The recent edition of PV in Paris offered us fabric options pertaining to every category and they were not only plush but also proved to be technically exhilarating. If metallic florals were seen in great volumes with asymmetric pleats, there were also new materials for protection from cold and rain. As several brands increase their demand for personalization in their products, collections touted the raised effect as being one of the most popular trends. Elevated textures were presented through flockings, from diamonds on sequins for womenswear to Prince of Wales checks on super soft wool for menswear, whereas developments included several quilted effects and motifs sewn on the fabrics. Team Fashion Forward Trends brings to you the respective themes that include a multitude of fabrics to fit under each product category…
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TRANSFORMATIVE KNITS
There were a lot of sculptural knits this season, where flatbed knits unfurled all in volume. Sweaters, cardigans, dresses and blousons bet on texture and play on density. Increased volume: gathered thickness and positioned quiltings alter shapes. Knit texture accentuates the volume of a shoulder or a hip; collar or sleeve. Sculpted body: contrasts between fullness and tightness shape the silhouette. Knits trace out the body’s curves, highlighting the waist or bust. Flat draping jerseys team with stretch knits to redraw the physique. Amplified textures: knit fantasy is displayed in 3D, with stitch variations generating inflated bulges. Different types of yarns highlight the raised aspects of the texture. Jacquards create optical illusions. Structuring folds: knits are worked like origami. Cut-out and layered effects, contrasting lengths and asymmetries, foldings and pleats sculpt geometric garments.
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HIGH-FASHION FLARE
Rounded: over-embroidered quiltings and botoxed jacquards to sculpt exceptional blousons and coats. Voluminous pleats: close, finely-grooved pleats to create spectacular shapes and protuberances. Extravagant furs: hairy and frayed, precious and wild, cellophane fake fur, synthetic yeti and disorderly cut-yarns.
BLOSSOMING FLOWERS
Day or night floral jacquards and wintry exotics, spaced-out flowers on twilight grounds, frosty or nocturnal vegetation, luminescent plants in the moonlight. Textured, cloqué, embossed, air-puffed and ultra-tactile bouquets make up this trend.
GOLD RUSH
Neither gold nor silver, surfaces dotted with sparkling reflections and laces with pale glints. Semi-matt laminates, smoothed and opulent metallic curves, glitter and platinum sequins.
WEBBED
Geometric 3D frameworks, thick grid-like guipure, net or linear lace, hypnotic undulations and sine waves.
ADDING UP
Multiplied expertise, added-on finishings and treatments for truly unique results. Needle-punching and jacquards fusing wools and silks, or mohairs and lace. Guipure coated with thick varnish, embroidery adorned in scrapings of precious metals and lace covered in rubber. Prints pile on to jacquard motifs and cut-yarns or hitch a ride on openwork and knits.[/tab]
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COAT-ED
Multiple assemblies: natural bondings, diffuse needle-punchings and decorative quiltings. Fantasy: printed, embroidered, jacquard – digital folklore, rigorous windowpane checks and deliberate stripes. Snug rusticity: brushed blankets, uneven blurriness and coarsely flecked tweeds, in knits and wovens. Voluminous hairies and bouclés: unnatural fake furs, hazy mohairs, fleecy bouclés. Supple additions: fancy-woven or hairy woollens enriched with coatings.
JACKET THIS
Relaxed woollens: tender and puffy – shetlands and tweeds, in softened cotton/wool or wool/linen blends. Less banker, more country: lumberjack-style checks, low-contrast plaids, spaced-out tweeds, blurry semi-plains. Dual personality: bonded combinations of knit and woven, synthetic and natural, techno and tradition. Ultra-substantial cottons: heavy weights with magnified weaves and thick denims.
SUIT UP
Spiffed-up backs: fine double-faces or slim bondings to avoid linings. Smooth, to slide across the skin or brushed to keep warm. Structured lustre: the ultra nobility of silk blends, superfine and naturally shiny wools, the contemporary gleam of chic synthetics. Little graphic patterns: two- and three-tone all-overs, huckabacks, little and mid-size checks.
OF PANTS/CASUAL SKIRTS
Supple thickness: malleable velveties and moleskins, generously brushed-back cottons, stretch and bi-stretch on heavier weights. Cosy cottons: chiné and flannelised, two-tone or vigoureux semi-plain. Printed and yarn-dyed patterns on velvets, brushed cottons or robust denims.
OF DRESSES/WOMEN’S SUITS
Matt synthetics: round suppleness inspired by a scuba-like roundness. Stretch fluidity: knit or woven, with a creamy mattness and slightly thickened.
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PERFORMANT NATURALS
Enhanced wools: more diversity, more nobility! Luxury broadcloths and carded woollens teamed with multi-performant membranes and finishings. Perfectly waterproof combed suitings. Semi-plain or yarn-dyed check aspects, from citywear to outdoors. Functional underwear knits with a touch of wool. Low-profile raincoats: insulating, water-proof cottons and silks, for sturdy trench coats and elegant windbreakers.
WARMING THICKNESS
High-fashion roundness: fancier and more performant quiltings, down-proof featherweights for flawless puffers, scuba and 3D knits. Anti-cold protection: triple-layered with warm/brushed backs, thermal fibres and technologies.
FITNESS/SOFTWEAR
COMFORT: second-skin, breathable, anti-bacterial, fast-dry knits. Polyamide, modal, or bamboo microfibres for an ultra-sensory touch. Bi-stretch wovens, energetic featherweights for light pants and blousons.
COLD METALS
Aluminium surfaces, metallic paper and soft iridescence includes the characteristics and components of these fabrics. They create light-catching wind breakers and parkas that are shiny and reflective in nature.
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[tab title=”TOPS & SHIRTS”]
CHIC SHIRTING
Pixel semi-plains: digital jacquards, end-and-ends, bicolour and tricolour piqués and micro weaves. Miniature figureds: micro dobbies and winks at folklore. Almost-invisible stripes, ultra-fine with discreet weave effects. Refined cosiness: cottons blended with wool or cashmere, micro-emerisings. City prints: small flowers on coloured grounds and three/four-colour interlocked graphics.
CASUAL SHIRTING
Soft paleness: lighter-toned chinés and non-white grounds. Ultra-warm: soft and brushed flanelette, mono or bi-face, extra puffy blanket aspects, for overshirts verging on jackets. Muted multicolour checks: mid-scale handkerchief and tartan plaids, rich, darkened or softened colourways.
KNIT TOPS
Warming: single voiles and jerseys, piqués or little ribs for simple tee-shirts. Lightweight sweaters: delicious fine doubles, spruce two-toned jacquards and slim knits. Ultra-snugly: fleeces for voluminous sweatshirts, very brushed backs or faces, generous boucles. Homewear inspiration: body-skimming softness, super comforting soft fineness, weightless foams.
WINTER DRESSES
Matt haziness: opaque wool voiles and warm gauzes, warmed-up lace and cosy tulle. Raschel lace and openwork. Fine grains: crêpes with neutralised gleam, stretch. Background stories: cardigan knits, thickened fluidity, fine scubas, energetic stretch, crêpes with more substance.
DECORATION TIME
Hand-made patterns: sketches, brush-stroke contours, felt-pen colourways. Random dilutions and marbling. Angular graphics: geometrics in a Cubist-style, or messily scattered. Stylized folk: oriental scarves, Persian rugs and updated tapestries, simplified paisleys, floral mosaics. Floral profusion: generous roses and tulips, distinctly outlined, runny, diluted flowers, traced in ink, bouquets hastily sketched in felt-tip pen.
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