This spring speaks loudly about femininity, whether it be a nod towards the urbane woman, who is being catered to with easygoing ensembles and futuristic yet sensual cuts; or the glam girls who prefer decorative laces, sequins and iridescent surface play.
Eccentric shapes meet craftsmanship as designers and high fashion labels flaunt exquisite pattern-making skills. A series of artistic draping, twisting, cut-outs, cinching and folding techniques are used to accentuate silhouettes.
Floral embroideries make a comeback but not in the dainty, romantic way you would expect this season; they can be seen taking on a more folkloric tone and present themselves as understated, muted versions of their counterparts. On the surface front, wide explorations of washes are undertaken over denims ranging from worn out effects to deeper indigo dips.
Less is more as the industry catapults towards diaphanous silhouettes, cut-out hints and crochet detailing, while underplaying the feminine aspect in equal parts by merging streetwear influences to appease the millennial audience.
Apparel Resources India puts together a collective report on the key details that are a sure shot hit for the upcoming summer season.
Designers and brands are reinstating subtle seduction by adopting the ‘less-is-more’ jargon.
The waist is being highlighted as brands encourage purposeful cut-outs around the midriff area, Dresses emerged as the most popular category for the trend as they went for seductive cuts hinting at skin show on an otherwise fully-covered bodice. Versace and Saint Laurent went for a single cut-out on the waist over calf-length dresses, whilst Bronx and Banco and Off White opted for cut-outs that revealed both sides of the waist.
The detail compliments all body types since it gives an illusion of a more slender form, and works wonders on black! Come summer, the detail is set to cast a breezier impact, and make everything just a tad bit more alluring.
Since decades, corsets have been regarded as symbolic of a very restrictive, feminine figure, forced upon women by societal beauty standards. But contemporary designers of today are taking the detail to a level that speaks about the female body with a bold and empowering edge.
Presented more so as an accessory mimicking a wide belt, corseted details came centre stage as designers took to utilising the fierce detail over millennial and Gen Z approved streetwear looks.
Dramatic shoulders set against structured corset-belts that cinched the waist sparked dialogue at Mugler and Hellessy, whilst Dolce and Gabbana opted for the golden route of pairing the detail over feminine, romantic tulle dresses.
Femininity makes a comeback with ruched detailing for Spring/Summer 2020 as fashion brands turn to gathered detailing to accentuate body forms. Shoulders extending onto sleeves and the bust area emerge as key points of focus, along with ruching extending all the way down the side over body-con dresses. There is no specific placement being followed, rather the focus is on achieving a no-fuss look.
Angel Chen presented the technique over a one-shoulder, thigh-high slit dress while Christian Cowan provided us with a statement on a holographic dress ruched from both sides. Blumarine and Burberry let the technique stand out by incorporating it all-over going from the top to the bottom of figure flattering dresses. This winter, the ruching technique is showing up everywhere from skirts to sleeves, and also serves as a textural detail in some cases. Further detailing includes fraying ropes coming undone out of sequenced gathers.
Baring the neck is in style this season as designers and high fashion labels alike, flaunt collar bones and amplify the shoulders without showing too much skin. Alongside its sister trend of simple-cut outfits, the fashion industry is inclining itself towards adopting the ‘less is more’ concept by opting for off-the-shoulder details on outfits.
Both Carolina Herrera and Alexander McQueen used this detail on short dresses but to different effects – while the former’s outfits presented a romantic vibe with tiered tulle ruffles and pretty pinks, the latter went for a statement in neon green with drooping flouncy sleeves reaching mid-arm.
Bibhu Mohapatra merged draping with architectural tailoring to create an off-shoulder top attached to a sheer long skirt which mimicked a dress.
From diaphanous shirts and dresses, to gauzy skirts and see-through windcheaters, to delicate fabrics like tulle, organza and mesh, S/S ’20 is embracing transparency in a big way.
The international runways saw the inter-mingling of a diverse range of techniques, with few key pieces featuring the fusing of appliqué and embroidered motifs, paired with ruching and gathers.
Valentino and Dior kept in with their romantic and uber feminine sensibilities by embracing whimsical silhouettes in tulle, net and organza, whilst cult favourites like Gucci and Loewe presented looks with a streetwear influence to them.