Fall 2026 is the season when the fabric does the talking. From floral silk faille to tapestry-print jacquard, lavish textiles return, with the evening jacket as the lead silhouette. Ralph Lauren and Dries Van Noten with making the strongest case. Ralph Lauren’s Brandey Convertible Silk-Faille Jacket and Dries Van Noten’s Floral Jacquard Jacket set the luxury benchmark, while Reformation’s Matilda Faux Fur Trim Jacket carries the mood to a more accessible shelf.
What these pieces share is permanence. A jacket in woven silk or jacquard is meant to outlast a season, which is the logic Indian textile houses have long worked from.
The clearest Indian expression of that idea is Mayyur Girotra’s The Collectables. Series Two restores vintage Kutch Rabari and Banarasi textiles and joins them with Zardozi, Resham and appliqué, and its statement vintage jacket layers heritage textiles and borders in powder pink, peach and burgundy. Series One turned a vintage Pashtun embroidered textile, layered with Kutch shoof work, into a trench coat. Girotra’s stated principle is that whatever is made today should be an heirloom for tomorrow.
The weaving houses make the same argument through the cloth itself. Tilfi, based in Banaras, says its family has preserved the weaving tradition for over five decades and that it makes heirlooms rather than just clothes. Ekaya Banaras offers a pink satin-silk jacket handwoven in the Banarasi tanchoi technique, with zari and embroidery, paired with matching pants. Advaya’s Eternal Series reworks Kanjivaram with organza and the khadva technique into seasonless pieces designed as future heirlooms. In each case the opulence is built into the textile and not added on top.
Brocade is also moving into everyday cuts. Kalki Fashion’s olive green Banarasi bomber jacket in embroidered brocade comes with a V-neck shirt and wide-leg trousers. Raisin’s Aika collection offers jacquard Banarasi brocade blazer sets and A-line jackets with trousers, while Gg by Asha Gautam’s white-and-gold Banarasi brocade jacket, in silk with gold and silver zari, comes with a matching bustier and pants. Onaya’s dusky blue brocade zardosi jacket set, Sobariko’s purple raw silk brocade tube jacket set and Arab Crab’s blue embroidered brocade jacket set push the silhouettes further.
The common thread is provenance. “Heirloom” is the shared vocabulary on both sides of this trend. Indian brands that can show where a cloth was woven, and by whom, hold the strongest claim to it.
