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Nordstrom ranks as US shoppers’ favourite owing to impeccable customer service, brand value

Image Courtesy: nordstromhttpnypost.com

The US market has seen a slew of shop closures and many retailers are finding it difficult to keep their customer base interested. Some iconic names like American Apparel, The Limited, Abercrombie & Fitch, Wet Seal, Gymboree have either closed down or are on the verge of bankruptcy. Yet, there are a few other retailers/brands that continue to grow and remain preferred shopping destinations for consumers. A recent study by Market Force Information (Market Force) covering 10,000 consumers, found that Nordstrom continues to rank as the nation’s favourite fashion retailer fifth year in a row on parameters of value, atmosphere and ease of finding items. The retailer has built an enviable reputation of having an incomparable customer service and has hence, earned a loyal fan base.

Even in a very challenging retail environment, the retailer achieved a record sale of US $ 14.5 billion in 2016 because of the significant improvement the company was able to achieve along the supply chain to enhance value and keep its customers happy, the core of being a favourite fashion retailer. According to retail analyst, Nordstrom has managed to accrue (and maintain) a loyal fan base for a number of reasons – serving up street style-worthy, budget-friendly fashion, championing beloved Indie Brands’, famous customer service, and for its epic anniversary sale. The Nordstrom Anniversary Sale originated in the 1960s and is a one-of-a-kind sale – every July, the company brings in new styles from highly sought-after brands for men, women and kids. The retailer is committed to having a unique breadth of offering from accessible to luxury price points and the Anniversary Sale follows suit. It’s the ultimate sale with something for everyone in every category: clothing, shoes, handbags, accessories, home and beauty. It’s a sale the whole nation waits for!

Ashley Graham & Hana Mae Lee

Brands new to Anniversary Sale this year included Good American, Good Man Brand, Cinq a Sept, ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo and J. Crew, along with returning customer favourites like FRAME Denim, Rag & Bone, Current/Elliot, Elizabeth & James, Ashley Graham Lingerie, Nike, Stuart Weitzman and more. The Anniversary Sale also featured merchandise from Topshop/Topman, Madewell and Charlotte Tilbury which are available exclusively at Nordstrom. “We’re fortunate to have a terrific team of buyers who start working with our merchandise partners months before the Anniversary Sale begins,” said Scott Meden, Nordstrom Chief Marketing Officer, and added, “Our partners know how important this annual event is to our customers, so we’re excited to be able to bring in a fantastic assortment of new styles at reduced prices that aren’t available anywhere else.”

Nordstrom, Inc. is a leading fashion specialty retailer based in the US. Founded in 1901 as a shoe store in Seattle, today Nordstrom operates 354 stores in 40 states, including 122 full-line stores in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico; 221 Nordstrom rack stores; two Jeffrey boutiques; and two clearance stores. The company net sales increased 2.7 per cent and comparable sales decreased 0.8 per cent, in the first quarter of 2017, compared to the same quarter last year.

Vendor partnerships for value…

To keep its customers happy, the retailer works very closely with its vendors across the world to create value. Besides its huge vendor base, a small but growing portion of overall product offering comes from Nordstrom Product Group (NPG), the retailer’s family of private label brands. In 2016, NPG included 54 brands manufactured in 484 factories across 30 countries. India has the second highest number of vendors in this category (after China) with 59 associated factories. NPG is committed to working with agents, manufacturers, factories and mills to ensure that final consumers obtain compliant private label merchandise. The Product Integrity team supports NPG by proactively researching, interpreting and communicating rules, bans, regulations and standards for all private label products. In addition, a third-party testing programme has been implemented to ensure that products meet these standards.

The NPG is dedicated to providing garments, allowing comfortable movement while flattering the figure. The retailer’s technical designers work with suppliers to achieve consistent fit and quality by maintaining standards while achieving the brand’s cost targets and design integrity. The Technical Design team manages the fit process from design through commercialization. On the production front, a special Production Planning team manages the production timeline from order commitment through production execution and delivery. The planners communicate order commitments to the manufacturers, maintain costing and handle purchase order management. Together, the retailer and its global vendors strive to offer new products at best prices.

Top five NPG suppliers for Nordstrom in 2016 by volume were: 1. China (275 factories); 2. India (59 factories); 3. Vietnam (16 factories); 4. United States (48 factories); and 5. Bangladesh (1 factory)

NPG also tested eight new packaging reduction programmes in 2016, including use of less tissue papers in Halogen cashmere sweaters and removal of some of the paperboards used in men’s dress shirts and underwear. NPG’s women’s division stopped packing denim and casual knit tops in individual plastic bags and instead now packs multiple products in one large bag… These packaging-reduction pilots kept more than 20 tonnes of packaging out of the supply chain.

With a vision of a happy value chain, the retailer is also working with two factories in northern India, to pilot Project Prerna, an initiative from the non-profit organization Impactt Limited. The initiative is to train factory management and workers on effective communication strategies to increase worker satisfaction. More than 2,000 people are participating in the programme, with workers and supervisors already reporting about improved working relationships and clearer paths for advancement.

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“Quality, commitment and attitude are main attributes of a preferred supplier”: Market Fit Dhaka

Image Courtesy: www.market-fit.com

Created in 1974, Market Fit Group’s first domain of intervention was leather, quickly followed by textile, which is presently its main activity. Today, Market Fit Group operates in 8 major sourcing countries as a fashion supplier. Regarded as the pioneer of global sourcing in the textile industry, Market Fit Group began its operations as a family-owned business to steadily expand its operations across the world. Based in Hong Kong, it has marketing offices in the UK and France. It also has several sourcing offices as well in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Vietnam, Shanghai, Cambodia and Istanbul. Dealing in diverse categories – womenswear, menswear, kidswear, sportswear, maternitywear, uniforms, etc., Market Fit Dhaka primarily caters to the European markets.

Rule of Three

There are many factors that go into selecting a preferred supplier but the three significant ones remain Quality, Commitment and Attitude (towards a problem, if any).

Sync with Changing Dynamics

Though the industry is in sync with the changing requirements of the global apparel trade, to me it is yet not responsive as it should be.

Mohammed Nadeem Haider Rouf, Managing Director, Market Fit Dhaka

Biggest Challenge!

The biggest challenge is that everybody wants volume in basic orders. They are not experimental or aggressive to try new product categories. Sometimes, owners/top management want to undertake such endeavours but the mid-level/production people are not very keen on the same. In general, big factories are reluctant to go for these product changes while the medium and small factories have no financial strength to accept the challenge of working with new product3 categories.

The Future

Future is still good, but we (all the stakeholders) need to wake up, be aware of and protect ourselves from the controllable threats and challenges. The current global, political and economic situation doesn’t permit us to be reluctant. We need to be proactive at least for the controllable threats and require readying ourselves to face the uncontrollable ones. For me, the growth rate could be even better.

Image Courtesy: www.market-fit.com

Advantage BD

The size of the industry is its main advantage according to me as other LDC countries cannot make and offer such capacities overnight that we already have. Experience, knowhow, etc., are the other factors that will keep us in the contention.

Supplier Pool

Even though a preferred vendor list can help simplify business and give a sense of stability and continuity in supply, many people argue that a modern business shouldn’t restrict itself to only a limited number of suppliers. I also believe in the same. But being a sourcing entity, it’s always a complicated process as we need to pick the best one, which is not an easy job to say the least.

Business Policies

Most organizations rigidly follow a supplier criteria checklist but sometimes the vendors’ interests/policies are somewhat diverse from some of the business’ core values. In such a scenario, I will continue with a vendor if it can provide me the best of the products at the most competitive price even if it does not align with some of our core policies. Because the present changing market demands do not expect us to stick to the conventional methods; we have to take calculative risks.

Maintaining the Edge

Quality, commitment and attitude towards problems/threats/situations and a positive mindset are the qualities/factors that according to me can help a supplier maintain the competitive edge.

Bangladesh launches Phase II of cleaner textile pact

The International Finance Corporation (IFC) has signed an agreement with Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) to execute the second phase of Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) in the garment & Textile sector of Bangladesh.

IFC is a member of the World Bank Group and the largest global development institution focused exclusively on the private sector in developing countries.

President of BGMEA Siddiqur Rahman and Wendy Jo Werner, Country Manager for Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal at IFC, signed the agreement on behalf of their respective sides at Radisson Blu hotel in Dhaka recently to implement the PaCT in 250 spinning, dyeing and finishing units.

As part of the PaCT programme (launched in 2013), apparel and textile manufacturers are encouraged to embrace contemporary technologies in factories and change approaches to reduce water and energy consumption over the next four years.

“The factories have reduced their water consumption significantly thanks to the implementation of the first phase of the PaCT,” Rahman said.

The IFC will disburse US $ 7 million to implement the second phase of the programme. The first phase was implemented in 215 factories at a cost of US $ 11 million.

Nishat Shahid Chowdhury Programme Manager of PaCT states that every dollar invested in implementing their recommendations, 26 million cubic litres of water and 2 MWh of energy can be saved annually, and 23 million cubic litres of wastewater and 0.2 tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions can be avoided per year.

Despite having one of the lowest per capita carbon dioxide emissions, Bangladesh has stepped up its efforts to be known for its environmental sustainability initiatives.

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H&M sales up 7% in 9-month period to August

Image Courtesy: redhillbelfry.co.uk

Swedish fashion retailer H&M has announced its financial results for nine months ended August 31, 2017.

During the period under review, H&M’s sales including VAT increased by 7 per cent to SEK 173,290 million. Its sales excluding VAT amounted to SEK 149,597 million in the same period last year.

The fashion retailer’s profit after financial items reached SEK 15,936 million compared to 16,630 million in the nine-month period of last year. Profit after tax was SEK 12,191 million against 12,722 million in the same period of 2016.

In the third quarter, H&M’s sales including VAT soared 5 per cent to SEK 59,383 million compared to 56,802 million during the corresponding quarter of 2016.

Sales excluding VAT stood at SEK 51,229 million during the quarter against 48,982 million.

In the review period, H&M opened new stores in Kazakhstan, Colombia, Iceland and Vietnam. The brand will now launch a store in Georgia later this autumn, and in Uruguay and Ukraine by 2018.

DCC Print gears up to push Bangladesh garment industry towards US $ 50 bn mark

Image Courtesy: dcc.co.in

Printing plays an important role in value addition, and as Bangladesh gears up to achieve the magic figure of US $ 50 billion by 2021 in apparel exports, value addition is going to be one of the key contributing factors. Country Manager of Bangladesh’s first and only integrated printing solutions provider – DCC Print Vision LLP, H N Ashiqur Rahman, speaks to Apparel Online underlining his company’s initiatives to help the industry achieve this long-cherished dream to befittingly commemorate the country’s 50 years of Independence.

H N Ashiqur Rahman, Country Manager – DCC Print Vision LLP

“Last year, garment export was worth around US $ 28 billion, and to reach the target of US $ 50 billion, the industry would have to almost double the exports, either in terms of volume or value. Honestly speaking, doubling up volume seems impossible! A concerted effort at value addition (to command better price points) alongside volume increase would perhaps be the best shot at reaching the US $ 50 billion landmark,” explains Ashiq, stressing that Bangladesh’s absolute reliance on foreign nations to get value addition through prints, is cutting into the profit margins of the garment exporters. “If they can do the same in Bangladesh, it would yield better margins. And this is what DCC is helping them achieve,” he reasons with a futuristic view.

“Last year garment export was worth around US $ 28 billion, and to reach the target of US $ 50 billion, the industry would have to almost double the exports, either in terms of volume or value. Honestly speaking, doubling up volume seems impossible! A concerted effort at value addition (to command better price points) alongside volume increase would perhaps be the best shot at reaching the US $ 50 billion landmark.” – H N Ashiqur Rahman, Country Manager – DCC Print Vision LLP

Headquartered in India, DCC offers an entire range of printers – screen, digital and sublimation – with the aim to make printing technology available and also let all the levels of the industry be aware about their knowhow to increase the focus on value addition. The company’s customized solutions in software (‘Wasatch’ – considered one of the best in the world), and hardware (zero-maintenance heat press machines from Monti Antonio, Italy, sublimation printer from Epson, etc.), have enabled DCC to already get the desired industry attention.

Image Courtesy: dcc.co.in

“In Bangladesh, I did not see a single company working towards integration of the printing process, which is an amalgamation of diverse but critical aspects. We are the first to join all the dots to offer the best possible solutions,” underlines Ashiq confidently. Ashiq’s long-standing association with the apparel industry in his more than a decade-old career in diverse roles for various companies has made DCC get an incisive reach in the industry.

Christened as an ‘Xperience Zone’ and spread over 4000 square feet in the heart of Dhaka, DCC has come up with its first ever showroom offering complete solution/support as far as printing is concerned, be it certified training, complete range of raw materials, machines and design development support for the entire supply chain from fabrics to garments. “We are helping to train the manpower with requisite skills along with rendering free sampling facility. Using our services and people trained by us, many manufacturers have already bagged decent orders from the prospective clients, which is slowly but surely building the trust factor,” underlines the Bangladesh Country Manager of DCC. The company has signed a Memorandum of Understanding with BGMEA under which people trained by DCC are awarded certificates by the Center of Excellence for Bangladesh Apparel Industry (CEBAI) – an institute for skill development under the joint initiative of ILO and BGMEA and funded by H&M, and Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency (SIDA), with a view to establish a replicable model of industry-driven training and support services. This, along with DCC’s excellent services, has helped significantly increase the company’s acceptance not only amongst the garment manufacturers but also the buying houses, a vital cog of the apparel industry credited with earning valuable foreign currency through substantial overseas orders.

Image Courtesy: dcc.co.in

“We are soon going to organize a seminar for the buying houses to make them aware of our services and offerings. Earlier they would not place orders with local manufacturers for value-added items… But with the coming of DCC, things are changing,” claims Ashiq. The overwhelming enquiries (currently numbering around 50-60) from all the big players in the industry, is a testament to Ashiq’s claims.

“We are still in the process of educating the customers, but enquiry about materialization percentage is very good, surpassing even our expectations,” Ashiq states, confident of putting up an excellent performance in the coming days, which stems from the company’s unique services and solutions under one roof; including modern printing technologies, inks and consumables, software, service support, tech consulting, hands-on training and application support.

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Bangladeshi Apparel Buyer KNA Sourcing highlights future strategy and plans

Image Courtesy: knasourcing.com

If the growing popularity of the Bangladesh garment industry in the global arena has opened up new avenues for the garment manufacturers, it has also spurred the growth of the buying entities, with everyone vying to cash in on this big opportunity. But rising competition amongst buying houses, coupled with lack of proper and long-term planning, is proving to be the undoing for many.

KNA Sourcing Limited, started by Md Kayum Mollah (Chairman), Nasim Uddin Mazumder (Managing Director) and Md Arman Hossain – Director in 2013, is an exception though. Seasoned professionals with more than 15 years’ of experience – during which Kayum, Nasim and Arman worked for manufacturing houses and sourcing entities in various capacities, before starting their own business – are treading the path rather cautiously, and with a clear-cut plan.

“Currently, I am catering to four customers in Europe and one each in Canada and Germany,” informs Mollah, adding, “We source all kinds of products from Bangladesh for them.” Though sourcing a range of products, bottoms (denim and non-denim) and shirts (formal and casual) are the mainstay of KNA. In bottoms, denims (FOB range from US $ 4.75 to US $ 10.50 depending on value additions) constitute 70 per cent of the total volume, while non-denim (twill, cotton, stretch twill, canvas, etc.) accounts for the remaining 30 per cent. The average FOB of shirts sourced by KNA is around US $ 6.5 plus.

Md Kayum Mollah, Chairman – KNA Sourcing Limited

A watchful entrepreneur as he is, Mollah first plans to increase his clientele in the existing markets and serve them satisfactorily before looking for opportunities beyond. It is this very approach aimed at client satisfaction that has now led Mollah to venture into garment manufacturing.

“We have started garment manufacturing from June 2016 to provide the best of services and comfort to our customers,” says Mollah. Located in the garmenting hub of Ashulia, Spartan Fashions (four lines and 250 plus machines with plans to add three more lines soon and a worker strength of 450) produces all kinds of bottoms (denims, non-denims) and workwear. Competitive prices, quality products and an improved turnaround time have been the other motivating factors behind the coming up of the production unit.

Image Courtesy: knasourcing.com

Already Sedex certified, Mollah has now proceeded for BSCI and even plans to go for the Accord certification for Spartan soon, which would not only help him to route more orders sourced from the existing clients to Spartan but also add new names in the clientele. “Most of the bottom orders from clients (for all of which Spartan can fulfil the laid down criteria) are placed with Spartan itself while the remaining orders go to another unit,” he explains strategically. Spartan also takes in orders from other buying houses to fill its capacities. For shirts, KNA prefers to work with only three factories in the country. “We do not place any orders with factories that we do not know very well. Secondly, the factories we plan to work with need to be fully compliant, fulfilling the clients’ requirement,” states Mollah on the various parameters that go behind shortlisting a supplier unit. Product specialization of each of the factories decides who gets to manufacture which product.

Keeping in sync with future, Mollah has also set up an in-house product development team, to give KNA that extra edge.

“It’s a very small team with just three people,” explains Mollah, who globe-trots with his PD team to pick up the new developments from various places, and elaborates, “We travel a lot, attend several events and even see the developments in every mill that we source raw materials from. We also pick up inspirations from our clients.”

Based on the styles and inspirations picked up from various sources, KNA develops its own collection which it presents to the prime clients. “So they take some from our collection and suggest their own, based on which we come up with even more developments,” says Mollah on a parting note, expressing hope that the new manufacturing unit would help him play around and come up with innovative products to grow his business in the coming days.

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“Commitment, reliability, quality and transparency are essentials of a preferred supplier”: CJ International

Roshan Withanage, Managing Director, CJ International

Having started its operations in Bangladesh in 2006, CJ International is a Swedish buying house spearheaded by Roshan Withanage as the Managing Director. Besides Bangladesh, CJ International also has offices in India, China, Pakistan and Hong Kong in addition to its partners in Latvia, Estonia and Thailand.

Working predominantly with Scandinavia, sweaters account for almost half of CJ International’s total business from Bangladesh, while the remaining 40 per cent is shared by knit and woven products, and 10 per cent by home textiles (bathrobes, towels, etc). It has a well-equipped design studio in Sweden, in-house product development teams (both for design and yarn development) and a testing lab (employing a full-time technician and complete set of equipment including an International Lab Standard washer, a dryer, a GSM cutter and GSM weighing machines among others) and its very own knitting factory, Young 4ever Textiles Limited (specialized in all kinds of knitted products), with a production capacity of over 4,00,000 pieces per month.

Rule of Three

According to me, the three most important factors for being recognized as a preferred supplier are:

  • Commitment and Reliability
  • Quality, and
  • Transparency/Honesty

Sync with Changing Dynamics

I personally see that very few suppliers are changing as per the global apparel trade requirements. Suppliers need to be fast in feedback and proactive in design and trends. Also, they need to be more accommodative to the buyers’ needs. Those who give a personal and customized response will definitely win in the long run.

Biggest Challenge!

Minimum order quantities are too high, unlike in China. Suppliers are also not geared up to take on new trend-based challenges; they look too much into doing what they have been doing till now.

The Future

The garment exports in Bangladesh will continue to grow not because they are great or they deserve it but due to the simple reason of low labour cost and low energy costs when comparing the competition (which gives less choice to the buyers). If they were proactive, innovative and customer-driven, they could have grown much more.

AO SURVEY FINDINGS

The respondents also agreed that the other major considerations for a preferred supplier would be defined on the basis of: The respondents also agreed that the other major considerations for a preferred supplier would be defined on the basis of:

• Upfront Attitude of Management (Transparency/Partnerships)

• PD Skills/Innovation• Speed to Market

• Product Price/Quality Ratio

Advantage BD

Low prices, and established industry with years of export knowledge (compared to the African countries).

Supplier Pool

Even though I personally would like to agree that a preferred vendor list can help simplify business and give a sense of stability and continuity in supply, a modern business shouldn’t restrict itself to only a limited number of suppliers. But we are not in a position to do so due to the simple fact that more than 50 per cent of the vendors are not reliable or responsible. Therefore, it pays to stick to the known few vendors. Although it’s a matter of time before the industry ups its standards and all the vendors come to an almost equal platform.

With global connectivity improving and advancement of e-commerce, it will be normal to shop around for new vendors more often, but it will take a bit more time in Bangladesh to happen.

Business Policies

I totally agree that we should be flexible enough to change our policies provided that the vendors, who are not the preferred ones, are ethical and do not harm the environment. Being rigid on our own policies will make us lose our competitive advantage in the market as flexibility is the key in this business.

Maintaining the Edge

In this age, when most of the businesses review the supplier list almost every few years to get the best bargain possible, the following qualities/factors can help a supplier maintain that competitive edge:

  • Be proactive to changes,
  • Adopt LEAN management,
  • Be flexible to the buyers’ requirements,
  • Look for a niche market (can do parallel to one’s core basic products),
  • Continue absorbing new technologies, and
  • Look for new supplier markets with low infrastructure costs and labour to establish oneself parallel to one’s current production base.
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“Compliance, quality and commitment are essentials in a preferred supplier”: Synergies Sourcing Bangladesh

Image Courtesy: synergiesworldwide.com

Synergies Sourcing Bangladesh Limited, headed by Atif Ahmed as the Director, is the local sourcing arm of Synergies Worldwide (with global headquarters in Bangkok). It was founded by Munir Mashooqullah, an industry evangelist and a sought-after speaker on supply chain, who retired after 28 years’ of active involvement with the company and handed over the reins to Guido Schlossmann (President and CEO), a former Li & Fung executive.

The global supply chain managing company, which provides low-cost sourcing solutions in apparel, fashion accessories, footwear, home textiles, decorative accessories and other goods for retailers/brands in the fashion and hospitality industries, sources different products from various manufacturing centres based on their core strengths.

Image Courtesy: synergiesworldwide.com

Its’ Bangladesh operations today account for almost 50 per cent of the company’s total sourcing.

Rule of Three

Our first requirement starts from Compliance, moving to Quality and last but not the least, ending at Commitment. These are the most important factors we consider before enlisting any vendor to become our business partners.

AO SURVEY FINDINGS

98% of the buyers are confident that Bangladesh will remain a preferred destination, not only for basic items but also for growing importance on orders for value added and small quantity orders.

Sync with Changing Dynamics

To remain in sync with the requirement of today’s fashion retail business, our country really needs to fast-track improvement and enable further development/enhancement of raw material supplies as still there are so many qualities which we have to import, which consequently increases our lead time, whereas on the other hand, our fast fashion clients are reducing their procurement lead time every season. This remains a challenge for us to compete with the other countries which have vast variety of raw materials (fabric, yarn, etc.) locally available.

Atif Ahmed, Director, Synergies Sourcing Bangladesh Ltd.

Biggest Challenge!

Denim apparel manufacturing overall has advanced quite a lot but it still requires some learning, especially in washing process to produce garments with less chemicals and yet give better output. Therefore, awareness and implementation of this knowledge should be ensured very soon. Moreover, green product is the most discussed subject today for which we have already taken major initiatives 3-4 years back by proposing sustainable collections to our clients. Our country needs to fast undergo this shift towards sustainability for a better and assured future.

The Future

The growth of the industry is satisfactory in my humble opinion considering the fact that many of the big retailers are struggling at their sales end. Bangladesh still needs improvement in many of the areas for which manufacturers are closely working with the concerned associations.

Image Courtesy: synergiesworldwide.com

Advantage BD

Bangladesh will remain important for the kind of infrastructure each factory has established. Besides, manufacturing cost is still one of the lowest in Bangladesh. Most industrialists are also continuously working to add automations to enhance productivity to control costs.

Supplier Pool

We do believe in building partnerships with manufacturers as it takes a lot of time and energy to build relations plus technical understanding, but we are still open to welcome new reliable manufacturers as there is always some unique strength in each of them which adds value to our product mix.

Business Policies

We have tried to maintain a flexible yet strictly ethical policy in vendor management in which there is always a room for special consideration as long as it complies with our CSR criteria.

Maintaining the Edge

Well, it’s not easy to define just one area to maintain our competitiveness but sourcing competitively-priced raw materials has been our core focus to maintain the lowest possible cost rather than just bargain on CMs with our manufacturing partners. We try to balance our cost down in every possible area but the challenge continues…!

Biggest trends from London Fashion Week for S/S ‘18

Concluding another leg of fashion month, London Fashion Week just ended and that means another set of fashion trends are ready for your perusal.

The city is always famed for its young burgeoning talent that constantly churns fresh ideas and pioneers in eclectic construction techniques. However, this season luxury brand Burberry showed that freshness is not reserved only for the young.

Tapping into the brand’s chav heritage, which was popularly discarded as a fashion ‘faux pas’ in the 2000s, Christopher Bailey revived the trademark caramel check, a brilliant move to highlight their British legacy and ironically claiming an iconic status in pop culture at the same time.

Actually, irony was commonplace at a lot of shows and especially evident in the accessories department. With Anya Hindmarch’s takeaway boxes repurposed as handbags; pillows and blankets becoming the arm candy at Mother of Pearl and Christopher Kane’s return to bejewelled crocs as well as mop shoes in the same collection.

While these may be more ludicrous statements than anything else, the city did offer a plethora of concepts which will translate perfectly to retail frontiers for next season. Here are the main fashion trends that will be key for the UK fashion market in Spring/Summer 2018.

HAUTE RAINCOAT

Fashion East, Burberry, Toga, Pam Hogg and Nicopanda.

Deliriously famous for their damp weather, Brit designers have taken up the humble utilitarian raincoat and made it absolutely ‘haute’ for the upcoming season. Nicopanda presented the rainy outerwear basic in bubble-gum pink with ruffle details; Toga made sleek tailored coats in red and blue that could be mistaken for floor length dresses and Burberry slapped their prominent check on clean silhouettes.

SORBET SOIRÉE

Marta Jakubowski, Joseph, Preen by Thonton Bregazzi, Emilio de la Morena and Emilia Wickstead.

Celebration of femininity continues for another season with soft pastels in a wild variety of colours. A sugary ladylike trend that is always a hot seller for summer collections, it was spotted at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi in sheer candy hues and Emilia Wickstead on long pleated dresses. The sorbet party made its way to Marta Jakubowski and Joseph’s vibrant assortments as well.

RICH SLICE

Christopher Kane, A.W.A.K.E, Toga, Ralph & Russo and Natasha Zinko.

Sometimes better than immaculate construction is its opposite counterpart: deconstruction. Slashing and slicing to repurpose bulkier silhouettes was a big hit at London’s much-loved shows. As seen at Natasha Zinko and Toga, both of which tore out sleeves and destroyed hemlines in outerwear, the trend was continued by A.W.A.K.E and Halpern in a more tailored way for spring 2018.

SILVER HILL

Erdem, Julien MacDonald, Temperley London, Fyodor Golan and Lunyee.

The festive winter mania of metallics in fashion garments has made its way to summer collections in a bright space-silver avatar. The sci-fi inspired material was abundantly spotted throughout Ralph & Russo’s debut RTW show in everything from bodycon dresses to thick coats. Even Ashish UK, who normally plays with bright primary colours went for a black and silver collection this season.

RUFFLE TROUBLE

Erdem, Christopher Kane, Bora Aksu, Simone Rocha and Ralph & Russo.

A garment detail that efficiently couples as an accessory and gives ample architectural dimension to any outfit, the ruffle was sensational at summer collections in London. From Simone Rocha’s overbearing balloon gowns with oversized ruffles and Emilio de la Morena’s snaking shapes around wavy dresses to Christopher Kane’s use of multiple thin frills of sheer printed fabric decorating clean sheath dresses, ruffles are here to stay.

HATCH PATCH

Mary Katrantzou, Marques’Almeida, Anya Hindmarch, Fashion East and Peter Pilotto.

The ‘hippie de luxe’ trend of patchworks and panelling was a strong look that featured in a lot of British fashion designers’ diverse propositions. A bohemian favourite, the style was a mainstay at the youth collective Fashion East’s entire line-up, Peter Pilotto’s shift dresses and Marques’Almeida’s slash and spliced gowns. At Anya Hindmarch and Antonio Berardi, the trend was used in bold outerwear pieces.

PINK Ft. RED

Emporio Armani, Emilia Wickstead, Ashley Williams, Roksanda and Paula Knorrt.

Lo and behold, pink palanquin bearers are still here and they might not leave anytime soon! Last season’s pink was paired with this season’s cherry red all over the runways of London. Ashley Williams put a red belt on a pink dress; Roksanda paired red wide leg pants with a pink flowy gown and Emporio Armani stepped up the colour pairing game with double checks: windowpane on top and glen plaid on bottom.

DRAWSTRINGS

Natasha Zinko, Mary Katrantzou, Anya Hindmarch, Palmer Harding and Pringle of Scotland.

Closures have been getting the sportswear touch since last fall and now for summer 2018, the favourite bondage is drawing inspirations from bungee cords. At Mary Katrantzou, hot air balloons was the main theme and her bubble hem skirts were are all tied together with strings. From Palmer Harding’s haphazard tie-up to Pringle of Scotland’s sporty separates, bungee ropes were everywhere.

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“Key factors to be a preferred supplier are organizational structure, workforce, financial strength & reputation”: NTI

Image Courtesy: crochetcoach.com

A buying entity with years of experience in servicing overseas buyers from USA, Europe, Australia, South Africa and Israel, Nahid Trade International (NTI) is represented by its CEO Nipun Nawaz.A buying entity with years of experience in servicing overseas buyers from USA, Europe, Australia, South Africa and Israel, Nahid Trade International (NTI) is represented by its CEO Nipun Nawaz.

Rule of Three

According to me, the three most important factors to be a preferred supplier are:

  • How Well-organized and Established the supplier is, and how many workers and machines it has; because if it does not have enough workers, it will not manage to finish the orders on time.
  • Financial Strength, and if it has any banking issues or not, is also very important. Without strong financial standing, the supplier will not be able to complete orders and even if it does so, there will be a lot of risk involved.
  • Reputation and the Past Track Record.

Sync with Changing Dynamics

The industry is undergoing change to some extent to adjust to the changing requirements of the global apparel trade! We have become substantially adaptable now and have started accepting more fashion stuffs than before as people are interested in fashionable items compared to the basics. Also we have become a lot more flexible in payment procedures; we have started accepting contracts, CAD (Cash Against Documents), and minimum advance and rest CAD as payment modes. All these changes are in pace with the rapid modifications taking place in the apparel trade globally.

Nipun Nawaz,CEO, Nahid Trade International (NTI)

Biggest Challenge!

The biggest challenge is the ‘Deadline’! The lack of professional commitment is the main reason behind failures in delivering orders on time, but suppliers in general have a bad reputation sticking to the timelines. Timing is of utmost importance in our business. But it becomes almost impossible to maintain dates with our suppliers, as a result we cannot keep our commitments made to the buyers, resulting in delayed shipments.

The Future

The future is very good for Bangladesh in garment exports. We are still cheaper compared to many other countries in various product categories. And it is because of this very advantage that we are ahead of our competitors. As per statistics, we are apparently growing every year and if this is the reality, it is very good. But, individually speaking, I think we could have done even better.

Advantage BD

Cheaper price is the biggest advantage for Bangladesh and this is something which keeps us in the preferred list amongst the buyers. However, one has to understand that we are cheaper only in terms of basic items but when it comes to fashionable apparels, we tend to lose the preferred tag and this is one area, I think, we need to improve a lot.

Supplier Pool

Even though a preferred vendor list can help simplify business and give a sense of stability and continuity in supply, many people argue that a modern business shouldn’t restrict itself to only a limited number of suppliers. What these people think is absolutely true. All the big brands in this world may give 70 per cent of their production requirement to the preferred suppliers but for the rest, they always opt working with the one who is not in the preferred list. The buyers also like to compare the services of the new suppliers with the regular/preferred suppliers.

Business Policies

Most organizations rigidly follow a suppliers’ criteria checklist but sometimes vendors’ interests/policies are quite diverse from some of the businesses’ core values. In such a scenario, the supplier must always comply with the requisite and laid down criteria; there is no room to overlook the same. However, there is a probability of ‘if’ here. Suppose a supplier can give a very competitive price and with just the perfect products, I may perhaps check its services once with a trial order and if it does a good work without affecting the business, policies can be altered accordingly.

Maintaining the Edge

To continue being in the preferred list, suppliers have to be more meticulous and sharpen their services in terms of timing and quality. Buyers know the prices very well and if the supplier tries to charge more, this is not going to be acceptable.To be in the preferred list, suppliers must maintain their timing in every aspect of the production till delivery. When you keep your dates and at the end of the production, you deliver 85 per cent perfect products, buyers will be happy and suppliers would continue to be in the preferred category.

Business keyboard_arrow_right Sourcing keyboard_arrow_right Feature

“Desired qualities in a Preferred Supplier – Sincerity, Commitment, Competitive Pricing”: Dazzle Textile Limited

Image Courtesy: dazzletextileltd.com

Dazzle Textile Limited spearheaded by Sahed Hasan as the Managing Director, is a buying house with its very own manufacturing unit (68 machines), which the company plans to increase to 1,000 machines, to cater to a rich clientele.

Rule of Three

First and foremost is Sincerity, because it is very important for any work; second would be Commitment (because if a supplier can maintain his commitment, everything else will be in place in terms of business); and the third quality would be Competitive Pricing.

Sync with Changing Dynamics

With changing times, everything changes; even the buyers syncing with the change become very important.

Biggest Challenge!

We are working with an international company from Europe and their product category is of very high-level and a lot needs to be done to maintain that quality. So, in this case, my suppliers should be able to meet the quality standards if they want to work with us.

Sahed Hasan, Managing Director, Dazzle Textile Limited

The Future

In the RMG sector, Bangladesh has done a very good job and has positive future prospects.

Advantage BD

Honesty, good quality of products and commitment

Supplier Pool

I think change is better but not in every case. My associated suppliers already know my product categories as well as the requirements. But having said so, I think new people also should get opportunities.

Business Policies

I will work with a supplier even if its interests/policies are somewhat different from some of my core business principles; it’s not mandatory that all criteria or requirements of a supplier should always match mine or vice-a-versa.

Maintaining the Edge

I always think that the supplier and me are two sides of the same coin; we are attached to each other very closely. So, it is not possible for both of us to work without each other.

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Swedish Buyer CJ International Fights Challenges to Succeed in Bangladesh Garment Market

Image Courtesy: cjinternationalltd.com

Success in business is all about negotiating challenges deftly, which is something Roshan Withanage, the Managing Director of CJ International – Bangladesh, head of the Swedish buying house, has been doing with aplomb for long to help the Swedish company stand out amongst the hordes of buying entities that dot the country’s landscape today.

Starting operations in Bangladesh in 2006, CJ International’s mainstay as far as sourcing is concerned, was home textiles. But that was only till Pakistan started enjoying the GSP facility, which ensured a shift of business (home textiles) from Bangladesh to Pakistan. That CJ International owns an office in Pakistan helped it to deal with this situation effectively. Besides Pakistan, CJ International also has offices in India, Bangladesh, China and Hong Kong in addition to its partners in Latvia, Estonia and Thailand.

Roshan Withanage, Managing Director, CJ International

“There has been a lot of change in the sourcing pattern over the years. Earlier home textiles accounted for almost 60 per cent of our business from Bangladesh. But today it’s 10 per cent of the total business,” explains the MD of CJ International, who adapted well to the changing dynamics and shifted focus to other product categories that have good demands in the markets that the buying house operates in.

Working predominantly with Scandinavia, sweater eventually emerged as the much sought after product accounting for almost half of CJ International’s total business from Bangladesh, while the remaining 40% is shared by knit and woven products and 10 per cent by home textiles (bath robes, towel, etc).

“There is round the year demand for sweaters. During winter, the demand is more for sweaters in heavy gauge while summer and autumn pushes up requirements in lighter gauges,” Roshan explains, adding, “We cater to many big names in Scandinavia including Gina Tricot (Swedish retailer), whose sourcing in Bangladesh is primarily dependent on us. We source everything that is cotton-based across product categories. However, in terms of volume, sweater is still the biggest, followed by T-shirts, then denims, shirts, etc. What we do not ship from here are synthetic items like poplin, georgettes, etc, which are still at a very infant stage in this country”.

CJ International’s offerings in RMG

CJ International’s average FOB of a pair of denim (ladies) is around US $ 8, T-shirt around US $ 3 and sweater is around US $ 8.

This continuous order flow in sweaters has helped Roshan establish a very good control in all the three sweater manufacturing units (in which the buying houses place their order for woollens) as almost 70 per cent of their total capacities are booked by CJ International throughout the year. “Keeping the number of factories limited and sharing a long-standing relationship helps build the trust factor. In the process, we have aided many factories develop their standards by helping them improve in various aspects,” elucidates Roshan, underlining that it is the very same principle that he applies to other factories for the other product categories.

Image Courtesy: cjinternationalltd.com

Despite having a factory base of over 20, CJ International primarily works with only 11. “This is basically to increase order volumes per factory, become a big player in each of them and ensure better quality, and enhance social and environmental compliances,” explains Roshan.

Taking pride in CJ International’s philosophy of acting as clients’ ‘eyes and ears’ and operating as their back office, Roshan’s next target is to cover Europe and Australia in terms of market.

“Apart from Scandinavia, we have running orders from France, Germany and Australia and now we are looking at Poland and Russia also,” he maintains. In Europe, Germany is high up in Roshan’s estimates in terms of potentials, who goes on to add further, “Germans have more dispensable income compared to many other countries in Europe while at the same time German market is also very price-sensitive.”

The United Kingdom has also been a preferred market for CJ International for long. However, with the British deciding to part ways with the European Union, things have changed considerably now, Roshan feels. “The effect of Brexit has been across geographical locations. Besides EU countries and UK, it has differently impacted the manufacturing destinations in other places,” Roshan underlines. British Pound and Euro losing value in comparison to US Dollar have had larger ramifications for the Bangladesh apparel industry in particular as it deals in US Dollars.

“Bangladesh in a way has become expensive for UK as well as other EU nations to do business with. As a result, manufacturers and exporters have to cut prices and lose margins to continue being in the business,” Roshan reveals. According to him, if Brexit proved somewhat ominous for garment exporters in Bangladesh, it was rather the contrary for Turkey (which deals in Euro).

Despite many European countries successfully carrying out austerity drives, following the economic crises that hit Europe in 2007 and 2009 respectively forcing Governments to take decisive action to improve public finances, push through deep reforms, and establish new institutions to manage and prevent crises better and bring their respective economies back on track –the ripple effects of Brexit are going to haunt the garment industry in Bangladesh for some time to come, so feels Roshan.

Being the one who helped develop the Bangladesh operations of CJ International, which now contributes roughly US $ 50 million in the company’s total yearly turnover of US $ 100 million, Roshan is not the one to give up on challenges. He is therefore now looking at expanding in USA, where the company already ships caps and few other items to a select clientele.

Well-equipped with a design studio in Sweden, in-house product development teams (both for design and yarn development) and a testing lab (employing a full-time technician and complete set of equipment including an International Lab Standard washer, a dryer, a GSM cutter and GSM weighing machines among others) and it’s very own knitting factory, Young 4ever Textiles Limited (specialized in all kinds of knitted products with production capacity of over 400,000 pieces per month) takes care of the clients’ diverse requirements. This makes Roshan more than confident about CJ International’s prospects in the US.

“We have a winning combination of Swedish, Bangladeshi and Sri Lankan team that brings the technical expertise, transparency and commitment much needed in this kind of operation. Besides, we also have a strong merchandising division and a Quality Assurance department, which visits each supplier almost every day to ensure that the buyers’ requirements in quality and on-time delivery are maintained. To aid our teams, we also have an in-house lab that checks all goods at least three times per production cycle in addition to any buyer-specific requirements,” wraps up Roshan, assuring a full package for all the prospective clients.