After settling fall 2016 collections, it is that time of the year when exporters and designers are now working on S/S ’17 collection sampling. Giving a hint in many fall styles, metal details as trims are all set to make their way into the summer designs as well. Be it covering the entire surface area of a jacket or creating a mesh-like structure over the edge, metal details were, are and will remain the most important part of the coming season’s collections, it seems. Moving ahead from the simple ribbons, laces, cords, buttons and zippers from last year, the summer of 2017 will bring with it 5 value-added metal details which will impress fashion enthusiasts in the upcoming seasons…
In an unexpected twist, silver details were placed on pieces by both edgy and demure brands. The trend was evident in Louis Vuitton’s, Ellery’s and many other ace designers’ fall 2016 collections. Stand-out looks include shiny rings on sweaters, belted metallic ornaments, metallic eyelets and grommets, a few of the versions metallic details that were seen. Metallic buttons are being used not only on plackets of a shirt but on dresses and gowns to create an assorted texture. Grommets, reinforced eyelets and rivets are garnished all over in chaotic and scattered arrangements. Metal was beaten, moulded and manoeuvred, to create decorative elements, treated with various metal finishes to emerge as a big trend left to be further explored. While grommets are an important trim and detail for S/S 2017, evolving from fall 2016, the metal eyelet makes a strong statement as a design detail or as a functional element in a variety of silhouettes, creating an edgy, youthful vibe on the catwalk.
Based on indications from across the globe, the following are the top 5 metal details which will make it big in the S/S 2017 collections:
Rivets
Rivets are an integral part of garment designing. Mostly used in bomber and biker leather jackets, the use of silver, gold, brass metallic buttons in various shapes to give a designer edge are most popular. Pleated leather is adorned with rivets in the in-fold, so that the design is only partially visible. Moving ahead from the military-inspired fashion, the trend of metallic rivets is also getting popular. Instead of using a regular button, use of metal coated buttons are really in. Alexander Wang showcased sweaters with contrasting stripes, which were brought together with help of a series of assorted rivets. On the other hand, there was a definite sense of rigor in the collection by Co, where details like punctuating covered buttons were seen on tailored silks hinting at prim Victoriana style. Vinod Mongia, Director, Manya Creations avers, “We are doing a lot of value additions and metal details are of prime importance. Currently riveting, embossed metal patching, etc. are very much in demand.”
Eyelets
Normally seen as tiny holes to enclose buttons, eyelets have come a long way. Eyelet fabric is made up of carefully stitched holes to form a lace or floral patterns. The look mimics that of the lace aesthetic, but is sturdy and strong in comparison to the delicate lace. The results were mostly seen on garments by Alexander Wang, Suno, Marc Jacobs and Cushnie et Ochs in the fall 2016 collections. Kayne’s collection felt especially in tune with her laid-back SoCal surroundings complete with striped linen trousers and eyelet blouses, whereas, Suno compiled the folk elements of naive floral prints and embroideries and cotton eyelet together to complete the embellishments.
Think of eyelets as lace 2.0 because while eyelet fabric is just as elegant, it’s also twice as durable; so there’s no need to be worried about runs or tears. Goonjan Kumar, Designer, JJ Expo Impo, discussing about eyelets said, “Whether big and bold eyelets or small and subtle, eyelets in all varieties are getting popular. Eyelets are not to be confused with their cousin, the grommet, which has a larger flange diameter in relation to the hole size than an eyelet does, the larger the flange, the stronger the grip.”
Metal Ornaments
Metal was heated and manoeuvred into more feminine elements to bring out the rocker chic or grunge look. Feminine elements like the roses, butterflies, other flowers, buds and leaves, etc. are formed using lines and sheets of metals to create a solid look with a touch of softness. Prada presented a belt, which was no less a firm fashion statement. The belt was decorated with metal roses complete with metal rivets and fasteners. The designer explored corsetry details; only he shifted the perspective, cinching the hip area rather than the waist. Mostly the metal details are seen on the length of the entire garment, but here the ornamentation was mostly seen on the waist accessories segment, shoulders and cuffs.
Metal Rings
Put together in a line, to join at the ends and create a peek-a-boo effect, metal rings were seen in varied applications on the fall 2016 runways. Niraj Pugalia, CEO, Silver Apparels said, “We mostly do heavily embellished garments and this time the looks sum up wool melton peacoat, creamy silk georgette blouses, charcoal cashmere pullovers and jacquard dresses, all having one thing in common, metal rings attached as value additions.” Fall also found designers like Michael Kors embracing peter pan-collar dolly-bird dresses with metal rings attached on the placket area and cable-knit sweaters with a line of metal rings hanging on the side giving the fringe effect.
Dion Lee induced an interesting concept in his collection by utilising the key idea to make clothes appear backlit; hence the motifs of metal perforation and crystal dappled onto material or bonded into it. The most intriguing of Lee’s ideas, however, was his play with hardware. He probed tension between functional detail and ornamental detail, by creating hoop-shaped silver jewellery of varying sizes that pierced numerous garments. In some cases, the silver hoops served to pinch the coat’s volume, gathering the material up into sharp pleats.
Chain Enclosures
Metal chains get a feminine revamp and are used as enclosures in styles. Light metal chains are hooped with metal rectangular fasteners to give the look of body chains on silhouettes. Boiled wool/cotton mix denim was the template fabric for Damir Doma’s long dresses with quilted obi-belt detailing at the arm and strapping at the waistline. The designer played a lot of masculine-feminine ping-pong here, he fastened pockets and little chains of round metal beads to the clothes with gleaming metal clips, and lined his gray and oat-flecked black boiled wool rib knits with more lines of contrasting metal. Anima Singh, Assistant Designer, Citrine Design Studio informed, “For our S/S ’17 collection, we have incorporated small chain bits on our blouses and tunics, mostly embellishing the shoulder and neck area.”
