From exposed shoulders to see-through gowns, the Spring of 2014 offered some revealing looks for the summer months, as transparency, witnessed its biggest fashion moment, from wholesome sheer separates to sheer inserts, the possibilities realized were endless. With fabrics like lace, mesh and organza being a favourite of designers, they moulded the demure into the daring – ranging from decorative florals to sporty luxe. Moving a season ahead, Fall ’14 introduced traces of work on sheer and Resort ’15 has picked this trend up in a big way. While the trend translates well on the runway, AO investigated how exporters and buyers were translating transparency to a more wearable trend for the fashionable consumer…
Sheer fabrics and Spring/Summer are a ‘must have’ combination. Sheer was shown in abundance, on the 2014 runways, everything from silks to chiffons to gauze. While Vera Wang layered her colourful sheer fabric looks for a summer chic look, JW Anderson created some interesting folk style sheer maxi dresses with elasticized bands. For evening attire, one could take inspiration from Tom Ford with his stunning long dresses. Balenciaga, Nina Ricci and Calvin Klein went for a minimalist approach by opting for white sheer separates layered simplistically. “There has been an increased demand for georgette and chiffon tops and tunics, some buyers ask for the pieces with lining, others without it – they arrange for the inner or spaghetti on their own,” shares Vinod Mongia, Director, Manya Creations highlighting the demand for his sheer pieces.
Then there is the use of sheer panelling instead of the full garment to completely avoid the hassle of layering. Sheer panels’ versatility knows no bounds, thanks to the creative minds of Erdem, Prabal Gurung, Christopher Kane and Mulberry. From typical horizontal sheers to dropped-waist sheers for the illusion of floating hemlines and varying opaque material used which range from lace, neoprene to brocade. The sheer panels subtly infuse a tinge of playfulness with an ounce of seriousness – when the garment is kept to a minimal. Jitin Pal Singh, Director, Nancy Krafts Pvt. Ltd. shares that panelling has been a key trend for his company over the years. “We do sheer inserts but with polyester georgettes and other combinations which are transparent. This is not new for us, we have been doing this for a long time and even though transparency is in, all our buyers usually they still ask for lining underneath the garment,” informs Jitin.
Sheer skirts were quite a rage for spring. From Fendi to Burberry Prorsum, designers dared to bare, showing breezy, below-the-knee iterations in soft colours. Manya Creations is glued onto this trend and is using sheer panels on tiered skirts and dresses, mostly tube dresses which are body hugging. Oscar de la Renta and Jason Wu carried on this skirt trend to the fall season too.
Manya Creations is glued onto this trend and is using sheer panels on tiered skirts and dresses, mostly tube dresses
Floaty, light and perfect for spring, sheer inserts were all-over the runway and the most popular fabrics used were not net and georgettes but mesh, lace and organza. They instantly added character to the garment. The influence of 90’s sportswear was clear from many designers, especially from the use of excessive mesh. But breaking away from traditional perception, the fabric made its way into mainstream fashion. It was definitely used for sweatshirts, baggy sweaters, T-shirts and overcoats, subverting the usual uses of the fabric, but also on skirts, evening dresses, crop tops and slithering skirts. Cut outs, mesh panels and sheer fabrics were seen at JW Anderson, Anthony Vaccarello, Christian Dior and Alexander Wang. Even Vera Wang picked up mesh with chiffon to add a touch of sport in her decidedly elegant collection. Apparently, a secretively revealing suggestion of skin is much more sartorially liberating than baring all. Himank Shah, Merchandiser, Paras Industries talking about the fabric says, “Yes we have used mesh extensively on ladies tops and dresses for panelling such as, on the front patch, chest area, back panel or mid-riff.” The trend is popular not only on the runways, but also with the exporters and out of all the exporters we spoke to, mesh seemed to be the most popular in demand from the buyers, for trims on sleeves or shoulders or back detailing. “We are doing transparent fabrics this time in organza separates – tops and dresses,” shares Hemant Lalwani, Owner, Lalwani International.
Fendi layered an organza evening coat whereas, Erdem put out a Jasmine organza top and skirt. Julien David mixed silk to his organza tank top and Giambattista Valli went a step further to include floral embroidery on his version. Coming to lace, which was only credited as a trim detail in the past, is now being used on the entire garment. Lace was officially one of the most tweeted terms over Fashion Week. Burberry Prorsum’s catwalk featured tailored spider webs of lace in every way possible, from all-over pastel blue and lilac delicate lace dresses to sheer candy floss pink lace pencil skirts to lace blouses.
Tom Ford went for boudoir and vintage-inspired versions by showing a daring lace ensemble with black barely there lace in a 3-piece. Dolce & Gabbana pleased us with a statement pleated sleeves teamed with high-waist hot pants and bandeau, all laced up. Like heroines of the Romantic poets, the girls at Isabel Marant, Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci drifted down the runway in ethereal lace.
Well-placed details kept the looks modest, in a subtle play of hide and seek. Chloe presented her interpretation with laser cut lace and Peter Pilotto, House of Holland and Meadham Kirchoff embraced the feminine side of the fabric too. Himank says they make use of crochet lace for transparency, while Hemant states how they are manufacturing full lace silhouettes. Bharat Bulani, Merchandising Manager, Super Fashion shares with us how he is using the delicate fabric a little differently. “We are doing transparent sheer fabrics this time for tops in mesh fabric and incorporating lace for embroidery on mesh and mesh inserts. We are into knits so we have mostly used these transparent fabrics for panelling,” says Bharat.
Work on sheer was another favourite of the season, where delicate floral prints and embroidery were the most popular embellishments to brighten up the sheer fabrics seen at Burberry, Matthew Williamson, Elie Saab and Topshop Unique. This trend didn’t end with spring; it was simply revamped for winter. Affixing sequin to sheer separates and embroidery in coloured and metallic versions set the norm. Another element that has been used is satin or velvet fabric, on georgettes, chiffons or lace surfaces.
While House of Holland went for a glamorous appeal with a long dress splashed with multi-coloured sequin in an architectural pattern, Jonathan Saunders surprised with a merger of satin cut-outs and floral patterned black lace. Erdem used sequin and droplet beads on a sultry black sheer dress and Jason Wu went forth and reinterpreted sassy work wear with velvet used sparingly on a sheer formal top. Sharing their thoughts on the trend, Bharat says they use embroidery and handwork on mesh, Hemant opts for crystal embroidery, thread embroidery, aari embroidery and both, Vinod and Jitin stick to beadwork and sequin on nets, either affixed from a machine or by hand.
The intricate detailing, fluid silhouettes and the sheerness all make for a perfect arrangement for the summer and the trend seems to be going strong in all the Resort 2015 collections including that of Ralph Lauren, Burberry Prorsum, Chanel, Christian Dior, Alberta Ferretti, Elie Saab and a countless more, which proves the permanence of sheer.
