Dress forms are one of the basic constituents for creating flat patterns through grading or to check fitting of sample garments. While dress form transformed from hard to soft to address some of the fit related problems of body hugging garments better, and/or incorporation of posture for a better fit, the‘garment fit’ is resurrecting itself as a new USP for brands to serve customers better. World leaders in ‘fit’ solutions, Alvanon addresses the oldest problems of garment fit through newest approaches. Along with customized dress forms, Alvanon also offers standard blocks that help in identifying target demographic, deciding target size range, and benchmarking against competition through its research based consultancy platform AlvaInsight. Ed Gribbin, President, Alvanon in a candid interview with StitchWorld discusses its strategy for the future.
SW: Alvanon started as a manufacturer of dress forms and is now a multinational company providing complete fitting solutions to the apparel industry. How has been the transition?
EG: Fit forms were a natural first step, but the question came: What does the data say? How should we interpret and apply the data? This was the birth of our consulting division, AlvaInsight. Next, clients needed help beyond their sample size, so we developed a unique and much more accurate theory of grade rules than anyone had ever seen, and we helped and trained our clients and their vendors on how to implement it, then came blocks, a missing link in the ability to execute product fit consistently in so many companies. We have 4-5 new services or products in our pipeline at any given time and we are proud of the fact that we continue to learn, develop and adapt to a changing apparel world, and the evolving needs of the industry.
SW: What do you mean when you say “Alvanon identifies current and future fit trends”? How is it different from Silhouettes?
EG: We not only body scan many consumers in different countries, but also study health data and medical studies worldwide to track population trends. We try to capture the big picture so that we can give our clients the best short and long-term advice when it comes to developing a product fit strategy. Then, we look at how the technical side of their business is related or connected to their design/creative/buying side. Often there is disconnect and we use our experience and expertise to help bring the two sides into alignment. That’s when the success for the business can really start to materialize.
SW: In these times of 3D body scanners and Avatars, how relevant are dress forms and mannequins?
EG: The technologist in me would like to say, “Yes, eventually we will do all product development virtually,” but the fact is that the apparel/fashion world is one of tactile senses, touching, feeling, etc. We will never eliminate a physical sample that someone can touch, feel and try on. Our technologies enable clients to do many steps in the virtual world, but they still need at least one real sample and for that reason, the form will never become obsolete. Add to that the fact that brands are continuing to change or expand their vendor base, factories or sources – those producers will always need a tool to gauge if the product they make physically works for the real 3-D body shape of the brand’s customers. They will never be able to do that without proper, identical fit forms.
SW:Majorly AlvaScan is used for country or brand-specific surveys. To handle surveys at such a scale, the below factors need to be dealt with utmost criticality:
a) Defining a sample size
b) Body scanners and costumes
c) Subject recruitment and security of identity
d) Data hosting and analysis
What are the key differentiators of your value proposition (in terms of AlvaInsight) from other competitors?
EG: Your points are correct, to a degree, but they cannot be considered the key for a size survey but just the starting point. The real value is in our strategy of how to analyze the data for a particular client, sift out what’s relevant from what is not, determine what competition’s impact should be (or not be) on the eventual solution. In short, no one has the vast experience that we do in determining what works, and what doesn’t work in the real world. Our experience is not only in analysing data; it’s in design, merchandising, buying, technical design, planning and allocation, sourcing, production, quality and even logistics. We bring a holistic approach and solution to every client’s specific needs.
SW: I believe Alvanon uses millimetre wave 3D scanning technology, which is less accurate to laser and white light technology used by other competitors. Infrared scanners from a company called PrimeSense have actually taken 3D body scanners to every home via platforms like Microsoft Xbox, enabling them to create their avatars at home. Are you working in this direction? How does accuracy matter in 3D scanning?
EG: All scanners can be “accurate” or “inaccurate” depending on how they are used and operated. Accuracy is a relative term. If all things are done properly in calibrating a scanner, preparing the person who will be scanned, conducting the actual scan, testing or validating the scan, etc. then laser could be ‘accurate’ to about 3-5 mm, white light to 5-7 mm, and radio wave to 7-10 mm. In each case, the accuracy achievable is well within the permitted accuracy tolerance level when actually sewing the garment, which is 2 cm or more.
At Alvanon, we own and use scanners of all technologies. We use the right scanner for the right application. If scanning high volumes of people in a short time in a public place is the priority, we use radio wave. If we are scanning one fit model to make a mould of her body for fit forms, we may use another technology. It is similar to looking at a landscape from 10 feet above, 100 feet above, or 1,000 feet above. Sometimes the close-up detail is critical, sometimes understanding the bigger picture, or perspective, is more important.
Infrared scanners for use at home have not been proven to be accurate in the same way that institutional scanners define accuracy. The real issue though is, depending on what they plan to do with the data, they may not need to be that ‘accurate’ (again, it is a relative term). For playing games the technology is great; will it be helpful to create custom-fit clothing? I doubt it. Will it help a customer pick the right size? Yes, I think that’s possible, but it will still take more work and development.
SW: One of your latest developments has been a mobile application AlvaKids, for helping customers select kidswear with ease. How has that been made possible without 3D body scanners? Did you actually study the growth chart of a child to make the same possible?
EG: I cannot disclose exactly how our application and algorithms work, but we do have World Health Organization data on children’s growth patterns country-wise, as part of the background database that we use to predict the proper size. We also have our own data, which is substantially more detailed, plus our years of experience in children’s clothing, add to it my personal industry background started with children’s school uniforms 36 years ago. We not only know what kids look like and how they grow; we also know how to create size scales and grading that provide comfort, safety, and style, not only for the kids, but also to the satisfaction of the parents who inevitably purchase their clothing.
