The runways are becoming more about the masses every season which is emblematic of the hike in spending power the consumers are now enjoying. As fashion becomes for all, the silhouettes this year observed a relaxed, comfortable form, which was beautifully balanced with splendid, extravagant detailing to create ensembles that had best of the runway and ready-to-wear.
Legacy luxury houses such as Chanel and Versace followed the steps of the newer counterparts like Balmain and Off-White to imbibe street silhouettes such as bicycle shorts and blazer dresses in their collections for Spring/Summer’19. Edited.com reported an increase of about 73 per cent in the number of new bicycle short garments in the US market alone. These trends are now being followed religiously by mass brands as well as by retailers such as Zara, which recorded an increase of 30 per cent in the number of blazer dress styles in its recent collections. On the contrary, S/S’19 will also observe some silhouettes seeking haven in exaggeration as bold shoulders and statement sleeves are on the radar for the coming season.
Details were taken a notch higher to address the demand that simpler silhouettes and fabric entail as sequins, feathers, fishnets and fringes were the magic words for the designers on the runways. This opulence will definitely inspire the ready-to-wear shelves to be stocked with such details to ramp up the dresses from ordinary to occasion.
Here is our take on the direction the details and silhouettes will take for Spring/Summer 2019.
On Our Bike
No longer a source of cringe, the longer lengths on shorts were the go-to for all designers this season and are projected to be one of the most popular trends of Spring/Summer 2019. The trend trickled down from runways to the red carpet and finally onto the ready-to-wear hangers faster than the sneaker revolution as they struck the sweet spot between comfort streetwear and high-fashion formals.
With Chanel’s tailored biker shorts in corduroys paired against long button-downs, along with Fendi’s earthy Rexene utility shorts paired against crisp shirts and PVC jackets, shorts were seen in a variety of looks more suitable than the staple lycra options being retailed right now. Be it casual denims, formal linen, dressy silks, or simply popping scubas, bicycle shorts will be in for S/S’19 like never before.
Slittin’ it up
Move over flares, there’s a new detail in town. Designers and high fashion brands alike have submitted to their scissors to come up with a new trend for 2019 a.k.a. slit details over bottoms. Denims, trousers, pants, cargo pants, corduroy pants, sequined pants, printed pants – they all have a sombre ounce of skin show this summer.
Cut vertically from the bottom a la Chloé, Akris and Ashish, horizontally over thighs or knees at Aalto, or all the way up till the thighs as at Balmain, Chanel and Bevza, its certain that this detail is here to stay.
Statement Sleeves, Bolder Shoulders
The rules of dressing the modern woman are changing and nothing shouts ‘power’ better than bold shoulders and statement sleeves. The sleeves were exaggerated in volume or length, or completely transformed with usage of heavy trims such as leather belts or glamourising fabrics such as sequins and neons. Boxed away from the body or structured enough to support the garment without any sleeves, shoulders are the elements being used by designers to transform a simple garment like a shirt to a complete runway outfit.
The trend was taken a notch higher with two Big Bs of progressive fashion- Balenciaga, with blazers that adorned sleeves thrice the size of the garments and Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain, with its shimmer and sequined dresses and suit sets highlighting structured circular sleeves and broad rectangular shoulders. Rodarte went for shorter, flounce sleeves while Elie Saab, Acne Studios and Dries Van Noten went for the longer lengths.
Dressing with Blazer
Pushing aside the Autumn/Winter 2018 trend of smart dresses, the edgier versions of blazer dresses will shine through this season, an inevitable change adding to the much-hyped trend of unconventional, revamped suiting.
In shining sequins, simple stripes, bright polka dots, or simply crisp solids, the blazer dress trend was a recurring sight on the runways for S/S’19. Luxury giants such as Balmain, Alexander Wang and Tom Ford went for the iconic black blazer dress look with power shoulders and standout lapels, while occasionwear ostentatious fabrics paired against tights were Chanel and Givenchy’s verdict of the trend. Jacquemus’ popping bright monochrome dresses and Miu Miu’s large floral fabric appliques showed the casual side of the trend while Burberry’s crisp white belted blazer dresses gave a formal twist to the dresses.
An evergreen trend that can glamourise a jute sack too, sequins and embellishments are still in the details radar for Spring/Summer 2018 as the ‘Big and Opulent’ fashion is making a return, sweeping the ’90s minimalism aside. Sequins this season would be big yet lighter in tones with shapes such as large circular discs and long fringed beads in iridescent, sheer copper and metallic hues.
Sticking to their signature of being extravagant on runway, Altuzarra, Alexander McQueen and Alexa Chung went for all-over sequins either through sequined coordinated sets, embroidered floral motifs or McQueen’s sensational sheer jewelled eveningwear. Ashish went for bolder choices with sequined intimatewear paired with hoodies and jogger pants while Balmain, Chanel and Chloé went for minimal sequins patches and corsets.
Fringed and Long
Nostalgia is not a novel inspiration for designers as many took the runways to bring back the dramatic ’70s putting fringed details on the grid. Either as an extension to statement sleeves, or hanging from the waist as a bold belt detail, right to hanging from the helm of longer skirts and higher boots, fringes are definitely a value addition that Spring/Summer 2019 garments will flaunt.
In materials such as ropes, crochets, satins, faux fur and leather, fringes were seen like never before: Ainer went for multiple smaller fringe patches in neon colours; Altuzarra added fringes to elevate mediocre long coats; Longchamp and Calcaterra kept the animal instinct alive with fringed outfits in fine threads and earthy tones, while bigwigs like Oscar De La Renta and Tom Ford went for all-fringe gowns and skirts.
It could be stated that feathers are to S/S’19, what sequins have been for F/W’18. It’s no surprise therefore why feathers are on the radar yet again. These light details have the ability to instantly amp up any silhouette from drab to glam.
This time around though, the difference lies in the fact that these details are shifting from the confined realms of couture, and subtle transitioning into day-to-day dressing. Given that eveningwear is one of the fastest growing categories, and whimsical elements such as feathers, sequins and crystals are all in high demand. Bigwigs like Emporio Armani, Burberry, Marc Jacobs and Loewe, among others, have pledged their allegiance to this fray-away detail for the season by incorporating into exaggerated necklines, extended shoulder bases, embellished waist belts or chunky outerwear.
Netted to Perfection
Lying on the lines of modernist boho-hippie, emerged the trend of netting this season, making a strong comeback from the ’60s. With the rising penchant for the beach babe look, designers used netting of differently coloured yarns in different sizes to create body accentuating dresses, jumpsuits, tops and cover-ups over basic ensembles.
Fish nets were layered over different dresses from vacation to work outfits with value addition of beadings and feathered appliques. Christian Dior’s collection stood out for this trend with top-to-toe net outfits in varying looseness of the yarn, while Altuzarra’s embellished net cover-ups gave the perfect direction for eveningwear on a beach. With Burberry’s fishnet top-layered looks, J.W. Anderson’s netted overalls, Dolce & Gabbana’s eveningwear net dresses over co-ordinated intimatewear, the options to explore are numerous for this trend in S/S’19.