The biggest requirement in leather, particularly shoes, is the durability of seams and the resistance to abrasion. Here threads play an important role and all major international players are striving not only to provide the basic requirements but also give value with new developments. The directions are in offering threads that are performance enhancing and aesthetic in appeal. Even embroidery thread providers are exploring new applications.Water resistance, fire retardant, bonding technology, combination of strength and lightness, sustainability, superior colour fastness and better sewability are but some of the core directions
Today, every thread manufacturer is addressing the requirement of specialized needs of the leather product being manufactured and constant R&D is the norm for adding value. “The requisite of abrasion resistance in shoes is basic and we are moving beyond to provide special application threads like anti-wicking (water repellent used mainly for winter shoes), antistatic, fire retardant and water soluble,” says Sanjeev Narula, Vardhman Threads. The company also offers specialized ‘look’ threads. “If someone wants glazed effect then the thread used in leather goods is different and we offer DuroGlace which is having polyester filament at core with cotton cover and then glazed to give shine,” says Narula. The main offerings from the company are Master (nylon 6.6 bonded), Teacher (nylon 6.6 lubricated), Taurus (CF polyester lubricated) for shoes, DuroGlace (polycotton corespun glazed) for leather apparels and bags and Mox (CF polyester/pc braids) for moccasins.
Specialized threads for the leather industry from Germany-based Amann are Serafil, Onyx/Strongbond and Serabraid. “Especially in India, Amann is very well known as the Serafil people. Serafil is a polyester continuous thread which covers a high tensile strength, an outstanding sewability and a beautiful brillance, “avers Sanjeev Grewal, Regional Director, Sales Department. Onyx a 100% Polyamide 6.6 thread and may be chosen as alternative to Serafil when a thread with superior tensile strength and excellent abrasion resistance is needed. Strongbond, a Polyamide 6.6. bonded thread, which shows its strenghts especially in multi-directional sewing – no opening of the thread due to bonding and therefore a very high seam stability, too can be used as an alternate.
“Serabraid features a very special look due to its braided construction and is the first choice for decorative seams,” says Grewal. For special applications AMANN recommends also corespun threads (SabaC and Rasant) as well as I-tech – a conductive thread with metal core. I-tech 20 is a polyamide-based conductive continuous filament with a polyester inox component (polyester/stainless steel). The metal component deflects electricity (anti-static sewing thread); therefore I-tech 20 can be used in safety shoes.
Giving value to the manufacturer is a priority with thread suppliers. Gutermann offers Gutermann Tera, a high quality polyester threads for the leather industry which is now available from small make up to larger make up to avoid unwanted inventory at manufacturer place. On the other hand, Coats offers Nylbond, a bonded Nylon thread made from pre-stabilized continuous filament Nylon 66 that cuts cleanly with no ply separation and provides superior abrasion resistance. The proprietary bonding technology yields a tough, uniform bond with exceptional peel strength in a soft, supple construction. It is recommended for high-end leather footwear, shoe uppers and leather goods.
Other offerings from Coats include Coats Aptan, a soft lubricated Nylon 66 thread with good abrasion resistance recommended for footwear and shoe uppers; Coats Gral a lubricated high tenacity polyester thread recommended for fine stitching of ladies footwear, leather goods and watch strap stitching, and Coats Terko Satin a polyester cotton corespun thread with a glace finish which exhibits very high abrasion resistance and recommend for leather garments and leather goods.
Among the interesting new developments in threads available in the market is with regards to bonding technology. Kanpur-based Threads (India) Ltd. (TIL), has done a good amount of research in this area and now offers NYBOND which is new type of soft bonding in both nylon and polyester filament threads that ensures that the seams looks beautiful, the thread is as soft as the leather it is being stitched on and the plies remain together under high wear and tear conditions also increasing the life of the leather footwear/garment. “There is a good amount of high speed machinery being developed to improve the speed of production. If the thread is not of good quality it will lead to breakages and entangling which will impact the worker efficiency,” reasons Ajay Lohia, MD, TIL.
New directions for R&D
Most of the thread companies are focusing on R&D to meet new norms in leather manufacturing. “AMANN threads are under constant technological control and set highest standards in its quality, variety and sewability. By permanently reviewing our threads and production processes, we are in a constant optimization process. Besides the optimization of the existing threads used in leather industry (e.g. regarding finishing, colours, sewability or performance) AMANN is developing new threads for specialized applications,” says Grewal. I-tech, a thread with conductive core, and the brandnew product Xtreme-tech by Dyneema a thread that features the same strength as steel (on a weight-to-weight basis) but is 15 times lighter is one such development.
As the leather industry in India is growing at a fast pace its requirements are also expanding. “At one end of the spectrum we have requirement for economy threads with the desired strength and elongation. But with more and more labels (both domestic and international) becoming quality-conscious… leather footwear and goods manufacturers want the best quality in the world which will not only increase the life of the product but also improve the beauty.
Also with REACH, OEKO-TEX banning more chemicals which are suspected to be harmful to the human body, the quality checks have become more elaborate to ensure all the threads meet the desired norms,” says Lohia.
Embroidery Threads for Leather
Madeira, a global embroidery and decorative thread supplier offers a complete colour and product range for leather shoes and bags. “We have special threads for leather industry like Polyneon40, Polyneon60; Metallic threads like FS8, FS12, FS30 & FS40; Matt Finish like Frosted Matt, Wool Acrylic Burmilana and in special cases Classic,” informs Akshay Kumar, National Manager, Madeira.
The metallic thread FS8 (5ply), FS12 (3ply) are decorative sewing threads with maximum abrasion resistance. The company is also offering a range of metallic colours in various counts which resist to oxidation being caused by residues of products used in the tannery or by other residues containing sulphur used in the production process of leather. Optimum sewing properties produce attractive visible threads impressions on shoes, jackets, leather bags and belts. FS30 is comparatively finer than FS8 & FS12 and more suitable for embroidery, has been developed for outdoor exposure.
Other unique embroidery threads include Supertwist (12 & 30), a metallic effect thread with deep structured colour shades and textures suitable for shoes, leather bags and garments. Polyneon is a shiny thread for embroideries of all kinds on leather shoes and bags with a maximum abrasion resistance. While, Polyneon40 is for a standard thickness for embroidery, Polyneon60 provides clear monogramming, filigree work, intricate details, & fine lettering. Another interesting offer is Burmilana, a speciality thread which has characteristics and appearance of wool, giving a hand-crafted look. This can be used on leather garment with particular appearance. Madeira has recently launched Frosted Matt, special chlorine resistant thread like FS8, FS12 for denim wash. “Frosted Matt is the world’s first truly Matt Finished thread for the leather industry,” claims Akshay.
After a tough year in 2009, the year 2010 has been a comeback year for the leather industry buoyed by support from both domestic and export markets. The year 2011 offers to be a year of promises with a good number of companies planning capacity enhancements and as quality and differential products become the key for success; new applications in thread will certainly support the industry in its growth path.
Bharat Tex Special Report 2026 
