by Shubhi Srivastava
05-February-2019 | 6 mins read
An expansive day showcasing the multifarious facets of the Indian fashion industry, the fourth day at Lakmé Fashion Week S/R’19 witnessed several designers, old and new, bringing forward their A-game with dreamy pastel tulles, to functionality and athleisure peaks going on to an indulgent beachwear edition and finally ending with a bold spin on Indian occasion-wear. Here’s our edit for the top designers of the day.
Sonal Verma’s Label Rara Avis with Bhavana Jhakia of Om Jewellers and Rajeshwary Singh of Senco
Celebrating the marriage of mystic elements of Africa, with cultural bindings, the collection, “REISIGER,” by Sonal Verma for ‘Rara Avis’ was an opulent ride capturing the essence of a global traveller. Exploration with handmade laces and raffia was cleverly done on handloom fabrics, like brushed cotton and cotton silk from all across India.
Indigenous finishing techniques such as knotting, fringing, embellishment and layering were at peak of detailing with ensembles carrying multiple forms of leather ranging from Rexene to suede were well-altered, along with detailing. The garments took a palette of tonal neutrals, like washed coral, camel, sand and safari greens over silhouettes that were relaxed and on-point for vacation. Sonal offered capris with pleated hemlines, floppy jackets and dresses edged with white tassels on the hem.
An effortlessly feminine range of occasion-wear, Anushree’s collection, “Atirah”, was an embroidered tale in teal, powder green, beige and pastels. The high points of the creations were tone-on-tone thread work and delicate hand dyed beads, with the value addition of hand-crafted fleur, butterflies, leaves and mystical Apsaras.
Long fabulous glittering gowns, swirling, regal lehengas, mesmerising cholis and flowing dupattas and embellished ponchos paired with ethnic lehengas were encapsulated in the womenswear offering while the menswear included embroidered bundies over kurtas and churidars, bundgalas, sherwanis with impressive shawls, all in pastels.
A master of pattern manipulation and conceptual fashion, Nikhil Thampi turned heads with his line called “Semi Colon”, an inspiration that was cleverly executed throughout the collection, with the semi-colon slammed at the neck, sleeves, shoulders waist or as an all over motif on the garments.
Sharply tailored silhouettes with a twist of contrasting design language included opposing styles such as body-cons graded to boxy forms, and angled, curved panels in shine, matte, solid, monochrome and colour blocking came together to form creative ensembles.
Power dressing with a hint of wearable Pret was the mantra for the designer who included elements such as heavily padded shoulders for the square ‘Y’ silhouette, and clean cut high waist pants, slim skirts, wide trousers with extended pockets, moulded rigid blouses, halter maxis, sheaths, angular long tops, all in three colour stories- earthy browns, dirty grey greens and shimmery silvers.
Reebok Sole Fury With Bodice
The perfect amalgamation of fashion-forward active and streetwear, Reebok’s Sole Fury, made its Indian debut with Ruchika Sachdev’s ‘Bodice Studio’ at the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2019.
Celebrating those who have “split from the pack”, the Reebok Sole Fury collection aimed to capture the “your sole line of footwear”. Pleats and stripes were cleverly submerged in the easy silhouettes using variations in piping, seams moulded over oversized blouses with a marked colour blocking in navy and eggshell blue.
R | Elan™ presents SHIVAN & NARRESH
The decadent holiday apparel champions, SHIVAN & NARRESH, unfolded the Patu Series collection on runways that redefined the R | Elan™ FreeFlow fabrics to present a print parade right out of the jungle. The international trend of animal prints was revisited to give it an ethnic touch featuring 6 new prints – Panthera, Sunderbans, Iconorosh, Fagun, Urvi and Deccan, that captured the sublime elements of Bengal’s Pattachitra art and juxtaposed it with the intrinsic Tholu Bommalata leather puppetry of Andhra Pradesh.
A vivid colour palette of Amber, Indigo, Slate, Ruby, Dusk and Jade was encapsulated in styles ranging from the signature Shivan & Naresh saris, to midi dresses, bikinis, cover-ups and separates. The collection checked the multi-functionality box as it was deemed perfect to be worn during indulgent weddings, plush honeymoons, an informal yatch party or a simple stroll through the beach.
NEXA presents Raghavendra Rathore
The closing show by Raghavendra Rathore encompassed an eccentric take on the classic silhouette of bandhgala, with the finely crafted tribute collection, “An Ode To The Bandhgala”. Keeping in line with the NEXA hues of Nexa Blue, black, ivory and charcoal grey, the line made the cut to be suitable for both evening and formal wear.
The opulence of hand-woven textiles of silk and natural yarns, the collection included contrasting to and bottom wear styles as the bandhgalas jackets were paired against flouncy mini skirts with tiered explorations, trains and asymmetrical designs. Men’s wear included intricately textured sherwanis and white waistcoat, printed kurtas under bandhgalas and one- button, narrow-lapelled jackets with peaked lapels. Shawl collars appeared for tuxedos in satin or suiting material.