“What just happened?” was precisely my train of thought while exiting the final show on the final day of Amazon India Fashion Week S/S 2018. This time around, it seemed different and unfathomable in more ways than one.
Each season brings with it a preconceived idea regarding what the main conversation surrounding pre-show, post-show, and in-between shows would be. This season though, there was an uncanny void in the air.
An all-time low for designers in attendance, a noticeable absence of buyers and an overall overcast spell caused by lack of fashion influencers and bloggers might be the reasons behind this seemingly off vibe.
Blame it on the political, social and terror-induced dogma prevalent around the globe currently, or the after-shocks of demonetisation on the economy, an omnipresent lull dominated the scene.
Runways seemed to cling on to trends from preceding seasons – a special mention can be made here for the overdone androgynous and flared silhouettes that seem to have become a uniform staple that designers swear by for promised commercial successes.
Sheer and transparent fabrics came out as the star materials, while satin stood out as the most desired evening/cocktail wear number. An interesting tilt towards accessories within collections was observed this time around – a big shout-out to leather backpacks and Balenciaga look-alike shopping bags.
In addition, designers were found taking a risky route by wading away from traditional designs towards a more global and cosmopolitan mindset at the showcases of designers such as Sulakshana Monga and Payal Pratap.
Modernism met wearability with a pinch of layering at young bloods, Dhruv Kapoor and Huemn’s presentations; whilst Shivan & Narresh, Hemant & Nandita and Suneet Varma showcased dream-worthy silhouettes that oozed femininity over floor-length gowns, bespoke dresses and flouncy jumpsuits.
At a conjunction of time when the concept of seasons seems more of a thing of the past than ever before, we found ourselves amongst a marine of traditional Indian techniques accentuated with modern aesthetics. Designers seem to be tapping on the increasing receptivity and acceptability of Indian masses towards international thought forms and trends by presenting sell-worthy pieces possessing a shorter shelf-life.
But just as we were about to file away AIFW S/S ’18 under a ho-hum stance, things turned around for the better.
At the final showcase, Amazon Fashion along with designers Rina Dhaka, Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, Ashish N Soni, Krishna Mehta and Pankaj & Nidhi unveiled the exclusive ‘See Now Buy Now’ concept for their Indian Prêt collections.
Five capsule collections with six statement pieces each by the aforementioned designers were made instantly shoppable right off the runway at the recently launched The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in. This is just a stepping stone in leveraging investments in technology and infrastructure to meet the aspirational demands for instant gratification of consumers the is at an all-time high.
In another angle, the street style scene experienced a definite low as a little birdie told us that, limited invitations have been extended to bloggers and guests this season. But, the former made up for it by showing up in on-trend pieces such as blazers, frayed denim looks, checkered prints and jackets/bombers with back detailing… It seems that as the ease of e-commerce and entrance of international brands in India increases, so does the adaptability and openness of its takers.
A question that remains unanswered right now is where do we stand on the border of tradition and global appeal? – it takes time to adjust to something new, but with the Indian fashion industry evolving at such a fast pace, is our authenticity which lies at the heart of conventionality, in danger of being wiped out?
if so, then by when and to what extent, or will the younger blood surprise us by conjuring awe-inspiring mergers between the two worlds?
A mystery which only time can reveal best…
