The Woolmark Company has announced the winner of the 2022 International Woolmark Prize at a special event held in London.
London-based designer Saul Nash bagged the award of AU$ 200,000 and there will be ongoing support from the industry and Woolmark Prize retail partners.
The company also announced Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation that was received by MMUSOMAXWELL who were awarded AU$ 100,000 as well as other ongoing support will also remain intact.
Saul Nash was praised for his modern use of Merino wool, bridging a gap between active solutions and more formal requirements.
“Everyone did a great job and could have been a winner,” commented Riccardo Tisci, adding, “But what Saul did, coming from a ballet background to replace lycra with wool was really incredible.”
This collection exposed Nash to the benefits of Merino wool in activewear, allowing him to develop materials which have enhanced the quality of his designs without compromising their technical DNA. With a focus on minimising waste, and emphasising movement and performance, Saul Nash’s modern interpretation of knitwear challenges preconceived ideas surrounding sportswear.
“Words cannot describe what this means to me,” said Saul Nash after the announcement. He added, “In such a short space of time I am so grateful for what I have gained in the past eight months. This really is the cherry on top for everything Woolmark has done for me.”
On the other hand, from South Africa, MMUSOMAXWELL’s winning collection was committed to reducing its environmental impact and upskilling traditional craftsmanship.
“When you meet certain people you immediately have love at first sight,” explained Carine Roitfeld, adding, “I love what MMUSOMAXWELL is doing and how they explain their work. They have a dream and what they are doing is not just for South Africa, but for a modern, western woman. I think Karl would have loved to have spoken with them today and am sure he would be very happy to give this award to them.”
Sourcing local raw materials and end-to-end production, MMUSOMAXWELL took an artisanal approach to its collection. Each item promotes slow and small batch production through use of local artisans to counteract the over-consumption pandemic and allows for greater product traceability. The jury praised the design duo for their passion, courage and committed to introducing a new skill-set to South African manufacturers.
“Winning means everything to us,” said MMUSOMAXWELL designers – Maxwell Boko and Mmuso Potsane – who further averred, “It allows us to continue working with artisans and to further explore with Merino wool, which is fantastic for us. It’s mind blowing.”
“It’s great to see the continuing shifts in fashion as young dynamic creatives are supported and nurtured across the globe, from Africa to China to the UK. Anyone who knows me will know that I’ve been supporting young talent at every opportunity, so I am very happy to be part of this initiative,” said Naomi Campbell, who further commented to be ‘very happy to be involved with Woolmark’.
The International Woolmark Prize this year celebrated the art of play, partnering with the Isamu Noguchi Foundation and Garden Museum. The immersive final showroom in London was inspired by the sculptural playscapes of Isamu Noguchi that offered a radical potential for physical and social interaction, showcasing the seven finalists’ collections with colourful, architectural displays.
The showroom also featured two iconic original play sculptures by the artist. Each six-look Merino wool collection was a true celebration of forward-thinking design, with finalists experimenting with textiles, design and responsible business practices to drive change and innovation for a cleaner, brighter future.
“The International Woolmark Prize is the jewel in our crown,” explained John Roberts, Managing Director, The Woolmark Company, adding, “It connects our Australian woolgrowers with the global fashion and textiles industry and in turn highlights the beauty, versatility and modernity of Australian wool. We’re proud of the relationships fostered between our seven finalists, prestigious judging panel and supply chain network who have mentored these designers on their Woolmark Prize journey and hope these connections continue in the future.”
Another award presented during the event was Supply Chain Award that went to Netherlands-based Knitwear Lab. A research and knowledge hub for innovative, design-driven and sustainable knitwear solutions, Knitwear Lab was recognised for its contribution to the International Woolmark Prize and for giving access to technology and R&D in flat-bed knitting to emerging brands in a way that is specific to their needs.
Standout developments include innovative 100 per cent Merino wool fabrics developed with winner Saul Nash – such as a compression wool hybrid jersey/airtex mesh knit or a double-faced jersey with integrated mesh holes – offering high stretch, strength and breathability. These breakthrough fabrics allowed Saul Nash to bring his vision to life.
Knitwear Lab also further developed its relationship with finalist Ahluwalia, exploring her concept of Nollywood through innovative knitwear true to the Ahluwalia brand.
The seven finalists for this year’s award were: Ahluwalia, United Kingdom; EGONLAB, France; Jordan Dalah, Australia; MMUSOMAXWELL, South Africa; Peter Do, USA; RUI, China; and Saul Nash, United Kingdom. Each showcased a commitment to upholding the prize’s pillars of product excellence, innovation, supply chain transparency, sustainability and inclusivity.
Finalists will now continue their International Woolmark Prize journey, joining a prestigious alumni of more than 400, and will be presented with commercial opportunities via our Retail Partner Network.
