Introduced on 5th July, an EU proposal mandates a transformative shift for fashion companies, as they will now be obligated to finance the collection, sorting, and recycling of textile waste, marking a notable departure from previous practices.
This obligation will be implemented across EU countries through harmonised Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes, which will be made mandatory at the national level through the proposed revision of the EU’s Waste Framework Directive.
Zero Waste Europe appreciates producer accountability but worries about a lengthy transition period leading to textile disposal, while environmental groups criticise the proposal’s focus on end-of-life waste management, neglecting the significant environmental impact of the production phase.
Theresa Mörsen from Zero Waste Europe commented, “While the EU’s aim to enhance garment durability is a positive initial measure, it overlooks the reality that production is primarily influenced by fast fashion trends and aggressive marketing, rather than the necessity to replace damaged clothing.”
According to her, the directive should have included waste prevention targets for textiles, aiming to reduce the initial waste generated. Additionally, Mörsen argued for a revision of the eco-modulation of Extended Producer Responsibility fees to incentivise improved product design rather than functioning as a “fee producers ‘pay to pollute’.”
However, Janek Vähk from Zero Waste Europe emphasises that the EU’s progress towards achieving a circular economy has been insufficient. He emphasises the need for more immediate action to address the pressing challenges at hand.
