselling print in the period of September-October 2018 itself.
In the current fashion landscape, it is no surprise that comfort is king. After the huge retail success enjoyed by last season’s Bermuda shorts, its next contender in line, bicycle shorts is paving its way for Spring.
From Fendi to Chanel to Mugler to Nicopanda, the season has enough references to help carve out the perfect assortment for the next season. Head-to-toe coordinated sets, popping bright neons, transitional athletic styles in updated performance fabrics and even embellished versions such as those at Roberto Cavalli are some key inspirations to note.
As predicted in our previous issue, denim is back with a bang!
After a long lull, the category is back with ample innovation in the form of oversized trucker jackets, baggy jeans, cargo pants and a flurry of detail-play.
Effects such as tie-and-dye and bleached-out washes pose as key directions to follow, with a convincing nod towards detailing such as patchwork, colour blocking and the inclusion of decorative frills and ruffles. Worn-out finishes and frayed hems carry forward from yester-seasons proving that the vintage look is still in.
A major nostalgic throwback was a key peg for many designers and brands for revolving their Spring/Summer 2019 collections around. A boho-inspired vibe was omnipresent at the international runways depicted via an avid use of worn-out patchwork detailing, vintage paisley motif work and free-flowing forms. The Macintosh emerged as a game-changer in the outerwear category whilst flared silhouettes such as bell bottoms appeared as the mainstay across collections. Colour palettes were dominated by browns and olive greens.
The Net Effect
A direct output of the vacation soiree, details such as crochet and fishnet pose as a key trend for the approaching Spring/Summer 2019 season. Full on fishnet dresses – either dotted with adornments and/or applique or plain as-is, were spotted at Dior, Altuzarra, Phillip Lim and Pyers Moss, whilst Louis Vuitton introduced a sporty zest with a sculpted shoulder look.
The market is ripe for handmade aesthetics and crocheted details fall right under this category. Designers went all out and experimented with crocheted tops, beach-approved bags and even footwear to score high on the pastoral appeal.
Black Is Back
Contrasting to what Spring stands for, there is a tilt to the dark side this Summer.
Gothic black, usually reserved for the Fall/Winter season, is extending its stay by popularising all-black iterations. Designers are experimenting with form and function by using this colour in head-to-toe layered pieces in sheer fabrics and statement sleeves. The hue was also noticeable as a key balancer between bold and bright pieces for a contrasting effect.
The memo being spread this season is ‘to go big, or go home – but in a fancy, costume party sort of way’. Volume, layers, ruffles and frills are aplenty with designers tapping on a dolled up aesthetic, very feminine in nature. Glittery tulle, tiered ruffles, embroidered and face veils invoke a feeling of fantasy in a world currently dominated by realism.
Collections to watch out are those of Simone Rocha, Rodarte, Gucci and Marc Jacobs, to name a few.