The fashion industry’s enormous waste problem is driving governments across the world to set ambitious recycling targets. However, recycling textiles is a complex task and technical solutions are still in their early stages.
NGOs warn that the real issue is overproduction and that technological innovations might simply provide a facade for brands to continue producing billions of new clothes.
But, despite the complexities, the pressure to initiate large-scale recycling is intensifying. In response to this, brands need to achieve high levels of recycling at an unprecedented speed or else face massive fines.
Several innovative approaches are being explored to address the challenges of textile recycling. While many may not succeed, here are some current contenders that illustrate the diverse strategies being employed.
The fashion industry faces significant pressure to adopt effective recycling practices swiftly. While over-production remains a critical concern, these emerging technologies offer promising solutions to reduce waste and enhance sustainability.
The success of these innovations could play a crucial role in meeting the ambitious recycling targets set by governments and mitigating the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
MycoWorks: Mushroom Leather
MycoWorks is revolutionising the luxury materials market by cultivating mycelium, the root structure of fungi, to create a material that rivals traditional leather. Iconic brands such as Hermes and General Motors have already adopted this innovative ‘mushroom leather’ for their high-end luxury products, including car interiors.
The production process for MycoWorks’ mycelium-based leather is notably sustainable, requiring only sawdust as raw material and the energy consumption is minimal since mycelium doesn’t require light in order to grow and utilises very little water.
Unlike many emerging biomaterials companies that face challenges in scaling their operations, MycoWorks has successfully overcome these hurdles owing to the fantastic product solutions it offers. It proudly claims to be the first biomaterials company to inaugurate a full-scale manufacturing facility. Located in South Carolina, this factory began its operations with an initial harvest of 1,000 sheets of mycelium leather in January.
Circ: Unblending clothes
The fashion and apparel industry has long been posed with the challenge of recycling blended fabrics owing to their mixed material composition. Circ, a US-based company, has developed an innovative chemical solution to tackle this problem, specifically targeting polycotton, the most prevalent fabric blend.
Circ’s hydrothermal process effectively liquefies polyester, separating it from cotton fibres. This allows both materials to be recycled into new fibres, promoting a more sustainable fashion industry.
In a notable application of this technology, retail giant Zara incorporated Circ’s recycled fibres into a clothing line that was released in April this year.
Circ’s hydrothermal process effectively liquefies polyester, separating it from cotton fibres. This allows both materials to be recycled into new fibres, promoting a more sustainable fashion industry.
SuperCircle: Collecting and sorting
The world faces significant challenges in collecting and sorting large volumes of old clothes, which must remain clean and separate from other waste. SuperCircle addresses this issue by integrating delivery firms, warehouses and tracking systems to streamline and reduce the costs of the recycling process.
The company aims to shift public attitudes by offering in-store drop-off bins, free shipping labels and other incentives to encourage recycling. “We need ease, convenience and incentives for consumers so that when they are done with an item, the first thing they think is end-of-life recycling,” Stuart Ahlum, Co-founder of SuperCircle said. Currently, SuperCircle manages all recycling logistics for various companies and sectors, including Uniqlo North America.
SuperCircle aims to shift public attitude by offering in-store drop-off bins, free shipping labels and other incentives to encourage recycling.
Saentis Textiles: In-house recycling
Saentis Textiles has addressed the significant challenge in textile recycling with its patented machine that recycles cotton while preserving fibre quality, enabling the production of new high-quality textiles.
Its recycled cotton is already used by prominent brands such as IKEA, Patagonia and Tommy Hilfiger. Now, Saentis Textiles is selling this machine to textile companies, allowing them to install it directly in their factories. This enables on-the-spot recycling of cut-offs and scraps, further streamlining the recycling process.
This not only benefits the environment but also helps companies meet sustainability goals and regulatory requirements since in-house recycling contributes to a circular economy model, where materials are continually reused, reducing the demand for virgin resources and minimising the environmental impact.
Saentis Textiles holds a patent for its recycling machine, showcasing its innovation and leadership in textile recycling technology.
Unspun: 3D weaving machine
Unspun claims to have developed the world’s first 3D weaving machine, which can create a custom-sized pair of jeans directly from yarn in under 10 minutes. The machine is designed in a way that it can produce jeans tailored to individual body measurements, ensuring a perfect fit.
By using only the necessary amount of yarn for each item, the process reduces material waste significantly. This level of customisation helps reduce the number of ill-fitting clothes that often end up as waste in landfills.
Currently, Unspun is building its first micro-factory in Oakland, California to demonstrate this concept to the world. This innovative machine has the potential to eliminate the need for brands to maintain large inventories, thereby reducing waste and transportation costs dramatically.
Cetia: Preparing old clothes
Clothes require preparation before they can be recycled and this is the specialty of France-based Cetia.
Cetia offers a range of machines for this purpose. Some are straightforward, like a machine that yanks the soles off shoes, while others are more advanced, such as an AI-powered machine that identifies hard points like buttons and zippers and uses a laser to remove them without damaging the garment.
Cetia’s use of AI and laser technology represents a significant innovation in the textile recycling industry. The combination minimises waste and preserves the integrity of the recyclable material.
