by Anjori Grover Vasesi
10-July-2018 | 7 mins read
The menswear industry has grown up considerably in the past few seasons both in terms of offerings and purchasing. This spike is directly emblematic of the cited importance for designers and brands to focus on new ideas for the future of young men who will become our core consumers.
The industry today is more focused on the reality of an increasingly casual lifestyle of men and is concentrating on what their unvoiced needs are. Even top luxury players are fine-tuning their products to appease the next generation; giving the end-user the modernity they crave for, balanced with the ethos of tradition that the brands stand for and abide by.
Among the reigning trends at the runways of London, Milan and Pitti Uomo, streetwear and fluro emerged to be few of the most thriving categories, closely followed by sustainability and outdoor activewear. Outdoor/hiking continues to influence a plethora of designers as is visible in a wide assortment of tech jackets and trousers, as well as in a range of trekking shoes and boots.
The sports tech trend continues to evolve; there has been a marked shift from jersey tracksuits and sweats towards pieces made using tech fabrics with a hiker influence, such as cargo pants and high vis detailing.
An avid exploration of proportion continues to develop in the menswear world. There has been demise from hyper-exaggerated and oversized pieces to place an emphasis on tailoring, structure and fabrics. Distressed denim, big prints and oversized shapes are becoming less common in favour of cleaner silhouettes and understated details.
Also, heavily branded, monogrammed and overt graphics and visuals have been around for a while now. As a response, we saw a much-needed shift towards a more minimal and refined approach to design and fabrics.
Team FFT analyses and puts together a round-up of the key menswear trends for Spring/Summer 2019 so far, from the showcases presented up till now at London, Milan and Pitti Uomo.
A heady dose of head-to-toe mixtures of prints and patterns mashed up against each other in reckless abandon seem to be the name of the game this season. Designers did not shy away from going OTT with the trend by using the likes of florals against stipes, linear patterns against abstract references to create bold, outlandish looks.
As the lines between genders continue to diminish, it was observed that more and more menswear designers have started incorporating floral prints within their collections.
A combination of Cuban collar shirts with swimming trunks or bermuda shorts seem like the perfect answer to extreme summer woes. For Spring/Summer 2019, designers and high fashion brands alike are channelling peak Miami vacation wardrobe vibes by pairing print on print, generously patterned half sleeved shirts with shorts.
A wide variety of styles that channelled in a summer holiday mood, were presented including MSGM’s inclination towards a tropical inspiration and Hunting World’s presentation of a clashing print option, among others.
With the casual sport influence on the rise, a new theme that essentially revolves around the idea of merging tennis with streetwear and advanced high-tech fabrics has come to the fore. Tailored constructions are a key focus as performance and comfort give way to relaxed layered pieces and fluid fabrics in deconstructed jackets, sporty body-hugging tanks, lightweight joggers and colour blocked tracksuits.
Tailoring is back on the rise as a greater focus is being put on tailoring, structure and fabrics. A fresh return of double-breasted jackets and refined silhouettes as well as novelty-striped deconstructed jackets, pants and shirts are in an upsurge for the warmer months.
Sartorial styles still reign with soft jackets, pleated trousers and an addition of volume in silhouettes.
The outdoor-inspired activewear segment continues to drive in a lot of demand. Technical fabric innovations in the outerwear category and utilitarian details prove to be a big hit for Spring/Summer 2019.
Raincoat-inspired styles in a combination of silk and nylon, washed bomber jackets, and transparent layers are trending. There is a shift towards a more minimal and refined approach to design and technical fabrics as well as performance properties such as water-repellency, wind breaking and weather proofing.
As the temperatures soar, the lengths drop!
Shorts in all shapes and sizes have been everywhere at London and Milan for Spring/Summer 2019. From ultra-short lengths at Prada to overflowing styles at Billionaire to a sophisticated set at Oliver Spencer, there are a wide variety of options to divulge in for the approaching season.
The tropical focus of past seasons has been updated with more sophistication.
A classic in its own regard, stripes have been redesigned and reintroduced for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2019 season.
Bidding adieu to a mash up of lengths, widths and different colours, designers and high-fashion brands unanimously opted to give a twist to the archetypical linear pattern by presenting it in a horizontal format.
The lines are bigger, wider and bolder running across – either throughout or as a design element over shirts, jerseys, bombers and even soft sweaters.