Fashion for the forthcoming season is all about clashing textures, and leather is one such material which stands as a multi-faceted medium to give out distinctive patterns and designs. Leather seems to be on the way forward this season. Skirts, skinnies or satchels; whatever be the style, it is being created in leather. This classic, luxe fabric is being waxed, washed, dyed, printed and manipulated to achieve varied outputs. Wherever you turn, there are leather sleeves, contrast panels, metallic bags, pockets or shiny lining. From bomber jackets and skirts to shoes and bags, leather with its elegant and chic-look became designers’ collection staple at the recent Fall ’15 RTW runways.
Continuing to make inroads in the industry, value addition on leather has caught up speed in the last 5 years and since then there has been no turning back. Be it digital printing, dyeing, marbling, laser cutting or finishing of leather, each medium is explored again and again to develop one of a kind textures and propose something new to the industry to choose from. Layering leather under thick knits to totally contrast fabrics or mixing up the leather look with shiny and matte finishes, leather in all get-ups are in vogue. Shahrukh Zaidi, MD, Studio SRZ, talking about popularity of leather and increasing innovation in this field said, “Leather is a major trend and it is going to be around in many upcoming seasons. We cater mostly to buyers from Europe and as the printing on leather requirement increases, we keep on developing different kinds of themes and looks for them. We are generating swatches in all techniques; this season, there is no specific design or pattern which is in demand. Leather as a commodity is in demand which can be developed with any surface manipulation.”
Leather has grown up this season, lending a tough edge to seriously sophisticated silhouettes, from matte tops to polished pencil skirts. Coating and finishing was a major hit on runways this Fall. With numerous designers experimenting with coated leather, New York-based Hallie Sara showed a deft hand turning leather, fur and shearling into polished, versatile sportswear for women and men.
Leather Manipulation…
When Mugler left his models loose on the runways, the laser cut circuit mimicking pattern quickly caught the viewers’ attention. Leather this season is weaved, cut, fringed, knitted and transformed into all structures possible. Chanel, developed 3-D origami units and decorated them on the sleeves and front panels, creating a fascinating amalgamation of plaids and leather. Whereas, innovative designer, Iris Van Herpen, created 3-D surface by putting strips of leather on the base at 90 degrees and inter connecting them with beads. Jason Wu, went a step ahead and showed a newer version of coloured leather blouse and skirt in quilted version.
The Digital World of Printing…
With recent developments in digital printing technology providing new options to produce an array of customized products, printing graphics onto leather offers a variety of applications for a diverse cross section of niche markets, from high-end fashionwear and accessories to specialty items to automotive and home interiors. And this trend is most visible in the accessory segment, especially bags. Gone are the days when women carried their style statement gear in some neutral shades, now with leather printing, the target customer can co-ordinate prints, stripes and designs on their bags with their cocktail dresses.
Talking about digital printing, stripes and polka dots were combined together to form a patchwork pattern on dresses by Saint Laurent. Formerly, output providers had been using screen printing and dye-sublimation inkjet printing onto leather, but now more economical technologies are helping change the playing field. “We use UV digital printing technique on leather, faux leather, PVC, PU, etc., majorly exporting to countries like Europe, US, Scandinavia and Australia. We have our own in-house developed technique used for leather printing, by which we are able to control costs and deliver better quality products in accordance with the international quality standards,” says Sameer Roy, General Manager, D G Prints Ltd.
Tints and Shades…
Leather dyeing is another technique which was not experimented with in a major way till last season, when designers realized the potential leather holds when dyed. Different techniques like marbling, tie and dye, wrinkle finishing, overdyeing are done on leather to give it a distinctive character. Shahrukh, building further on this adds, “Classic leather pieces are taking on a rainbow of colours, including some very flashy shades, making them even more appealing for fashion addicts. Techniques like ombre dyeing and dip-dyeing are used to develop double coloured leather in jackets, skirts, etc.”
Coloured leather was a major hit on the runways, carried out in style by designers like Esteban Cortazar and Loewe. The result was quite something for a high-flown luxury leather brand to take on. It had geometric big leather patchwork in bright colours of magenta, fuchsia and yellow on blousons and pastel nappa leather coats with prints. Apurva Shroff, Assistant Designer, Label by Ritu Kumar, talking about dyeing techniques on leather said, “Dyeing and printing on leather is emerging out be a big trend. We do screen printing, digital printing and even hand dyeing on leather and the response of the market has been really good. In our ongoing collection of handbags, totes and clutches we are embracing an otherwise basic tan leather bag with ikat prints and other combinations of dyeing effects.”
Waxing and Finishing…
Leather has grown up this season, lending a tough edge to seriously sophisticated silhouettes, from matte tops to polished pencil skirts. Coating and finishing was a major hit on runways this Fall. With numerous designers experimenting with coated leather, New York-based Hallie Sara showed a deft hand turning leather, fur and shearling into polished, versatile sportswear for women and men. With Libran tenacity, Isabel Marant focused more on patent leather-like look. Saint Laurent similarly, recreated shiny reptilian surfaces and silver polishing on his trench coats and buttoned up dresses. Loewe as well presented a brigade of shiny and shimmery leather jackets and trench coat validating leather to be the fabric of the season.
All Glitter Versions…
Moving ahead of the quintessential fabric bases for embroidery and beadwork, designers have now picked up leather to garnish the surface with gems and all that glitters. Putting two completely different materials together, designers are treating leather with embroidery stitches, needle work and beading. “For our Spring collection, we are working on embellishments; we are going crazy with all the variety of trims and value additions that we can source, observing a time of great experimentation in export market now. With every technique explored and done to death, it’s time that we start once again using the same technique in different ways and mix and match value addition of different fabric bases to create something new,” concluded Darshika Sharma, Designer to Bhartiya International Ltd., a premium exporter of leather products.
