At the heart of Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2024 runway in Milan’s Allianz Mico, a striking accumulation of cashmere flakes took centre stage, symbolising the innovation showcased in the menswear imprint’s laboratory. Creative director Alessandro Sartori describes this space as a constant exploration of new fabrications and forward-thinking clothing solutions tailored to the contemporary moment. The result unveiled on the runway was an open system, emphasizing versatility as its cornerstone.
The radiant heap, resembling the blending rooms at the Oasi Zegna headquarters in Trivero, Italy, featured the classic vicuna hue. Sartori’s vision transformed traditional pieces, such as the loden coat, with three layers of intricately stitched cashmere, creating a sandwich-like effect. A quilted jacket had a “sonic welded duvet,” nestled between two layers of cashmere. Sweaters with puckered sectionals, internal padding, and shaved cashmere exteriors were mostly served as the outermost layer in various ensembles.
This central textile took on a heroic role, enveloping double-collared blazers, collarless anoraks, blousons, vests, and the innovative “II Conte” jacket. Even gloves featured luxurious cashmere, occasionally adopting checks to complement patterned sweaters in the collection. Notably, even plongé leather jackets were backed with cashmere.
