Other than in formal shirts, the detailing of the wrist part of a dress is almost every time neglected owing to other parts getting more attention. But suddenly a change is being seen, and as international designers show signs of experimentation on cuff detailing and though garment manufacturers are playing safe and using the quintessential sleeve to make their product saleable and reach out to a wider range of consumers to match with innovations hinted on the runways, they too are scooping in unconventional cuff designs in their collections. After dropping hints of a presence that cannot be ignored on the A/W ’15-16 runways, six major cuff styles have emerged as the ‘must-haves’ for the upcoming A/W ’16-17 seasons. These flattering cuffs picked up from different eras of style and fashion, will find visibility in the forthcoming Fall season…
A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms. The functional purpose of turned cuffs is to protect the material from fraying and, now the cuffs are more aesthetic apart from being functional. Cuffs have mostly stayed barrel or french, but now drawing inspiration from sleeve and hem styles, flared, asymmetric, puffy and Victorian lace versions, are emerging as intelligent variations. PD teams at export houses have started to pay more attention to cuff styling, moving away from putting efforts on the entire sleeve and some of the styles that are finding their way into collections are highlighted.
Victorian
One of the most favourite and used trend this year is the throwback to the Victorian-inspired cuffs but with a modern twist…, the flipside to the freewheeling psychedelia that has filtered into Victorian interpretations. Often dismissed as priggish, the six decades of Queen Victoria’s reign were also an aesthetically rich time. And now that time has entered today’s collections in form of lace layered cuffs. Translated mostly in whites and blacks, delicate laces can be seen being overlapped and ruffled as cuffs. Ramnik Singh Uppal, Director, RGC Industries Limited, talking about Victorian cuffs said, “We are incorporating loose cuffs in our shirts for women. These cuffs are not very flared; neither are they too tight. These cuffs are fuller than a straight cuff and narrower than a butterfly bell cuff.”
Extra Long
An extra-ordinary cuff trend on the runways was the extra long cuff that finishes inches past the wrist bone in line with the trends of fluid and oversized fit. The more mass suitable version of this cuff length works from a practical point of view because of its very tapered and structured shape on the forearm, making the cuffs stay put without falling over your hands and fingers. The runway versions of the same showcased by the likes of Ninna Ricci, Rick Owens, presented cuffs falling longer than the hands. The extra length looks luxurious, and visually elongates the arms, creating proportions. Rocking it as a conservative cuff variation, these are being paired with high-neck dresses with shorter hemline and cropped tops.
70s Retro Bell
Recently seen draped in the arms of Celine, Lanvin and Luisa Beccaria, the bell cuffs appeared longer and relegated than their usual status. Notified as the translation of romance in cuffs, bell cuffs are statementmaking in full-volume and fluted variety. Thanks to their notice-me nature, this trend is attracting the attention of street fashion and high-end brands. Anuradha Goel, CEO, Style India Fashion, confirms the revival of bell cuffs. “We are working with young contemporary fashion, which is targeting towards the younger girls, not for ladies. And for them the product line includes, tops, blouses mostly with bell, loose peasant style cuffs,” she informed.
Puffy
Puff cuffs are a lighter version of pleated cap sleeves and peasant sleeves. Puffy cuffs have completely been lifted from the shoulders and pasted onto the wrists. Puff cuffs are so versatile that whether it’s a fancy flounce on a little black dress, or a swell of fabric on a vintage bolero, they make a silhouette soft yet dramatic. Runways at Rodarte, Valentino and many others provided perfect examples for how to best execute this festive detail. A puffy cuff can accentuate a tiny waist or willowy frame by drawing the eye upward and conveys a sense of confidence. Manish Sareen, President, Sangar Overseas substantiated the fact that puff cuffs have reemerged on the runways and have high chances of being carried forward in the coming seasons.
Fur All The Way
Sidelining every other style, designers like Michael Kors, Coach, Celine and Gucci chose to emphasize sleeves with muff-style fur fluffy cuff panels. Sinfully soft and ridiculously warm, designers didn’t shy away from using fur for Fall collections. Different coloured dyed Faux-Fur was seen wrapped around the wrists. The style not only provided extra warmth but also adds a tinge of luxury to a customary style. This idea has yet to pick up with Indian manufacturers.
Off-centre Slit
Anticipated to be one of the biggest trends in formalwear next season, off-centre slit cuffs have got what it takes to be a versatile look. An off-centre slit cuff is any cuff that looks different on either side of the centre front of the wrist. It can be cut differently or it could be the same, but one side is folded down while the other is fastened up. Although the ramps are full of asymmetrical designs from various designers yet the concept of creating an off-centre cuff is comparatively new to the exporters. Monika Anand, MD, Raindrop Fashions explains further, “The modern innovations are many yet the basic concept is the same. The entire geometry and symmetry involved in the design of dresses experiment complete freedom and break away from the rigid lines of symmetry.”
