by Anjori Grover Vasesi
11-October-2018 | 5 mins read
The sun has risen on the first day of the Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week, Spring Summer 2019 edition.
Contrary to last season, the hustle bustle was at a lively junction as guests swarmed the venue in fashion forward looks.
The week opened with a debut presentation by Pero, who took us underwater, capturing the richness of underwater landscapes. Woven in different parts of India like West Bengal, Madhya Pradesh, Bhagalpur, and Banaras, the collection features versatile pieces with Aneeth’s signature gingham, plaids and tartans inspired by old luxurious French Brocade.
A new collaboration between the Govt. of India and the Australian High Commission in India introduced 5 Australian designer collections created with Indian hand loom textiles. The project, under Artisans of Fashion supports the ongoing cultural and trade relationship in the fashion and textile industries of both countries.
By promoting handloom, natural fibres, and the traditional artisan techniques the project aims to facilitate ethical work practices and positive change, reducing the environmental and social impact of the fast fashion industry.
Read ahead to find out the top designers who stood out on Day 1 of LMIFW SS’19.
The queen of fabric manipulation is back this season with a new take on surface texture and re-engineered fabrics, for Spring/Summer 2019. Rimzim Dadu set on an explorative path to the relationship between positive and negative spaces. Traditional techniques of lace-making and stencilling her signature materials such as hand made chiffon cords, metallic cords and metal wires come into play over sculptural silhouettes.
The standout of the show includes a collaboration between the designer and Harshvardhan Kadam of Inkbrushnme and an interactive experience technology studio – Digital Jalebi, which explores the intersections where fashion, art and technology collide.
This is communicated via virtual reality to create an immersive art experience. While the artist uses the virtual world as his canvas to interpret Dadu’s collection with Google Tilt Brush, the audience gets a real time view of every brush stroke made in the air being reflected on huge walls.
Pattern play and uber street come to life in Huemn’s SS’19 collection. Inspired by the cultural and socio-economic situation of conflict-ridden Kashmir, the label presented a range influenced by the city’s raw beauty and it’s youth.
Multidimensional clothing infused with comic book prints, cut out and spliced details, and athletic-street wear aesthetics translate into a playful, fierce and modern, urban aesthetic.
Day dresses, oversized sweaters, statement t-shirts and luxe athleisure make up the collection in fabrications such as cottons, knits, summer leather, and denim.
“At some point in your life, this statement will be true: tomorrow you will lose everything forever.” – Charles Wu
Inspired by the city of dreams – Mumbai itself, the collection taps on a dialogue emphasising the depth and expanse of the mega city. Right from the chawls to sky scrapers, and the gazillion dreams perched between these two opposites- it aims to reflect and translate a feeling.
A muted palette of whites, creams and delicate pinks come alive over free flowing silhouettes that play on fall and drape techniques. Tissue and organza introduce an element of transparency, whilst surface embroideries depict architectural references taken from the rich history available in the South of Bombay.
The designer aims to capture the vast variety of ‘Bombay’, in a panoramic view of himself standing as an invisible speck near the sea- ‘It is all about collisions- personal and universal’.
ROHIT GANDHI + RAHUL KHANNA
Dubbed ‘Twilight’, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna’s Spring Summer 2019 collection at LMIFW, follows a monochromatic theme accentuated with glistening silver elements.
Handcrafted techniques such as 3D appliqué and hand beading comprising of black crystals highlight the garments. Intricate metal work with matte and gloss textures create unusual patterns over luxurious satin and twisted crepe materials in metallic hues.
RAJESH PRATAP SINGH
A muted colour palette of black and white comes alive to create a collection reminiscent of travellers- the pioneers and initial explorers of the gigantic Indian mountains.
Asymmetric silhouettes and deconstructed shapes honour Indian Pahadi roots in wool-linen blends, and weaves made on hand looms and ikats. Standout details include inside out seams, and handcrafted shoes and gloves to accessorise the look.
‘In Japan, when a bowl is broken, the cracks are filled in gold- The Japanese believe that when an object has suffered damage and has history, it becomes even more beautiful and the gold in the cracks are homage to this.’
Following the same notion, Anupamaa Dayal plays with the technique of patchwork in a vivid palette of eclectic prints and patterns. The designer champions the idea of a hand crafted garment translating to true luxury and produces easy-breezy separates for summer.
A beachy vibe is introduced with the use of the star fish motif in different sizes making this collection a sure shot contender for the jet-setting consumer today.