The latest batch of GenNext designers have been revealed and this season sees four exceptionally talented up-and-coming creatives being graced with the honour.
Lauded as the most popular and credible platform in the Indian fashion industry for new talent, GenNext has established over the years 250 designers who have risen and evolved to become some of the most sought-after names in the country today.
For its 35th edition, Hiral Jajal of label Hiro, Kunaal Kyhaan of label Koytoy, Anugrah Chandra of label KoAi and Rudraksh Dwivedi of his eponymous label Rudraksh Dwivedi, were selected as the winners and got an opportunity to showcase their collections at the Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI which took place in Mumbai from 9th to 12th of March 2023.
The INIFD presents GenNext program has been recognised for identifying and providing young and talented designers an opportunity to enhance their skills and take centre stage in the fashion industry.
Like each season, the candidates were selected from amongst a pool of entries that were invited for the GenNext program. The shortlisted designers then presented their collections to an esteemed jury comprising Harman Dhillon, Vice President, Skincare, Color Cosmetics, Hindustan Unilever; Anaita Shroff Adajania, Costume and Fashion Stylist and Creative Director; Sabina Chopra, GenNext Mentor; and Jaspreet Chandok, Head of RISE Fashion and Lifestyle.
Talking about the GenNext program, Jaspreet Chandok, Head – RISE Fashion and Lifestyle said, “We are delighted to continue strengthening our GenNext program that identifies, mentors and recognises young designers season-on-season giving them the opportunity to showcase their work on a global platform like Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI. For more than a decade, the GenNext program has been responsible for introducing 250+ designers, several of whom have gone on to make a mark in the Indian and international fashion industry. Our best wishes to the four winners that have emerged out of an extremely talented pool of entries and we look forward to seeing them shine in the industry in the years to come.”
We take a look at the four winners of the 35th edition of GenNext designers’ program, each of whom are set to make waves in the fashion industry. Read on to discover!
HIRO BY HIRAL JAJAL
Mumbai-based 27-year-old Hiral Jajal has over five years of extensive experience in the fashion space, having worked as a designer with Ajay Arvindbhai Khatri in the past.
An alumni of Raffles Design Institute and Domus Academy Milano, Hiral’s winning collection for her brand Hiro, was inspired by the theme ‘The Dystopian Bride’ that features statement pieces representing the strength and rebelliousness of the modern woman in a dystopian world who has fought with love to save their own kind.
Commenting on being selected as a GenNext winner, Hiral Jajal said, “Denim is an integral part of the brand as our Hiro denims have started to become the brand identity. As a young brand, very grateful and excited to have presented the collection on an esteemed platform like Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI.”
Techniques such as ruching, smocking, tie-and-dye, stone wash and denim manipulation in eye-catching colour schemes have been used not just on Hiro’s clothes but also over the label’s accessories and footwear categories.
Techniques such as ruching, smocking, tie and dye, stone wash and denim manipulation in eye-catching colour schemes have been used not just on Hiro’s clothes but also over the label’s accessories and footwear categories.
Striking neon shades of yellow and green emerged as standout shades within the collection, as the designer presented an unconventional fashion story that brought to the forefront an inspiration that emerged from a post-apocalyptic world, which turned the art of survival into a fight.
The innovative tie-dye and stone washing technique that added to the visual impact of the apparel, have been specially created by the designer to achieve a distressed denim look.
Key looks from the collection include oversized, baggy drawstring denim parkas that were embossed with the shredded ‘HIRO’ logo on the rear, while multiple pockets added a touch of functional utility to the ensemble, with trailing drawstrings making for a relaxed fashion statement. Teamed with intricately designed, comfy denim jeans with contrast topstitching to highlight clever construction techniques, the combo works as a great unisex option.
The neon ruched, wired bodysuit worn with matching shoulder-length gloves worked well with the parka and jeans stories, while the neon jumpsuit emerged as another striking addition to the mix-and-match collection.
KOYTOY by Kunaal Kyhaan
34-year-old Kunaal Kyhaan completed his education with a Bachelor in Architecture from Parsons School of Design and went on to create his own ventures such as studio Haus and Koytoy as the Founder and Creative director.
The Pune-based designer’s debut collection titled ‘Maharaja by the Bay’ reflects on the romanticism of the season while borrowing tones of desi-nostalgia in rich and muted tones of jamun, indigo, rust and jade.
On being selected to present as a GenNext designer, Kunaal Kyhaan said, “Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI has been a humbling experience, one that I will treasure forever. My runway debut echoes the thrill of the backstage, the models adorned in KOYTOY and the glamorous walk down the legendary ramp. It all happened so fast and is yet so enriching.”
The silhouettes retain free-flowing oversized fits which seamlessly transition from day to night due to the duality of fabric and colour palettes. Techniques explored by the designer include cane weave, jewel embellishment, applique, bandhani and moreover fabrics such as satin, cotton, crepe, pure and raw silks along with leather to name a few.
The collection features motifs that have been inspired by historic art murals, miniatures and iconic photography from Indian monarchs’ collection.
The silhouettes at KOYTOY retain free-flowing oversized fits which seamlessly transition from day to night due to the duality of fabric and colour palettes. Techniques explored by the designer include cane weave, jewel embellishment, applique, bandhani and moreover fabrics such as satin, cotton, crepe, pure and raw silks along with leather to name a few.
Standout products such as the safari sets, flared oversized pants and horse riding chaps effortlessly captured the life and joie de vivre of an off-duty Maharaja in a stylish manner.
“The GenNextDesigner Program introduced me to the industry leaders, prepared me to create this beautiful show and enabled me to reach millions of people through this platform. I am honoured and grateful for this opportunity. Special thanks to the team at Rise Worldwide, FDCI, Lakmé Fashion Week and Nexa for being such an amazing host and mentor for my debut,” Kunaal added.
KoAi by Anugrah Chandra
Self-trained Delhi-based designer Anugrah Chandra gave up his legal education background to follow his creative passion for fashion. The 33-year-old’s interest towards fashion and design is to be credited for his journey leading up to this moment, where his labour of love KoAi has been selected by the esteemed Gen Next jury to present at this season of Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI.
Anugrah’s debut collection, ‘Coalescence’, is an amalgamation and dazzling concoction of classic techniques and contemporary silhouettes. From textured surfaces that feature hand pipe embroidery and beadwork along with weaving, to micro-pleating and smocking, Anugrah has explored a multitude of techniques in his pieces.
Fabrics such as heavy cotton silk, mushroom twill, poplin, cotton and chiffon were brought to life with colours and digitally printed in an effort to highlight ancient printing techniques. Originally a coppice in shades of red, brown, green and dusty blue, he presented the fluid look of forest leaves and fine wood lines that came alive with floral prints that were derived from sabu, shibori and eco-botanical printing.
At KoAi, fabrics such as heavy cotton silk, mushroom twill, poplin, cotton and chiffon were brought to life with colours and digitally printed in an effort to highlight ancient printing techniques.
Standout looks included flared palazzos teamed up with a matching corset blouse topped with a relaxed shirt and a long floor-sweeping trench robe that covered a strappy corset blouse and fluid, wide-leg pants. A long-sleeved mini shirt dress, sashed provocatively at the hips brought a stylish twist to the womenswear collection.
In the case of menswear, key looks included a belted, wide, lapelled, long coat that was worn over matching trousers and a shirt. The HIS and HER striped wide trousers and floral shirts gave a great twinning option to a couple’s fashion selection.
Commenting on his experience as being selected for the GenNext program, Anugrah Chandra said, “I am deeply humbled and grateful to be a part of Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI. It is a true honour to be recognised as one of the INIFD GenNext designers. This was only possible with the support and guidance of all the mentors whose expertise and encouragement pushed me to excel at my craft. As I accept this opportunity as one of the next generation of designers, I am reminded of the responsibility that comes with it. I pledge to continue to strive for excellence in my work and make meaningful contributions to this field.”
Rudraksh Dwivedi
With a BA in Fashion Design from East London, 31-year-old Rudraksh Dwivedi who is based in Mumbai has worked with leading fashion houses across India such as House of Anita Dongre, Falguni Shane Peacock and more. He has been at the helm of his own label since 2019.
His debut collection as a GenNext designer is predominantly inspired by the material itself. Audiences are introduced to an amalgamation of classic silhouettes and unique play of textures that draw inspiration from eco-brutalism.
Interestingly, Rudraksh has made use of a 4-inch trim, matted onto tulle and then manipulated using hand and machine work to accentuate the female body form. In combination with the chrome line work, he has also used layered black tulle and mesh to create a mix of paradoxical elements throughout his collection.
Rudrakshs’s line of ensembles exude midnight glamour in an ink black palette that highlight his label’s signature chrome line work.
Rudraksh has made use of a 4-inch trim, matted onto tulle and then manipulated using hand and machine work to accentuate the female body form. In combination with the chrome line work, he has also used layered black tulle and mesh to create a mix of paradoxical elements throughout his collection.
From wide pants paired with a matching cropped top, to a sleek, long-sleeved, plunging neckline ombré mini and a lacey ensemble, Rudraksh’s latest collection gives a hint of the roaring ’20s. Additional standout pieces include a black strappy fringed midi and an imposing floor-sweeping cape.
Commenting on being selected to showcase his collection as a GenNext designer at Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI, Rudraksh Dwivedi said, “GenNext is one of the most reputable designer mentorship programs in the country and being launched on such an eminent platform is an absolute dream come true. Showcasing at Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI has put our brand on the front burner in the Indian fashion landscape and bridged us to a wider network of people.”
