by Anjori Grover Vasesi
27-August-2019 | 9 mins read
The five day biannual fashion bacchanal at the heart of Mumbai is fast approaching its end!
Day 4 at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 notches higher with a star-studded attendance and creative output at its zenith. Partnering up with NEXA, this season saw dynamic designer duo of Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna make a dramatic comeback at Lakmé Fashion Week after 15 years. The celebrated couturiers amplified their signature beading techniques with masterful tailoring and edgy cuts.
Lakmé introduced Ananya Panday as it’s new face during the Blockbuster Brides show, which showcased collections by Hyderabad-based designer Anushree Reddy and Mumbai-based Arpita Mehta. Both designers focused on feminine offerings but each was distinct in its own way – more of which you can read about in detail in the reviews below…
The day also saw Tahweave weave a story that contemporarised her traditional aesthetics by integrating international and bohemian sensibilities. The label stayed true to its design ethics, by reviving age-old crafts, with a ritualistic mix of screen printing and hand weaves. Using discreet stripes and checks, with hints of Jamdaani detailing, the silhouettes spoke of a raw bold, yet chic aesthetic.
Read on to elucidate yourself with the standout collections on Day 4 of Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019.
Menswear maestro Kunal Rawal never fails to amuse and surprise you at the same time. Becoming bigger and better with the season, Winter/Festive 2019 saw Kunal upping his game by introducing not only womenswear but kidswear as well! Set to take over the market, Kunal offered a sartorial take on Indian sensibilities by fusing contemporary, functional silhouettes with a traditional twist.
In partnership with boAt, the boAt x Kunal Rawal collection sharply cut yet well tailored silhouettes with a hint of streetwear inspiration – something which has come to be known as an integral part of the label’s design language. Details such as cropped bundis, distressed finishes, layering and button-less bandhgalas, angular hems, skinny trousers, waistcoats with lapels and high slit kurtas formed the basis of the fast paced collection.
Kunal’s debut womenswear offering featured an ethos borrowed from his main line of menswear with similar techniques, surface plays and motifs translated into more feminine silhouettes such as long shirts and jackets.
Narendra Kumar’s Winter/Festive 2019 collection revolves around relaxed athleisure pieces. Titled ‘Stranger Noises’ by FKNS, the show posed as the fourth instalment of this protesting label’s fashion series.
FKNS for Narendra means ‘Fake News’, which has troubled the designer for several seasons which he hoped to eradicate with each collection in this series. Inspired by the social events in the world ‘Stranger Noises’, was a line of conflicting and contrasting creative ideas that reflected the mood of the current atmosphere of the world.
Edgy bomber jackets, denim pieces in a colour card of soft pastels of pink, blue and green, and tailored suits formed the basis of the collection. These were further embellished with interesting placement of embroidery and mesh and knitwear.
A monochrome sportswear strip detail with the branding of ‘FKNS Mumbai’ written all over, served as a key element of detail in the collection. Graffiti letters of words like ‘diversity’, ‘hate’, ‘love’, ‘racism’, ‘beauty’, ‘walls’, ‘inclusive’ and more made an appearance on several garments in the form of digital prints and sequin embroidery. The same words were also painted on the faces of some of the models’ faces and shoes.
ROHIT GANDHI AND RAHUL KHANNA
Couturiers Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna made a comeback at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 after 15 years. Titled ‘Interstellar’, the collection in association with NEXA, highlighted the dynamic duo’s global sensibilities and impeccable cuts, which embodied NEXA’s characteristics – new age and innovation.
The colour palette revolved around NEXA colours of black and white with tones of grey, platinum and gunmetal along with the signature NEXA Blue. Lush and opulent materials such as plush satins, frosty silks, sheer tulles and suiting organzas brought grandeur to the ensembles.
Details such as generous splashes of intricate pearlescent beaded elements, and geometric patterns crafted out of beading of luxurious embellishments, dominated the collection.
Under the womenswear category, fringes and angular asymmetrical elements accentuated sensuous dresses, gowns, wrap slim skirts, halters, high slit dresses, plunged neckline fringed mini sheaths and one-shoulder dolman sleeved mini.
Standout pieces include the coat-dress sheath, shorts with wrap sheer mini and the one-shouldered ombré gown with embroidered bodice.
Menswear featured jackets with discreet shimmer and innovative construction. Corded jackets with kurtas, waistcoats, jumpsuits with extended shoulders, short one-lapel jacket, and long line jackets brought about an unconventional vibe to the collection.
Standout pieces included the faux waistcoat and tuxedo style version, one-button, layered jackets and double-lapel jackets that featured large welt pockets.
The brainchild of Kanika Sachdev and Neelanjan Ghosh, the ‘Jajaabor’ label, which means ‘nomad’ in Assamese, has always offered clothes with a universal appeal.
For their Winter/Festive collection at Lakmé Fashion Week 2019, the pair channeled childhood nostalgia as the inspiration. Quaintly titled ‘Chai at Mughalsarai Jn’, the collection delved deep into their childhood memories when travel by train was one of the happiest holidays and visiting the various tourist destinations a dream come true.
The folksy local hues, the middle-class ethos, memories of the little joys of childhood moments came alive on their creations in the form of prints, embroidery and colours.
Print and embroidery served as the ultimate highlight of the collection. Motifs of tigers, trains, flowers, horses, elephants, buildings, houses, vied for attention with destination names like Amritsar Jn, New Delhi, Agra, Sholapur, Mughalsarai Jn, Pune written in English and Devanagari script.
Silhouettes were dramatic and reinvented classics but featured deconstruction as a key element of detail. The designers played with the beauty of traditional textiles bringing together a vast milieu of fabrics like Khadi, silk Chanderi, organza, Jamdaani, tussar, georgette, Banarasi weaves in Chanderi along with gold tissue.
Multi-layering techniques served as the crux of the collection as diaphanous skirts, asymmetric kurtas and neat waistcoats stood out with a myriad of prints.
Standout pieces include large, lapelled, cropped jackets layered over striped crossover tunics teamed with layered skirts and sleek trousers. The sari was layered under asymmetric flouncy sleeved, floor length, kimono.
Fusing the contemporary with the traditional and weaving a tale of fun, flirty silhouettes is a characteristic that Arpita has come to be associated with.
Details such as antique coins, ghungroos, mirror work, cowrie shells mixed with a myriad of prints channeled in major Coachella vibes and set a boho mood.
Intricately embellished jackets, slim kurtas, flowing shararas and stylishly belted kaftans crafted out of luxe materials such as Tabi silk, Modal and silk organza set the tone of her Winter/Festive 2019 collection.
Key elements such as strappy blouses, risqué necklines and sensuous cuts served as the perfect selling point for the new age woman who is forever on the lookout for something out of the ordinary.
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