“Drill, baby, drill!” That was US President Donald Trump’s rallying cry to fossil fuel companies, urging them to keep extracting with no holds barred. At the same time, he has also dismissed climate change as a ‘hoax’ and withdrew from the Paris Agreement, signalling a major shift in environmental priorities.
And when the most powerful country changes direction, it’s like a train engine changing course—the coaches behind it naturally follow. But will the apparel industry be pulled along or will it stay on its path?
With the US scaling back its focus on climate action, we asked industry leaders: Will this lead to a decline in sustainability efforts amongst apparel manufacturers, increase the use of fossil fuels and disrupt global supply chains? Or will the industry continue its sustainability efforts, no matter what?
This is particularly crucial for India because the US is the largest export destination for Indian textiles and apparel, accounting for 28 per cent of India’s total textile and apparel exports, which were valued at US $ 36 billion in fiscal 2024. Now, a good chunk of these exports focus on sustainability, as brands and customers want more eco-friendly and responsibly made products.
Sustainability Initiatives: A Market-Driven Approach
Some worry that with expectations of less punitive action, American brands might scale back their sustainability efforts. But so far, no brand has hit the rewind button on its promises.
In fact, brands like Levi’s, Eileen Fisher, Rag & Bone, Mara Hoffman, Patagonia, Burt’s Bees Baby, Gap Inc., amongst others, have been actively seeking out sustainability goals and initiatives.
Manufacturers of all sizes, from fibre and yarn to fabric, garments and textiles, agree that market demand, not rhetoric, dictates production. In recent years, foreign markets have seen a sharp rise in demand for sustainable materials.
“Brands in the US, EU and UK have already set clear mandates for sustainable sourcing, recycled materials and traceability. Compliance is no longer optional; it’s becoming a requirement for doing business,” said Mrs Smita Joshi- Vice President of Home Textiles and Exports, Nesterra, A Sutlej Brand (K K Birla Group). The Rs. 3,000 crore company is a major producer of a range of textile products that extends from yarns and fabrics to home furnishing. It supplies clients in India and exports to 65 countries.
In fact, due to the increasing demand for sustainable products, the company in 2021 invested in a 120 TPD (Tonnes Per Day) green fibre manufacturing plant that consumes PET waste.
However, Smita mentioned that the biggest challenge in sustainability is fibre blends. While blends of recycled polyester and natural fibres like cotton are easier to recycle, some compositions of elastane, nylon or acrylic make the process much harder. This is why the industry is shifting toward single-composition products, as blended fabrics—especially in home furnishings—have long been a major hurdle to recyclability.
“Sustainability in the US and European markets has grown significantly. In our export segment, most customers now request at least 50 per cent of their materials to be sustainable,” said Ronak Agarwal, Director, Khazana Group. The Surat-based company, with an annual turnover of Rs. 500 crore, manufactures a wide range of polyester knitted fabrics.
Similarly, Winsome Textile, a leading producer of yarns and fabrics for knitting and weaving, also actively works with organic cotton, BCI-certified yarn and recycled materials. “Nearly 90 per cent of our orders now include BCI certification, reflecting the industry’s shift towards responsible sourcing,” said a spokesperson from the company. The company, which caters to major American brands has 110,000 spindles and offers yarn counts from NE 10 to NE 60 in melange, dyed and fancy yarns across pure cotton and blends.
He added that demand for 100 per cent cotton, organic cotton, BCI-certified cotton and cotton-poly blends (60:40 and 52:48) is expected to grow.
“A few years ago, sustainability was mostly just a marketing tactic — brands used just 5-10 per cent sustainable materials in their collections but centred their campaigns around it. Today, for some brands, that number has risen to nearly 30-35 per cent,” said Samay Gangar, Partner, Mayka Syntex.
Their company has grown from selling bottom-weight fabrics to pivoting into men’s shirting in 2001 and later adding women’s fabrics as well. Mayka now supplies fabric to regional and national brands, wholesalers, exporters and corporates, selling over one million metres of fabric every month across the globe.
| “The use of recyclable fabric has grown a lot in the last five years. Buyers are looking for more sustainable options and most companies are focusing on long-term eco-friendly practices, no matter what happens in global politics,” Sajeev Menon, VP – Business Development, Best Corporation |
According to Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director, Canopy Planet, India is well-positioned to be a global leader in next-generation eco-friendly fibres. The country has a large supply of alternative raw materials, made from textile waste, agricultural residues and industrial food waste. These can be transformed into cellulosic fibres for textiles and packaging. Additionally, India has a strong culture of innovation and is already the world’s second-largest producer of pulp from agricultural straw for packaging.
Canopy Planet is an environmental organisation focused on protecting forests. It collaborates with businesses to develop sustainable solutions, particularly within the paper, packaging and fashion industries, to reduce reliance on forests.
The 360 Degree Sustainability Shift
Experts said that their focus on sustainability is not just limited to products. The manufacturing industry has matured enough to look at sustainability from a 360-degree perspective.
“Sustainability is a comprehensive approach that goes beyond just the raw materials and the finished products. It involves optimising processes to reduce waste, minimise energy and water consumption and prevent pollution. A crucial, though often underappreciated, aspect of sustainability is the role of people. Their training, productivity and efficiency are essential to drive sustainable practices,” said Biji Chacko, COO, Alok Industries, one of India’s largest textile companies. The company had a revenue of Rs. 5,509 crore in 2024 and provides
| “Sustainability is a comprehensive approach that goes beyond just the raw materials and the finished products. It involves optimising processes to reduce waste, minimise energy and water consumption and prevent pollution.” Biji Chacko, COO, Alok Industries |
end-to-end solutions in key sectors like Home Textiles, Cotton Yarn, Apparel Fabric, Garments and Polyester Yarn.
The company plans to achieve a 10 per cent reduction in overall energy usage by 2025 compared to 2024 levels. The company is also set to increase its renewable energy integration primarily through solar energy installations. Moreover, Alok Industries is on track to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions by 50 per cent across operations by 2035.
“Soon, all our power will come from our solar power plant,” said Ajay Dodia, President, Om Creation, a Surat-based manufacturer and supplier of knitting fabric with a turnover of Rs. 100 crore.
Winsome Textile has also set up a 2.9 MW solar installation. Similarly, Best Corporation Pvt. Ltd., has achieved complete energy self-sufficiency, generating power from wind and solar sources while contributing excess energy back to the grid.
“All our natural dyes are biodegradable and we are shifting towards biodegradable chemicals in our processes. We are also introducing plant-based chemicals,” emphasised Harminder Singh, Marketing Head, SK Knit Fab, a Ludhiana-based manufacturer and exporter of premium knitted fabrics. Its American clients include Echo New York, Jockey, American Eagle Outfitters and Columbia.
This unwavering commitment positions India as a leader in sustainable fashion. In fact, sustainability could become India’s USP in the global apparel market. As international buyers increasingly prioritise eco-friendly production, India’s ability to deliver traceable, ethical and sustainable products will enhance its competitiveness and open new avenues for growth.
Trump or no Trump, the apparel industry’s sustainability efforts will keep growing!
