Fashion weeks at New York and London are recognized primarily for their chic yet understated style, relying heavily on silhouettes appropriate for the ready-to-wear segment. Designers in New York aimed at tapping the work wear category focusing on relaxed silhouettes and menswear fabrics as the long coats, wide-legged pants and unisex blazers would have us believe. London, on the other hand, revelled in glamour for appeal, even though it was coloured in a rather unassuming demeanour. So while there were separates which aligned with ones shown at New York, equally intriguing were lace, peek-a-boo gowns, flirty ruffled dresses, sequin splashed garments and more importantly, the hybrid skirts and dresses, which have a vast scope as standalone separates.
As for Milan and Paris, glamour never fails to make a mighty appearance on the runways of these cities, apparent in the structures of avant-garde silhouettes and in the sheen of oxidized jacquards. From mid-century romances to eerie fairy tales to iconic folk loric tales, designers dived in a plethora of inspirations. So while the medieval air brought with it full covered cloaks, dramatic necklines and razor sharp pleats, running parallel with it was a warrior like sensibility which boasted of heavy metal work, harness straps and caged bodices. As outerwear – in lacquered jacquards, knits and wool – became even more oversized, resembling mystical capes, dark fairy tales could be deduced as the obvious subject of inspiration. Intricate beadwork on flared dresses together with whimsical appliqué, spanning from squirrels to oriental blooms, celebrated designers’ fascination for the surreal. Basking in a similar vibe, lurex knits imparted knitwear with a particularly perky demeanour, making the category even more exciting. [tabs_container style=”style1″ maincolor=”#000000″ overcolor=”#dd3333″]
[tab title=”Knitting Capes”]
Following pre-fall’s mania of cape coats, designers have transcended to knits for constructing roomy throwovers with a visibly cosy demeanour. While the ones in flat knits have come across as sweater kimonos – in some cases printed and in some with thick cable knits – circular knits too make a promising appearance. Form-fitting pullovers with an attached shoulder trail or ponchos delivered in blanket fabric ending in tassels, the circular knit styles appeal for their lighter structure and contoured fit. Cardigans have also found a way with the trend as they have been constructed on the lines of long cape coats – with sleeves and droopy shoulders. [/tab]
[tab title=”The Robe Coat”]
Leaving pre-fall’s fascination with the bulky blanket coats behind, this fall, the runway was flooded with the robe coat. The uncomplicated silhouette achieved novelty in various different prints and fabrics with Christian Siriano presenting a fuzzy emerald coat, cinched with a leather belt and Richard Chai featuring in his oversized plaid checks. Peter Som, The Row and Tory Burch focused on comfort with fabric belts tightened at the waist, keeping the cosy in, whereas, Altuzzara went for exaggeration by opting for lapels in a solid colour blocked version. Coats that actually keep warm on chilly winter nights are now a mainstream trend, with forgiving lengths and being paired with pants, leggings or simply as separates.
[/tab]
[tab title=”Dainty Details”]
Transparency didn’t end with spring; it has simply been revamped for winter. Affixing sequin to sheer separates, imparts a refreshing look to both the trends, as does embroidery – in coloured and metallic versions. Another element that has been used is satin or velvet fabric, on georgettes, chiffons or lace surfaces. While some designers worked the trend onto tunic dresses splashed in multi-coloured sequin in architectural patterns, others merged satin patches cut in red, pink and shimmer onto a floral patterned black lace ensemble. Sequin and droplet beads served as the perfect value addition in case of a sultry black sheer dress covered in a harlequin pattern. Reinterpretation of sassy workwear was seen on sheer tops which were sparingly laid with delicate velvet. [/tab]
[tab title=”Intricate Laser”]
Reserving a spot in the back row, laser cut maybe not immediately but definitely breathed fresh air into collections. Something out of a psychology laboratory, designers created their own versions of the Rorschach test, interpreting it in whatever they perceived and the next person conceiving it just as differently. From all-over cut-outs on dresses, revealing a layered fabric within to peek-a-boo cut-outs at random revealing nothing but skin, fabrics used varied from suede to leather to continuous appearances by felt.
[/tab]
[tab title=”Skirt in disguise”]
Hybrid has been the mood of the season and as its application leaves no silhouette, it is most definite that the idea of fusion is one to be carried forth a season or two. Fall will see the advent of the deconstructed skirt, which takes elements from not only lowers but, in an experimental streak borrows elements from formal outerwear. The wrap slit skirt of spring has been structured like languid culottes and draped trousers in some cases and in some, as a trail on roomy shorts. More innovative versions of the wrap skirt, where bondage closures circle the wrap along with a tied version, which bears resemblance with the lower half of an overcoat, offer multiple possibilities of the trend. [/tab]
[/tabs_container]
