Indian knitting hubs Ludhiana and Tirupur are now seeing the signs of revival.
Ludhiana, the sweater and pullover destination, had witnessed slowdown in business continuously for the last two years because of the increasing length of summer, but in 2012 experienced a turnaround where every company sold out of its inventory. The struggling times for Tirupur market are also seemingly over with many zero discharge water treatment plants running in full capacity addressing the entire need of the industry. Even many of the power plants are under commission, setting the industry on a path to progress again. As a result, in 2011-2012, the value of apparel exports from Tirupur cluster stayed at US $ 2.3 billion, showing no decline compared with previous year’s exports. Coupled with the domestic market, Tirupur accounts for a staggering business of US $ 4.2 billion. Not to be left behind, Ludhiana market touched business worth US $ 0.18 billion in exports and about US $ 1.6 billion in domestic market.
A major concern for Tirupur and Ludhiana has been the consistently increasing business of knitwear, both circular and flat in Bangladesh, but with Bangladesh preferring to do basic knitwear products, India has been successful in positioning itself as the fashion destination for small quantities. Even a T-shirt made in the country has something different to offer in design, fabric, construction and fit.
Though both, Tirupur and Ludhiana, are knitting hubs, there is a striking contrast in the business preferences of both the markets. While Tirupur concentrates on exports, Ludhiana has successfully tapped the growing appetite of Indian domestic market. The difference also lies in the products that are being manufactured. While Tirupur is more into garments like T-shirts, hi-fashion apparel, and more importantly the right amalgamation of knits and woven fabric for kids and ladies wear, Ludhiana’s niche is in winter wear with around 95 per cent of India’s woollen and acrylic knitwear products being produced in Ludhiana. This is not to say that Ludhiana has lost any step in manufacturing of T-shirts, sweat shirts, track suits, etc.
The above factors have an obvious influence on the technologies being utilized by both the markets. Tirupur’s requirement is mainly single and double jersey fabric for knitwear and therefore the focus is on circular knitting machines. Mayer & Cie, Santoni, Terrot, PaiLung are some of the popular brands very much in use in Tirupur. Whereas, in Ludhiana, it is the flat knitting machines of Chinese origin and the local brands like Omex, Mastana, Apex, Vishwakarma are immensely popular. Interestingly, the market for manual flat knitting is fast becoming extinct, thanks to the scarcity of workers and rising wages, allowing for indigenously developed semi-automatic flat knitting machines to capture the market. Such semi-automatic machines come at a nominal cost of under US $ 3,693 and can give a daily production of 20 kg while knitting at 14-16 gauge, thus these machines are the choice of many if the requirement is just for ribs, collars and panels with minimal design features.
The market is maturing fast and is investing in fully computerized flat knitting machines with single, double or triple system for increased productivity. These machines are ideal to manufacture fashioned sweaters and pullovers in various design techniques like Jacquard, Intarsia and Transfer. Companies like Shima Seiki and Stoll are considered best in the lot while Cixing, Xi, Zingmei, Kauo Heng are the Chinese and Taiwanese alternatives.
Added to these are warp knitting machines which are used in manufacturing fabrics like Rachel knits (Powernet and some waffle – surface knit thermal underwear fabrics), tricot (silky nightgown fabric), and Milanese knits. Such machines are being extensively used for manufacturing blankets in Panipat and Amritsar. Jacob Muller, Karl Mayer, Comez are some of the premier warp knitting machine manufacturers.
Today the buzz in the market is also for the sinker free circular knitting machines, which have a reduced sized sinker. Though the technology is quite old, only lately it has caught the attention of industry stalwarts. This machine leaves no mark on finer fabrics and such a sinker creates much less friction, hence ensuring minimal power consumption. Santoni’s Atlas HS, which was displayed at KnitTech, Tirupur, utilizes this technology.
With increasing input costs, the industry is gradually realizing the need to go for better machines with minimum downtime, increased speed and offer versatility to create many designs.
There are many productivity and quality improvement tools that are integral to the machine. While the in-built cleaning fans and suction pumps get rid of the lint generated through the use of low quality yarns, standard feeders ensure tensionless feeding of the yarn at constant speed; pressure oilers ensure even oil distribution over the entire circumference of cylinder, thereby no streaking takes place due to excess oil; optical needle sensor immediately detects broken or damaged needles and stops the machine; fabric scanner detects both holes and needle line faults and stops the knitting machine following an error message; and finally yarn meter can measure yarn consumption. If the above productivity improvement tools do not come with the machine, these can be bought separately from companies like Memminger-Iro.
At the recently held KnitTech (Tirupur) and KnitWorld (Ludhiana), numerous options for all the discussed technologies were on display. Following is a glimpse of some of them:
Circular knitting machines
Batliboy exhibits Mayer & Cie Relanit 3.2 II for high speed performance on both cotton and synthetic yarns Relanit 3.2 II is an ideal machine for single jersey, 4 needle structures and single jersey plated fabric. The machine is ideal for processing both cotton and synthetic yarns, whilst still maintaining its renowned high level of performance in productivity. The machine works on Relanit technology where there are fewer deflection points for the yarn in the stitch forming zone, half from the usual number of deflection points in other machines, thus subjecting the yarn to less strain.
Gentle stitch formation, short needles and a flat cam angle enable higher speeds in continuous operation. With the high speed kit (option), the full output of 45 RPM in continuous operation can even be used with elastomer plating. However, in case of open width, 40 RPM will be achieved.
Relanit technology developed for this machine by Mayer & Cie. serves to reduce stress on the thread in the stitch forming zone. The relative movement of sinkers to needles halves the deflection points for the thread, and so places substantially less strain on the yarn. The result is reduced incidences of faults in the fabric, greater productivity as a result of fewer downtimes, reliable processing of less even yarn qualities, a higher working speed, optimum fabric quality, particularly in the case of plated fabrics using elastomer yarns. The open-width take-down systems from Relanit, achieves up to 40 RPM in continuous operation both in the mechanical and the electronic version. New drive systems, special inverters, internally developed and modified software, a speed-controlled braking system and suitably designed take-down bearings are some of the additions for the ground-breaking new standards set by Mayer & Cie. open-width devices.
Fukuhara emphasizes on energy efficiency in MXC-E5RE
MXC-E5RE from Fukuhara is a 5 feeders/inch “Super Multi-feeder” single-knit machine. The increased number of feeders (approx. 1.6 times of the conventional 3SRE or S3.2RE models) makes this model onto a highly productive raceway machine. The required amount of basic fabrics can be knitted in much shorter time, resulting in less electric energy consumption. Super multi-feeders allow knitting of feeder stripe patterns having larger pattern repeats. The machine is equipped with motorized automatic take-up unit ACT-6 having reduced weight and improved maintainability, thus take-up rolls can now be exchanged more easily.
[bleft]Though both, Tirupur and Ludhiana, are knitting hubs, there is a striking contrast in the business preferences of both the markets. While Tirupur concentrates on exports, Ludhiana has successfully tapped the growing appetite of Indian domestic market. [/bleft]
The “3-race monolithic closed cam system” of MXC E5RE for the cylinder significantly improves the cam fitting accuracy and reduces the time required for cam exchange. Optional cams for knitting different fabric structures such as pique, inlay, are available. The reduced number of cams due to monolithic construction allows speedy pattern change.
The machine uses a combination of “E-NEEDLE”, a patent protected needle technology on which the shapes of the main body and rear area have been modified to reduce the amount of contact with the cylinder slot ; and “E-CYLINDER” which ensures frictionless needle exchange, to achieve reduced heat generation, less machine operating load, as well as energy saving.
ICC showcases single jersey knitting machines ES11-3 from Pilotelli
ES11-3 from Pilotelli is a single jersey 4 track knitting machine designed around the concept of production reliability and user-friendliness. This low maintenance machine can work from 14 gauge to 30 gauge. The machine is equipped with group of the positive storage feeders which take motion directly from the cylinder ring without unwanted movements. The machine head is illuminated by high efficiency and low consumption fluorescent lights. The Oil-Air Mist Automatic system for lubrication and an automatic cleaning system device is also present to minimize the thread breakage and improve productivity. There is a rare “morning timer” that prevents the machine from starting up at maximum speed before a warming up cycle. There is an electronic yarn consumption measuring device, up to 5 tracks. Immense emphasis is given to safety while designing this machine. It comes with CE compliant protection gates for maximum operator safety, i.e. the machine cannot be operated until gates are completely closed.
Santoni introduces sinker less circular knitting machine HS-Atlas
HS-Atlas from Santoni is a single jersey high-speed machine for producing jersey, piquet and mock interlock. The fabric is produced without sinkers, thus the stitch formation is not distorted by any mechanical movement and the risk of any sinker line in the fabric is totally absent. The machine is equipped with special holding-down jacks (patented by Santoni) which allow working at full feeds and making the knitting re-start fast and easy after a fabric press-off. Machine can be equipped with 2 cam tracks and with devices for elastomeric knitting on all feeds. There is a single cam box per feeder, with exchangeable cams and the yarn carriers are with dark zirconium head.
ATE demonstrates cost-efficient knitting solution from Tayu
[bleft]Manual flat knitting is fast becoming extinct in Ludhiana, thanks to the scarcity of workers and rising wages, allowing for indigenously developed semi-automatic flat knitting machines to capture the market. Such semi-automatic machines come at a nominal cost of under Rs. 2 lakh and can give a daily production of 20 kg while knitting at 14-16 gauge, thus these machines are the choice of many if the requirement is just for ribs, collars and panels with minimal design features. [/bleft]
Tayu Knitting Machinery Company, founded in Taipei, Taiwan in 1975, has dedicated itself to the research and development and manufacture of knitting machines for hi-tech fabrics. With an annual output of more than 800 knitting machines, the company is happy to present its latest single knit electronic control 4/6 colours auto striper knitting machine. The machine ‘Tayu’ comes with a striper yarn storage feeder as standard, also with an option for same from Memminger-Iro (Germany). The frame is E type with 2-way take down with positive drive and folding device. The machine can work from 24 gauge to 28 gauge, in a diameter between 30’’ to 34’’, and has a 4/6 colour yarn selection control system.
Flat knitting machines
Janaksons exhibits Shima Seiki’s SSR series, a merger of ace technology and speed
Shima Seiki’s SSR inherits the know-how and experience that Shima Seiki has accumulated over the years as the leading manufacturer of computerized flat knitting machines. Productivity is increased with a maximum knitting speed of 1.2 metres per second, as well as with the R2CARRIAGE System that achieves quicker carriage returns. It also carries proven Shima Seiki technology such as renowned Digital Stitch Control System (DSCS), spring-loaded Full-Sinker System, Stitch Presser, Yarn Gripper and Cutter and Takedown Comb.
The, first ever digital stitch device DSCS can be programmed with the desired loop length after which it monitors yarn consumption continuously and adjusts yarn feed and tension to yield consistency throughout the fabric to within a remarkable ±1% tolerance. The result is quality control that is essential to shaping and integral garment production.
The SV variant of SSR offers wide gauge capability that allows a variety of gauges to be knit on a single machine. This allows the freedom to handle changing seasons and shifting trends without investing in a machine for every gauge or resorting to the complex, time-consuming task of gauge conversion.
[bleft]The market is maturing fast and is investing in fully computerized flat knitting machines with single, double or triple system for increased productivity. These machines are ideal to manufacture fashioned sweaters and pullovers in various design techniques like Jacquard, Intarsia and Transfer. Companies like Shima Seiki and Stoll are considered best in the lot while Cixing, Xi, Zingmei, Kauo Heng are the Chinese and Taiwanese alternatives. [/bleft]
SSR’s patented takedown comb employs a row of special forward-facing setup needles with an active release mechanism for consistent quality and complete, reliable, snag-free fabric release. The patented stitch presser system features a special motor-driven system which allows the pressers to carry out individual on/off adjustments in both knit and transfer, in either course direction. These pressers are able to hold down fabric gently for improved consistency and control, contributing significantly to quality shaping. Spring-type sinkers operate full-time regardless of carriage position, and provide gentle hold down movement, realizing significant improvement in quality and texture for complicated three-dimensional fabrics.
The machine’s unique yarn gripper and cutter system consists of two yarn grippers and one yarn cutter that work in precise coordination with each other. Since the gripper and cutter are separate units, they can be independently activated to delay cutting while holding, or perform holding alone. Space efficiency is improved during installation by integrating the fabric collection tray with the machine frame. The network connector is repositioned on the side of the controller for easier access when performing production data management with Shima Network Solutions. The USB interface is also positioned directly below the control monitor for improved access in data exchange.
KP Exim presents solutions from sister companies, Cixing and Steiger
Since its acquisition by Cixing, Steiger has shifted its manufacturing base to China, allowing them to be more cost-competitive in the market although the machines are still being designed in Switzerland. Cixing and Steiger, even though from the same group, are still being promoted and distributed as separate entities; Steiger machines cater to high-end and quality products, with its expertise in Intarsia knitting, while Cixing is more for mass production users.
HP series from Cixing is of single carriage and double system models. The model is equipped with advanced devices of yarn cutting and comb. By segment control, one can adjust roller speed, to meet a variety of different fabric take-down needs. With the new control system, the machine may be used to process 16 yarn carriers pattern automatically. The machine has Dynamic Stitch function, which allows modifying the stitch tension of the fabric during the same row of pattern and Dynamic Speed function that makes possible the machine carriage speed-changing in the same row of the pattern, thereby reducing the production time by 20%.
With new control system, it is possible to interconnect machines, and further connect them with the server. In this way, it is possible to |share the pattern files and visualize a report for the production control.
Gemini 2.130 from Steiger is a compact machine to knit panels, fully fashion and shaped garments, jacquard and stitch structure combinations. The machine comes with one open carriage with two systems and full three-way-technique performing variable intelligent course upon a needle bed width of 130 cm. The yarn feeding is direct on an open carriage with 8 yarn-carriers. The machine is available in gauges from E5 to E18/20 and can also be available in Free-gauge version (variable gauge), 7 and 14.
This single head machine is without cam carriage bridge, with direct yarn feeding from the top. The working width is 130 cm and the machine is equipped with grooved retracted transfer needles. The front needle bed is fixed with 6 yarn clamps/scissors on the right hand side and 2 on the left hand side. The entire sets of 8 yarn-carriers are present with direct feeding.
The needle selection is electronic. There are unlimited patterning possibilities due to three-way-technique and integrated function for split-stitches. Shaping is done by stitch transfer of press-off method. The memory capacity of the machine is 40 MB.
As a security feature, all necessary devices stop the machine in case of yarn breakage, knots, shock, over-heating of motors, fabric press-off, etc.
Kauo Heng knitting machines, promising quality with cost efficiency
KH-224 from Kauo Heng is a computerized flat knitting machine for knitting sweaters. This double system twin carriage machine comes with three-way knitting technique and transfer with split function. The gauge can vary from 3G to 14G, with the knitting width of 90’’ or 100’’. The machine comes with electronic top tension device, 16 yarn carriers on 4 double rails; auto yarn feed unit, and a racking system run by servo motor and high precision ball screw system.
KH-112 is a computerized full jacquard flat knitting machine for knitting collars. The machine has a segmented needle bed, designed for high speed and easy replacement in the event of accidental damage, also equipped shock sensor stop motion device. This double system machine comes with option of going from 7 gauge to 16 gauge in knitting, with the width options being 60’’ and 80’’. The knitting speed can go up to 1.2 m/sec.
Golden Falcon ties up with Zoje to introduce flat knitting machines as Zoje-Falcon
ZJC-312PC/P from Zoje Falcon is a fully automatic computerized flat knitting machine with single carriage double system, applying digital technology to achieve transfer, tuck, intarsia without dotted line, jacquard, apparent shape, hidden shape and other regular pattern knitting functions. The machine can knit basic organizations and irregular multi-colour jacquard, twist flowers weft organization. The machine can use pure silk, mix silk, synthetic, wool, acrylic, mixed fibre, to knit readymade cardigans, scarf, cap and accessories of cloth.
The single bridge structure of the machine makes carriage more portable, reducing knitting error caused by carriage inertia while knitting. The yarn carriers are ultra thin with simple structure and can achieve the abdication dependent on self elasticity during the crossing in moving process to ensure machine running. The sinkers are driven by stepping motor to ensure the accurate movements. The machine is also equipped with brand new control system by Hengqiang, which has numerous functions and gives a stable performance. Also provided is the emergency switch to stop the machine in emergency, along with an adjustable touch-tone spring, that can stop the machine on yarn breakage.
