At the Functional Fabric Fair, PFAS compliance laws were a major topic of discussion. Steve McCullough, the event director, compared the issue to a cooking show discussing Teflon pans, showing how PFAS is known for its use in making textiles water and stain-resistant. Starting 1st January 2025, both New York and California will ban the sale of apparel and textiles containing PFAS, including outdoor gear.
Ammi Borenstein from Snaplinc Consulting spoke about the new regulations and their impact. She used an interactive survey to show that many people are still unaware of the new laws. New York’s law, which started in 2023, will extend the PFAS ban to outdoor gear by 2025 and to severe weather clothing by 2028. California’s AB 1817 covers more types of textiles, including shoes and leather, and a new law, AB 347, will require testing and registration with serious penalties for non-compliance.
These laws are aimed at addressing health risks linked to PFAS, which can cause cancer. Borenstein mentioned that testing garments costs only US $ 115, so state officials might use random testing and fines to enforce the laws. The US is moving faster than Europe on these regulations, affecting luxury brands that use PFAS in leather.
Brands will need to provide Certificates of Compliance to prove their products are free of PFAS. Testing labs like Intertek and SBS will be busy, and major retailers like REI and Dick’s Sporting Goods are already requiring compliance. Managing existing inventory will be a challenge as more states are expected to follow New York and California’s lead.
Marco Weichert from Performance Days discussed alternatives to PFAS, noting that while new options are available, they may not work as well and could require more maintenance from consumers. Keen, an outdoor footwear brand, has been working to remove PFAS since 2014, spending US $ 1 million to do so and sharing their methods with other brands.
Kirsten Blackburn from Keen stressed the need for the entire supply chain to work together to eliminate PFAS. She advised brands to set strict chemical policies and commit to long-term changes to ensure a PFAS-free future.
