by Anjori Grover Vasesi
09-September-2019 | 8 mins read
Over the years as fashion has evolved, so has its focus…
From making a statement, to standing out in the crowd, to embracing avantgarde concepts, to voicing the overall outlook of an entire generation – fashion has its power strongly rooted in its groundwork.
But as years progressed, so did the mindset and consciousness of those producing and consuming it.
The runways of Spring/Summer 2020, much like the previous few runway presentations, served to deliver a message and promised a lot more than just garments with environmental awareness and inclusivity at their core.
Market dominators such as Fendi, Giorgio Armani, among many others, adopted the route towards more natural and organic fabrics in shades of green, khaki, bleached out pastels and mustards for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2020 season. Prints and patterns focused on natural and botanical motifs such as fresh blooms, tropical leaves and exotic flora.
Inclusivity and equality were successfully championed not only with the selection of designers who showcased on the international runways, but also via genderless silhouettes, as men sported fluid silhouettes in pastel tones – including pinks and violets.
Soft, plush leathers and PVC emerged in interesting concoctions with designers utilising techniques such as laser cutting and ruching, drawing our attention to the severe damage caused to our environment by the use of such materials.
Utility and comfort were at the forefront with relaxed silhouettes, multiple larger-than-life pockets, and safari cargo addressing functionality, whilst satin overcoats, jazzy vests, oversized preppy shirts offered a breathable alternative to the rising temperatures.
What an interesting time to be in menswear fashion! Read on to discover the top fashion trends spotted at the recently concluded menswear shows that took place in London, Milan, Paris and New York to gain perspective for various categories of Spring/Summer 2020.
From diaphanous shirts and trench coats, to gauzy tracksuits, to seethrough windcheaters, to delicate fabrics like tulle, organza and mesh, S/S ’20 is talking about transparency in a big way.
The runway saw the mingling of a diverse range of techniques, with few key pieces seeing the fusing of appliqué and sheer cloth, print on organza T-shirts and translucent vests made out of mesh fabric.
Designers from London and Milan presented an assortment of designs from pellucid long coats to opaque jackets with utilitarian pockets, but Paris went sheer. Dior presented standout organza jackets and double toned sheer jackets, Qasimi presented diaphanous pink tracksuits, Craig Green played with ruching techniques and neons, John Lawrence Sullivan experimented with black mesh T-shirts, whilst the see-through vests by Dries Van Noten created a breezy vibe. Coalesce of multi-layered tulle over shirts and cargo pants at Louis Vuitton were also a big hit.
Utility Meets Freedom
The trend for putting comfort over style has been a key driving factor in fashion since the past few seasons, and without a doubt, the trend is catching fire with each season.
Utilitarian details swamped the runways with designers and brands going all out with cargo pants, multiple-pocket jackets vests, fanny packs, clip buckle hardware closures over belts, and larger than life standout pockets.
Fendi and Dolce and Gabbana made a strong case for safari-inspired multi-pocket detailing, whilst Feng Chen Wang and Liam Hodges had their sight set on cargo pants. Jordanluca experimented by introducing slits over cargo pants while Liam Hodges played safe with wide leg forms.
Designers have bookmarked shine and sheen in their guidebooks of what sells. Taking a cue from womenswear, satin is trending under materials for the upcoming S/S ’20 season.
The close weaves of the satin fabric lend it a glossy and fluid surface, which have made the soft fabric a commercial success with even mass retailers such as Zara and ASOS and Topshop.
Charles Jeffrey showcased the glossy fabric over floor-grazing capes, two-piece suits and frock coats, whilst Saint Laurent utilised the slinky material for harem pants. Dolce and Gabbana accentuated the fabric with tropical prints, whilst Edward Crutchley and Kiko Kostadinov experimented by incorporating high-shine finishes in patterned shirts, head dresses and hammered jockey bomber jackets.
Kim Jones presented draped fabrics with shiny overcoats, customised suits and some interesting designs of blazers.
Waxen shades of blue, pallid purples, pretty pinks and some minty greens dominated the international runways.
Looks inspired by athleisure, utilitarian and street style were presented in sorbet tones usually associated with womenswear, to channel in the upcoming balmy days. This just goes out to cement the fact that gender-fluid fashion is a ruling factor for both menswear as well as womenswear designers and brands, alike.
From Louis Vuitton to Dior to Jacquemus, the runways were flooded with soothing pastels that softened even the roughest looks.
No longer reserved for the boudoir, vests are now an acceptable form of public dressing.
Or the same has to be believed after what ensued on the runways of our international fashion capitals in these past few weeks.
Updating an essential part of the men’s wardrobe to a statement piece, S/S ’20 saw designers and high fashion labels experiment with a plethora of techniques and fabrications.
Fendi went for knitted vests in colours borrowed from the nature, Laces were the go-to at Dsquared, and Dries Van Noten opted for well-finished leather vests whilst Stefan Cooke presented innovative ways of cut-out patterns.
Room to Breathe
This season, designers and brand did not shy away from playing with proportions and exaggerated silhouettes. Classic menswear codes interjected with a young and boyish feel to update tailoring.
Keeping the streetwear aesthetic in mind, layering emerged as strong technique across categories.
Prada, Louis Vuitton, Kiko Kostadinov, Emporio Armani and Dolce and Gabbana, all played with relaxed and free-flowing silhouettes – a special mention to the super baggy and oversized T-shirt here – thereby allowing ample room to breathe and move in the hotter months.
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