Embellishments are apparently playful for fall 2016. The cutest and most naive forms that one can imagine are being seen on the collections of the most serious designers. The ongoing fall 2016 runways saw designers experimenting with playful embellishments, ranging from the kitschy to the elegant. Driven by innovation to adorn a piece of textile product with style and designer look, varied forms that we normally visualize in kids collections were seen showing prevalence in the product development segment as value-add essentials. Ruling the fashion shows and retail space already, these playful value-add accessories are predicted to continue surprising the world by their innovative design concepts and applications in the upcoming seasons as well…
Taking the youthful approach to fashion, it was no surprise that for fall, designers played with light-hearted embellishments, from fruit-motif badges to pretty floral appliqués. Embellishments served as the focal point, with silhouettes and colour-ways revolving around it. Marc Jacobs, for example, gave extra pizzazz via stars, ladybugs, safety pins and more. Whereas, Rochas added a crystal eye design on its ladylike satin silhouette, which provided just the right amount of visual interest without going over-the-top. Both Fendi and O Jour by Giorgia Caovilla used floral treatments on their designs. While Fendi’s oversized flowers gave its collection a mod spin, Caovilla’s shrunken flowers were a more modern take on the classic embellishment. Alexander Lewis collaborated with the artist Flavie Audi, who makes sculptures of metal and glass, to create an interesting play of light within her work. Inspired from the properties of light, its wavelike form, the way it refracts through prisms, its reflection glimmers and splits across the surface of things, Lewis had a good season. Crystal honchos Swarovski were behind the mirror forms creating the playful surface.
Designers developed cloud-like prints and patterned jacquards, galactic-looking prints that magnified reflective reactions. There were also crystal-dappled sheer silks, frequently found layered with other, more plainspoken materials such as shirting pinstripe, that recalled the reaction prints’ starry night sky effect. Blue was the key colour in these playful embellishments. House of Holland’s head-fry colourful cactus-print shirtdresses, nerd-chic pulled-high sports socks, queasy abstract jacquards and you-really-shouldn’t-mix-those colour combinations including lime green and orange added to the maximalist overdose.
Bringing back the times of playful patching over torn places, designers used embroidered, printed and material-form patches on sheers and heavyweight materials. Back in our single-digit prime, not only did we wear cartoon- and ruffle-adorned anything, we also had our mother’s closet to sneak into, where we’d casually slip into her way-too-big kitten heels. But after looking at some of this season’s whimsical trends one can’t help but get reminded of their youth. From art-project-inspired embellishments to sparkles – on everything – these playful, nostalgia-inducing pieces are not taking themselves too seriously. And what better time to rev up the fun and proactively ward off seasonal blues than now…?
Fairytale Sparkle
If years of building a timeless ‘adult’ wardrobe robbed your closet of its fun, spontaneous spirit, consider this season’s obsession with sparkly pieces permission to revive it. In addition to the usual holiday party garb, glimmering styles are making their way into the regular rotation, from twinkling turtlenecks to shimmery ankle socks. But it’s the styles that fully embrace the Studio-54-meets-storybook-princess vibe that have us getting on board with seeing our own reflection in our clothes, like gold pleated maxis, starburst earrings, and Miu Miu’s whimsical, glitter-packed pumps. “Yes, childlike forms are getting popular with buyers. Now butterflies, rabbits and flower bunches have got lifted from the pyjamas and are garnished all over mainstream styles,” says Vivek Khandelwal, Partner, Patterns India.
Florescent Fuzz
While shearling and faux fur are cold-weather standbys, we typically cuddle up to them in their neutral-hued variety. But this season, designers lit up the runways with fuzzy accents in an assortment of bright, bold shades. Pawan Kumar, Director, Pawan Exports, discussing about the neon colour pops said, “We can see that the fluorescents and neon are on their way out, but are not completely wiped off. We are able to see neon as accents in varied shapes which are definitely unconventional.” It may seem intimidating to work such a fierce texture into your wardrobe – especially in Day-Glo colours that remind us of our neon troll dolls – but if Giorgio Armani, MSGM, and Mara Hoffman can do it, the world certainly wants it. Ease into the trend with smaller accessories, like this blood-orange Coach bag and electric fluff heel to counter winter’s dark palette.
Cotton-Candy Hues
Rich pastels like baby blue and pale pink send us right down the memory lane to when our most prized possession was a pair of pink ballet slippers. These dreamy colours offer an easy way to have fun with your look, especially if you pair them up with unexpected primary shades. A pale-blue wrap duster coat contrasts gorgeously with saturated red gloves, stud detailing and a pink bow purse. Ashish Jain, Director, East West Traders, corroborating with the growing cotton candy colour craziness said, “Playful frills and thread works are most favourites when done in muted pastels.”
Arts & Crafts Embellishments
Nothing stirs up nostalgia like haphazardly placed jewel accents. Going back to 2013 when putting rhinestones on everything made absolute sense, this time, you can find the chromatic embellishments expertly attached on the toes of going-out heels, shoulders of duster coats, blouses, skirts and more. With strategic placements, the approach is just the right dose of fun without veering into gaudy grandma territory. “Crafty embellishments don’t only mean traditional, crafty also means making forms using the craft, therefore, we are witnessing a lot of modern kid’s inspired patterns being developed by batik, tie & dye etc. and are getting incorporated in modern silhouettes,” said Abhay Sadh, Director, Batik India.
