Pattern-making is an essential element of garment design, and one crucial element is the sleeve. For years, garment manufacturers have played safe and used the quintessential sleeve to make their product saleable and reach out to a wider range of consumers. But lately, with this wave of innovation and experimentation touching the industry, many designers and exporters have started scooping in unconventional sleeve designs in their collections. After dropping hints of their presence on the S/S ’15 runways, five major unconventional sleeve patterns have emerged as the must-haves for the upcoming seasons. Picked up from different era of style and fashion, we present to you a range of flattering sleeves which will not only highlight the wearer’s best features but also tone down the flaws in the approaching summer…
Traditionally only looked upon as a part of a garment which covers the arms, sleeves have come a long way and now form a major element in inducing character in a piece of clothing. For each garment worn above the waist, the sleeves are one of the major experimental style statements. Sleeves have mostly stayed cap or straight, but now with the revival of the 70s, and drawing inspiration from many related movements, the following sleeves have emerged as optional picks.
Structured Bell Sleeves
One of the most visible trends this year is the throwback to the 60s bell sleeve, but with a structured twist. Flattering on the arms, the structured bell sleeves are a perfect choice for the summer and fall collections. A structured bell sleeve looks almost like a normal bell sleeve with either long or short flares towards the bottom. The only difference is the length and the amount it flares. Structured bell sleeve try and mimic the butterfly sleeves with less flare and shirring. Inder Mohan Bhambri, Director, Srigan Exports, talking about the structured bell sleeves said, “We are incorporating loose sleeves in our shirts for women. These sleeves are not very flared, neither are they too tight. These sleeves are fuller than a straight sleeve and narrower than a butterfly bell sleeve.”
Extra-long Sleeves
Another extraordinary sleeve trend on the runways was the extra-long sleeve that finishes inches past the wrist bone in line with the trends of fluid and oversized fit. It’s an on trend silhouette for knitwear and jersey knit tops where these long sleeves are created with knitted fringes as seen in the S/S ’15 collection of Gareth Pugh. The more mass suitable version of this sleeve length works from a practical point of view because of its very tapered and structured shape on the forearm, making the sleeves stay put without falling over your hands and fingers. The runway versions of the same showcased by the likes of Hood by Air, Rick Owens, presents sleeves which aren’t tapered, look overly long, and therefore fall longer than the hands. The extra length looks luxurious, and visually elongates the arms, creating proportions. Rocking it as a conservative sleeve variation, these are being paired with high-neck dresses with shorter hemline and cropped tops.
Puffy Sleeves
As shoulders are emerging as the new legs in the fashion world, designers are experimenting with crazy versions of this feminine new puff sleeve trend. Puff sleeves are a lighter version of pleated cap sleeves and peasant sleeves. Puff sleeves are so versatile that whether it’s a fancy flounce on a little black dress or a swell of fabric on a vintage bolero, they make a silhouette soft yet dramatic. S/S ’15 runways at Chloe, Valentino and many others provided perfect examples for how to best execute this festive detail. A puffy sleeve can accentuate a tiny waist or willowy frame by drawing the eye upward and conveys a sense of confidence. Manish Sareen, President, Sangar Overseas confirmed the fact that puff sleeves have re-emerged in the runways and have high chances of being carried forward in the coming seasons.
70s Retro Bell Sleeves
This is the flauntier and more feminine version of the structured bell sleeve, translated in soft fabrics. The 70s bell sleeve is probably the only style of clothing that has the power to simultaneously conjure images of medieval maidens, and Austin Powers’ babes. Recently seen draped in the arms of Chloe, Lanvin and Luisa Beccaria, the bell sleeves appeared longer and relegated than their usual status. Notified as the translation of romance in sleeves, bell sleeves are statement-making in full-volume and fluted variety. Thanks to their notice-me nature, this trend is attracting the attention of street fashion and high-end brands. Abhishek Kochhar, CEO, Diamond Overseas (India), discussing about revival of bell sleeves said, “We are working with young contemporary fashion, which is targeted towards the younger girls, not for ladies. And for them the product line includes, beach cover-ups, kaftans, mostly with bell, loose peasant and kimono style sleeves.”
Kimono Sleeves
Kimono-style sleeves and necklines are showing up on dresses and cover-ups in all manner of styles since the last 3 seasons, but what is different about these kimono sleeves are the slits in the mid. These kimono sleeves, also referred to as zippered kimono sleeves, are the hype this season, making many designers incorporate this detail into their collections. Whether the outfits are chic and colourful, hippie-worthy featuring oriental prints or graphically modern in stark black, kimono sleeves in all sizes and flare are being pointed out as the front-runners.
Kimono sleeve are wide loose short or wrist length sleeves obtained from traditional Japanese dresses adapted for today’s fashion. Kimono sleeves are the most popular sleeve styles with the exporters and are being developed in three major varieties. Butterfly kimono sleeve, which starts at the shoulder and becomes wider while coming down, not more than 4-5 inches; Long kimono sleeve, which extend below the wrist; and finally Short kimono sleeve, that are cut just under the shoulder. Agreeing to the greater demand for kimono sleeves in the market, Fabrice Capron, Designer, Rupayan shared, “We are mostly creating silhouettes like loose blouses with kimono sleeves.” Let’s hope to enjoy watching these sleeve trends in full blow in upcoming runways and we wish to see them enter into retail space as well!
