This season calls for one and all to forget the rules by which menswear has been known to operate by, in the past – the season calls for breaking stereotypes and going all out when it comes to comfort and practicality.
The last few years have seen the menswear segment embrace experimentation and challenge societal norms – a trend we see continuing in the years to come.
Dopamine dressing, garments that induce childlike wonder, functional and loose-fitting trousers, a denim renaissance and a prominent shift towards comfort-first fits dictate the theme of the season.
There is a marked exit from menswear’s classic definition as we see an upsurge of gender bending styles and gender-neutral dispositions not only in terms of the kind of clothing that has been presented, but also in terms of participation of various genders this season. An increasing number of women flocked both the runway and the front row.
Female models were seen walking countless shows during the Spring/Summer 2023 shows, including at Vetements, Marine Serre, Ahluwalia and Louis Vuitton. The female influence also came through in the designs – be it at Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Thom Browne or Ami, amongst others.
Global market leaders, such as Prada, Dior, Fendi and Versace, were seen directly addressing the demands of the consumer and presenting garments decked with higher functionality, and a more casual interpretation, one that just doesn’t make a case for the runways but is also apt for everyday living.
We take a look at the key trends and projections set to impact the upcoming Spring/Summer 2023 season for menswear.
DENIM DAZE
Denim-on-denim cemented its spot in the fashion rulebook way back in the 2000s but is a trend that designers and consumers alike can’t get enough of.
This season, brands shift gears to break whatever (imaginary) rules surround this way of styling to introduce an ‘as you please’ notion.
Move over trucker-jacket–and-jeans combo, the modern man is eyeing booty shorts at Prada, denim shawl and boots at Y/Project, Jeans on jeans on jeans encrusted with pearl embellishments at Casablanca – the world is their oyster!
CHILDLIKE WONDER
As the world reels from the current state of affairs, be it on political front or health front, people have been left yearning for their younger days when everything was simple and full of love.
We see the emotion being gratified on the runways with youthful nostalgia occupying centre stage.
Prada brought forth the emotion via oversized gingham, Louis Vuitton presented numerous looks in vibrant primary colours coupled with childlike chunky beads, whilst Dolce & Gabbana came up with sports fan T-shirts, and JW Anderson went quite literal with a stripe-on-stripe print juxtaposed with a boy biting into an apple – all reminiscent of adolescence.
ONE WITH NATURE
The fashion and textile industry is currently regarded as the second most polluting industry in the world – a fact that has been coming to light more and more with every passing day, so much so that consumers are now positively reinforcing brands to take action to tackle fashion’s waste problem.
And as is the case with the industry, anything on the minds and lips of consumers finds a direct outlet in terms of seasonal trends.
The urgency around waking up and acting dominated the runways with Loewe’s statement-making coats spurting with grass, to Dior’s whimsical garden-inspired collection, to Giorgio Armani’s lifelike prints.
PYJAMA DRESSING
If there is one thing that the pandemic has heightened in terms of the way people live – it is comfort.
And there is no way consumers are letting go of that need anytime soon.
Being locked up and restricted to the confines of their homes, consumers found solace in lounging all day in their favourite pyjamas from doing everything to nothing in them.
The trend solidifies for the Spring/Summer 2023 season as designers and high fashion brands give in to consumer’s demands by introducing a plethora of stylish options for pyjama dressing.
From luxe satin sets, to striped versions complete with a matching robe, to printed sets coupled with a dressier blazer and scarf meant for a more formal setting –pyjamas are changing the status quo and emerging as the hottest trend of the season.
SPORTS REDUX
After spending endless days cooped up on their couches amidst the pandemic, and binge-eating while binge-watching series marathons on Netflix, consumers have a newfound desire to hit the gym and get in shape – but with style!
Designers and brands present a variety of options in the segment – backed with technological advancements such as lightweight and breathable fabrics, moisture wicking and quick drying characteristics and 360 degree stretch benefits.
Eyeing the massive demand in the sector, many brands and designers have also launched their own sub-brands catering to sports and fitness categories, as well as launched limited edition collaborative collections with some of the top names in movies, sports and music industries.
DOPAMINE DRESSING
Another offset of the pandemic and the current happenings around the world, the need for ‘feel-good’ experiences has heightened in the recent past.
Enter the growing trend of dopamine dressing – an already well-established trend in the womenswear segment that is now setting forth to dominate menswear.
A term first coined by American Fashion psychologist Dr. Dawn Karen, dopamine dressing is essentially dressing that can boost your mood. By wearing a certain colour, texture or style, we can activate the release of dopamine, the feel-good chemical our bodies make.
In keeping with the same, Spring/Summer 2023 is awash with vibrant, happy colours and patterns and prints that inject positivity and hope.
NECK TIES
With formalwear and workwear having taken a backseat in the last couple of years, neck ties emerge as the surprise accessory for the Spring/Summer 2023 season.
Statement looks were presented by MSGM, which styled double ties in their collection, and KidSuper, which presented an oversized version whilst Celine presented shrunk versions of ties.
For the season, the timeless accessory comes in all shapes and sizes – we spotted skinny, linear ones at Celine, gentlemanly at Prada, striped ones at Kenzo and even leather at Craig Green!
COWBOY CHIC
The wild wild West has taken over the Spring/Summer 2023 season with Western influences dominating both the streets and the runways.
Casablanca went all out with yokes as pretty much the theme of the collection, whilst others, such as Ami and Dries Van Noten, weren’t as in the face but sent a subtle nod towards the trend. Tiny bandanas worn around the neck, paired with dark denim and pointed boots made the case for multiple collections.
