by Shubhi Srivastava
22-April-2019 | 9 mins read
Leaving behind the mega-trend the runways abided to, which was of and for the masses, the silhouettes and details this Fall season were nothing but extra detailing, volume and ostentatious. The designers served a plethora of silhouettes that played on bigger volumes that were further elevated with value addition detailing, making the level of exaggeration at par with that of the haute couture shows- all across the ramps of the fashion capitals, big and small alike.
The street silhouettes such as the bicycle shorts and oversized outerwear gave way to slightly edgier, more fashion forward looks that were closer to the body form, with the addition of smaller statement details such as tie-up and draped floppy neck ties and gloves. Synonymous with the powerful, yet gracious modern woman, the one trend that emerged in a big way was the cape for Fall/Winter 2019.
Fur and feather were the biggest value addition details for Fall 2019, effectively adding to the voluminous silhouettes trend. The data gathered by Edited.com also indicates that one of the most common furry materials, the Teddy fabric apparel sell outs saw a 42% increase from Fall 2017 when it came to the retail side. This texture is still prominent for outerwear alongside fleece and shaggy feather.
Making accessories the focal point for the entire ensemble this season was an intelligent decision on the part of designers as market studies by Shopify suggest that the bags and accessories segment, although still growing at a stronger rate, saw a double-digit growth in 2018 amounting to 15.6% and is expected to grow by 8.7% in 2022. These projections actually make accessories the healthiest segment of e-commerce fashion as well. Mirroring the growing affinity of consumer groups towards accessorising, designers showcased heavily accessorised attires on the runways- from chunky or multi-tiered chains to tie-up knots and waist belts. Luxury champions such as Chanel, Gucci and Versace kept up with the logomania memo, with belts and chains branded with their logos and iconic signatory charm detailing.
The grandiose trend direction the silhouettes and details will take in the Fall/ Winter 2019 season is as follows:
High On Volume
All things volume seemed to be the memo designers followed to the T as overall voluminous silhouettes have proven to be a mainstay trend this season. The lines between couture fashion and prêt-à-porter blurred as heavy gowns in tiered tulle, in round, balanced gathered and fluffy details and in big and small bunched ruffles graced the runways.
A few fashion forward elements also made way for the volume trend as Moncler, the puffer jacket genius, showcased a collection of over the top puffer fabric gowns and cape dresses in collaboration with Pierpaolo Piccioli- striking the balance between outdoor fashion and evening wear done like never before. JW Anderson and Richard Quinn added to the trend with boxy and structured oversized top and bottom sets.
The boxy and undefined silhouette might have taken centre stage for the Spring Summer season, but the runways this time cinched away from the trend as belts were a major design detail the designers followed. From long trench to short knit coats along with dresses and corset bodice tops, belts in different materials ranging from the classic faux leather to eccentric metallics and velour controlled the loose silhouettes.
The belts were also draped to form a part of the garment, with addition of chunky buckles sewn into the bodice, while tie-ups, helm-belts, structured belts and hybrids of sashes with belts also constituted a part of this trend.
The superwoman was redefined on the runways with the utilisation of capes with diversified range of silhouettes. Designers incorporated the cape silhouette, either structured and firm or flowy and light, cleverly into the garments over dresses, jackets and pantsuits as well.
Blumarine and Elie Saab kept it feminine with long tie-up cape endings added to glamorous evening gowns and light daywear dresses, while Dolce & Gabbana took cues from a playful wardrobe with fur-ended mesh capes over short ballerina sweetheart dresses. Other designers remained true to their quirky fashion statements as A.W.A.K.E. Mode, Balmain opted for structured and power shoulder eccentric silhouette cape jackets and Manish Arora extended the classic scarf to present statement capes.
What shouts out volume other than the classic feather? As collections moved away from the OTT value addition detail, the sequins, they went on to the next best thing- feathers. The feather weather took inspiration from actual bird kingdom as designers opted for realistic feathers juxtaposed over the sleeves of the garments, to match the aesthetics of a winged bird.
The trend presented itself in numerous ways with ensembles that included dresses in alternating feather and metallic tiers, jackets and tie-up neck midi dresses in overall ruffled feathers, heavy long-feather statement hats along with dresses formed by harmonious mosaic of mesh and short feather value addition.
Gloved To Perfection
Victorian fashion seeped through the modern silhouettes with the resurgence of statement gloves, which were even hyped to form the focal point of the entire ensemble by few fashion forward designers. Boxy and oversized sleeves were constricted at the helm using these gloves, that were present in a multitude of fabrics across collections.
In mesh, PU, metallics, and in fabrics printed to contrast the overall look, these gloves were present in varying lengths, with more inclination towards longer gloves crossing the elbow to make the reverse 3-4th sleeves. Dramatic gloves also peeped through the collections to complement the main garment, from tiered and flouncy satin gloves to metallic mesh evening wear gloves.
The Chained Effect
Accessorising was a key trend followed for Fall Winter 2019 runway collections and chains emerged out on the top for the same. The metallic aesthetics chains add to the looks made designer manipulate the trend in various ways to champion the chained effect.
Alexander McQueen and Altuzarra kept it simple by using chains in varying sizes as waist and cross-body belts while Balmain, Bottega Veneta, and Burberry incorporated the chain value addition into their garments on either necklines or running through mini dresses giving the illusion of a huge zipper. Marine Serre, Paco Rabanne and Marni took it up a notch by presenting feathered and chained necklines, over-all chain dresses and caged chain corsets respectively.
Pushing aside the mega-trend of the season gone by, scarves, the fashion runways witnessed a more convenient alternate- the floppy ties, or tie-up necks. Whether placed over summer dresses, checkered shirts, winter sweats or formal suiting, floppy ties are definitely in for the next season.
Designers justified the trend in various ways, as the ties were matched in material with the actual bodice, or were draped over the neck in heavier, contrasting fabrics. The lengths of these ties were kept experimental, either complementing or contrasting with the topwear, with more preference given to shorter, yet heavily gathered neck pieces.
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