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A sustainable approach: Designer Maheen Khan on the idea of slow fashion

Maheen Khan believes that to start afresh, we must be able to go back to our roots and connect the weavers to the end consumers. We must embrace slow fashion, understand what it means and find ways to blend the process into our modern lives. Designer Maheen Khan, better known for her brand Studio Mayasir, had already embraced the age-old system in her creations. However, recently she has completely stopped the retail operations for her fashion outlet to shift focus towards developing lines that have a global acceptance. “We are doing home collections and fashion accessories like scarves, which have a greater international appeal. We are making cushions, runners and even dresses using handloom and handcrafted materials. So basically, today, Studio Mayasir has more of a global essence. Studio Mayasir is influenced by a close cooperation with artisan communities across Bangladesh. It has and hopes to preserve traditional craftsmanship techniques. The collection conveys the desire for simplicity, purity, relaxation, comfort and artisanal luxury,” Maheen Khan mentions.

Starting a new chapter

Studio Mayasir is a renowned design house that has continued to work with handloom setting new standards, where conscious design meets sustainability with empowerment of 2,500 rural underprivileged women in Bangladesh. Here everything is hand-made with the finest natural weaves by trained artisans with contemporary and modern design. “Our focus is on contemporary styles and handcrafted needle work. We believe in fashion in general, but not in the term ‘trendy,’ because we advocate for slow fashion which literally means — timelessness. Our collections are one that you can wear anytime and anywhere and yet look in-sync with the modern-day contemporary look.”

Also Read: Making cotton dyeing an eco-friendly reality

Studio Mayasir’s latest lines have simple designs, simple cuts that are foremost comfortable and minimalistic. “Our designs indirectly resonate to being conscious, responsible and active in promoting a better world,” Khan adds.

Being a part of the industry for over 30 years now, the designer loves to call herself a conservationist and highlights that she is thinking global in everything she is doing today. Be it influencing her students at FDCB or conceptualising her own designs, she is mindful of the craft and wants to add a global touch to everything. This way, she knows that in long-term, the tasteful aesthetics of Bangladesh will never leave the global shores.

Closer to the artisans

“Our crafts are made under fair conditions of wages, working facilities and sustained jobs that keep up our enthusiasm for developing new products every day, with products that offer high standards of quality and functionality. We want our customers to learn about who makes each product, how do they live and how their jobs bring them a better quality of life. We love working with artisans and we love seeing them become entrepreneurs. As slow fashion is the complete opposite of the fast-paced, mill-produced fashion that we commonly see today, it involves the manufacturing of clothes with the help of local artisans and use of eco-friendly materials, with the ultimate goal of preserving our heritage crafts and the environment. It’s a win-win situation for all; our talented artisans get to earn their daily bread and butter, the country gets to preserve its heritage weaves and crafts, and customers get timeless and sophisticated end-products,” Khan highlights.

Even though slow fashion always reigned at the heart of the brand Mayasir and its designing techniques represented the varied aspects of slow fashion, but the designer admits that previously, they occasionally did use some cotton and georgettes which were machine-made, solely because the customers demanded them.

She is fast to admit, “Today, things are different. We have embraced new ways to become a conscious citizen of the world. We have realised that the onus is partly on us to teach our clients the benefits of slow fashion. And if we do not initiate the momentum, then the thought process will only get lost in translation. Someone has to begin the process, no matter how hard the future may be. Today, Studio Mayasir only promotes handloom items that are absolutely local, sustainable and eco-friendly.”

Creating an impact

The designer has taken Mayasir to the Paris Fashion Week, International Weavers Festival in Malaysia and many other major events in Thailand and USA. She has spoken to many buyers and in the process, learnt so much from them. “These shows were certainly an eye-opener for us. Because countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and India have already invested heavily in slow fashion and have been quite successful in reviving their old techniques of weaving and crafts. This has certainly encouraged us to move forward with the idea. In future, we would probably like to explore the Japanese market because their aesthetics are very much similar to ours. They do a lot of hand-crafted work which is relatable to our stitches, quilts, patterns and lifestyle. Plus, the Japanese value handcrafted work and our weaves. So, it is definitely a good market for the handloom industry of our nation,” she adds.

When talking about her role at FDCB, Maheen Khan mentions that through Fashion Design Council of Bangladesh (FDCB), they are trying to encourage the new-breed of designers to appreciate the Bangladeshi culture. Instead of eyeing embellishments, she wants them to give a modern twist to Jamdani, indigenous peoples’ crafts and handloom, taant, gamcha, lungi, Rajshahi silk, etc. to create a new design language. “Let’s try to rekindle our classy past, our heritage and try to realise what truly is a Bangladeshi cultural DNA. We need to get back to our roots before it is completely lost,” she sums up.

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Fly Fishing Brands Opt for Polygiene® Odour Control Technology

Image Courtesy: pir.sa.gov.au

Fly fishing brands Orvis and Simms are set to incorporate Polygiene’s odour control technology in their upcoming Spring ’18 collection. Both the companies have now become the first-ever fishing apparel brands to have opted for Polygiene technology.

Orvis will integrate Polygiene’s innovative fabric treatment in its travel garment category in eight styles that are easy-to-care and made up of quick drying fabrics. On the other hand, Simms will use the Polygiene technology in its new technical angling pieces including its Solarflex Armor Shirt and Women’s Guide Skort.

Polygiene claims that its bluesign-approved odour control technology, which is predominantly a silver-salt treatment for textiles, will also provide ‘Green’ solutions to both the brands. With the help of this antimicrobial treatment, Orvis and Simms will be able to reduce the laundering frequency of their apparels and thereby save water, time and electricity.

Colleen Nipkow, Polygiene’s Global Marketing Director, commented, “We have seen consistent growth with our current brand partners increasing the role of Polygiene in their product lines as well as new brands adopting our technology. With lifestyles developing around the sports we serve, including travel as a central component of that, consumers require odourless solutions allowing the focus to be on the activity and not on the product.”

Both Orvis and Simms presented a glimpse of the upcoming collections at the recently concluded iCAST, world’s largest sports fishing trade show, in Orlando, Florida, USA.

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H&M goes high fashion with Erdem

Image Courtesy: hm.com

Fast fashion retail giant H&M is collaborating with London-based fashion designer Erdem Moralioglu of the covetable label, Erdem. The new collection, comprising romantic womenswear pieces and accessories, will hit select H&M stores in 22 countries worldwide and hm.com by November this year. The most exciting element of the collection would be a menswear assortment, a segment which Erdem has never tapped before.

A graduate of the Royal College of Art, Erdem is an astute storyteller and has worked along the similar lines of design inspirations for his collaboration with H&M, one of the leading fashion brands known for ‘trendy’ pieces rather than ‘classic’ styles.

Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s Creative Advisor exclaimed, “From the moment we started talking with Erdem about the collaboration, I was captured by his vision. For ERDEM x H&M, he has created an enchanting world full of beauty, delicacy and rich details. These are special pieces you will want to wear forever.” Additionally, the fashion brand has brought on board Baz Luhrmann, known for directing popular films like The Great Gatsby and Romeo + Juliet, to create a teaser for an official announcement about the collection with Erdem.

This collaboration just adds another feather to H&M’s hat which has also partnered with high-end designer labels like Balmain, Rei Kawakubo and Jimmy Choo to bring luxury names at takeaway prices to its mass clientele.

Just like its previous fashion collaborations with mega fashion partners have always sold like hot cakes, the H&M x Erdem collection is also highly anticipated among the brand’s fashion forward client base.

 

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Chevalier deploys Gerber’s YuniquePLM Cloud software

Image Courtesy: chevalier.se

Chevalier, the Sweden-based manufacturer of high-quality hunting clothes, has deployed YuniquePLM Cloud software offered by Gerber Technology. The latter provides technology solutions in various sectors including apparel and fashion.

Growing demand for its products in the market propelled Chevalier to adopt Gerber’s YuniquePLM solution. The software will help the manufacturer accelerate its services and deliver quality products to the customers quicker. As per Gerber, one of the biggest challenges of Chevalier was in gaining ownership of all the information relating to their products. With YuniquePLM Cloud, all the dates can be centralised and easily shared with the suppliers worldwide.

Explaining the need of incorporating the Gerber’s technology, Chevalier states that YuniquePLM will enable them to diminish complexities in daily operations. Also, it will help connect creative teams with their supply chain to timely deliver the right products at appropriate cost in the market. The PLM solution will also allow Chevalier to simplify the workflow, reduce lead time and improve margins by managing the details of line plans, tech packs and samples.

“The YuniquePLM Cloud solution is the complete system that we need as a business. It will allow us to stay on top of our increasing needs and further integrate, thus speeding our time to market,” informs John Lind, Managing Director, Chevalier Sweden AB.

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H&M strikes 9% growth in first half of FY ’17

Amidst extensive change in the fashion retail industry owing to increased digitalisation, Swedish apparel brand, H&M, has announced a ‘positive’ half yearly (December 2016 to May 2017) financial report.

Sales of H&M including VAT soared 9 per cent to SEK 113,907 million during the first six months of the financial year as against SEK 104,965 million in the same period last year. Sales excluding VAT amounted to SEK 98,368 million, up 5 per cent on the Y-o-Y basis. During the period under review, the fashion giant’s profit settled at SEK 10,920 million, noting an increase of 6 per cent on the yearly note.

Furthermore, H&M gained momentum in the second quarter of the year when its sales including VAT zoomed 10 percent to SEK 59,538 million. Sales excluding VAT; however, tapped a 5 per cent growth to SEK 51,383 million. Additionally, its gross profit increased by 9 percent to SEK 29,345; and profit after tax reached SEK 5,897 million during the said quarter.

Keeping pace with the changing buying behaviour of consumers, the world’s second largest fashion retailer also made considerable investments towards expansion of their digital reach which helped it garner growth in the online segment as well. The fashion retailer’s e-commerce sales increased significantly during the first six months of the FY. Brands under the H&M Group – COS, & Other Stories, Monki, Weekday and H&M Home also recorded rise in their e-commerce sales.

H&M claims Continuous Improvement, Diversification and Expansion of Online Offering; Integration of Physical Stores with the Online Store; Expansion of New Physical Stores with a Focus on Growth Markets; along with Optimisation and Development of the Store Portfolio and Supply Chain; and Advanced Analytics emerged as key factors that helped the fashion brand to perform well even when the markets in US and China remained sluggish. Although it is still a long road for H&M to touch its annual sales target that they missed to achieve last year.

“Sales in the UK, Scandinavia and Eastern Europe as well as in many of our growth markets were good. However, it was more challenging in several of our major markets such as the US, China, the Netherlands and Switzerland,” stressed Karl-Johan Persson, CEO, H&M.

In the meantime, Inditex-owned Zara does relatively better at with standing the sluggish retail market and has witnessed arise in their shares in the recent past.

 

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H&M reveals plans for Arket store in Stockholm

Image Courtesy: danskmagazine.com

Fashion major H&M has announced the opening of its all-new brand – Arket’s first flagship in Stockholm, Sweden next year. This opening will be after the brand unveils its global locations in London, Brussels, Copenhagen and Munich that are slated to open later this year.

Also ReadH&M to go ‘online’ in India next year

The store will open in the burgeoning centre of Stockholm’s premier shopping district, Bibliotekstan and will follow the conceptual route of retail with a café serving up New Nordic Food Manifestos in conjunction with a more luxurious shopping experience. Lars Axelsson, Managing Director, Arket said, “We are very fortunate to be opening our first hometown store in Bibliotekstan, where we’ll find ourselves in great company. The Stockholm Arket store opens in spring 2018, but the brand will be present online in Sweden as well as 17 other countries from the first day of our launch on Regent Street in London this autumn.”

Arket is a very different offering from the high-street giant H&M and will operate at an elevated price bracket compared to its namesake label. The brand will focus on procuring better quality materials, functionality and well fitted silhouettes as opposed to the more trend driven approach of its other brands.

 

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Tiger of Sweden appoints new CEO

Tiger store
Image Courtesy: freshlyeducatedmen.com

Tiger of Sweden, one of the prominent luxury clothing retailers of Sweden, has announced that Hans-Christian Meyer, former President of Ralph Lauren Corporation, will be its new Chief Executive Officer (CEO), effective 1 September, 2017.

Meyer, associated with Ralph Lauren since 2006, has more than 25 years of experience with strong and well-established fashion and apparel brands. He has gained vast knowledge from the industry, especially within retail operations and expansions. “I am thrilled to join Tiger of Sweden and the team. I believe the company has an enormous potential to continue expanding in the marketplace by strengthening its appeal to more consumers globally,” averred Meyer.

Also ReadWorth Collection appoints new CEO

Tiger of Sweden works in close co-ordination with the best fabric mills available, developing its own fabric designs that create the brand’s uniqueness. Combining materials with a clean cut based on first-class craftsmanship creates the unique and beloved Tiger fit, whether it is a suit, blazer or a pair of jeans.

“Meyer brings a fresh perspective and incredible depth of brand experience to Tiger of Sweden. I appreciate his unique sensibility, his honesty, and his authenticity. He is an exceptionally strong leader with the passion and energy that we need,” commented Peter Thorsen, Deputy Chairman, Tiger of Sweden.

Lindex signs unique industry initiative for more sustainable cotton

Lindex
Image Courtesy: azcm.it

Northern Europe’s fashion retailer Lindex, known for its rich offering of exciting and affordable collections of women’s and kid’s apparel as well as lingerie, has become one of the first companies to have signed an industry initiative for more sustainable cotton, led by The Prince of Wales’s International Sustainability Unit.

The initiative is in line with Lindex goal that 100 per cent of the company’s fashion cotton to come from more sustainable sources by 2020; the company has so far reached 91 per cent.

The Prince of Wales’s International Sustainability Unit’s cotton initiative is unique as it is the first joint industry commitment to more sustainable cotton. The initiative runs 13 large companies together and undertakes to ensure that 100 per cent of the cotton they use come from more sustainable sources by 2025.

Also ReadIndia’s AEPC partners with ILO to promote good practices in garment industry

“In order to achieve large-scale change, it is crucial that we work together in the industry. Therefore, we are proud to be part of this important global initiative. We have quickly made great progress regarding our cotton at Lindex, where 91 per cent now comes from more sustainable sources, and we look forward to continuing this important work, “says Ingvar Larsson, CEO at Lindex.

 

H&M initiates measures to improve workers’ condition

Garment Workers
Image Courtesy: voanews.com

Among the several steps taken by H&M to improve condition of workers at its supplier factories, ensuring the formation of trade unions for collective negotiation has been the major goal. To achieve this, H&M is training factories on negotiation skills, cooperation at the workplace, collective bargaining and labour law. The Swedish fast fashion brand facilitates dialogue between the employers and workers at the factories and in the labour market in countries where its products are manufactured.

Also ReadH&M plans proper pay structure, worker committees in garment factories

It is worth noting that nearly 300 factories are enrolled in the workplace dialogue and industrial relations programmes while over 3,70,000 factory workers are directly covered by democratically elected worker representation through its programmes run in Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, Ethiopia and India. The objective is to have democratically elected worker representatives and improved wage management systems in place at its supplier factories by 2018 and also to ensure that all workers have knowledge about their wages, benefits and rights.

It is good that such systems are being implemented at an increasing number of factories from 140 until the end of 2016, and an additional 96 during this year. Factories in Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, India, Indonesia, China and Turkey are participating in this programme. To bring a change in the fashion industry worldwide, H&M is planning to collaborate with partners to train both employers and workers on matters like co-operation at workplace and dispute settlement.

 

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IKEA Group names Jesper Brodin as new CEO

Jesper Brodin
Image Courtesy: gp.se

Sweden-based global furniture giant IKEA Group has elevated Jesper Brodin as new Chief Executive Officer after his predecessor Peter Agnefjall decided to step down. Brodin currently looks after IKEA’s product range and supply chain in Sweden. He will assume charge effective September 1 this year. This has been disclosed in a statement issued by the company.

He will be based in Leiden, the Netherlands, added the statement. Brodin will take over the helm of a furniture and retail empire with 348 stores, 45 shopping centres and 140,000 employees in 28 countries. Brodin’s association began with IKEA in 1995 and has since then worked in purchasing, product range development, logistics and group management.

Also ReadIKEA eyes to reach more Indian cities

“We have a lot of exciting things ahead of us. We’re growing, we’re keen on taking on new markets and we’re looking at how we can improve the customer experience in many dimensions,” Brodin was quoted as saying in media reports.

 

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Burberry’s Christoffer Lundman heads to Tiger of Sweden

Christoffer Lundman
Image Courtesy: tigerofsweden.com

The former Design Director of British luxury fashion house Burberry, Christoffer Lundman is on his way to Scandinavian brand, Tiger of Sweden. He will be joining the brand as their Head of Creative and Design from June 1 and showcase his first collection with them in January during the Fall/Winter 2018 shows. Lundman will be overseeing everything from men’s, women’s and jeans assortments and it will be the first time for the brand to line up everything under a singular creative direction.

Also ReadRocky Brands taps new President and CEO

With his twenty-year experience of designing for Burberry as well as his time at Acne Studios and Tom Ford where he spearheaded denim division, Lundman has a lot to offer and made a statement about his plans for the label, saying, “We mull to start working a new identity across all channels, and I will work with all teams to achieve this. At the moment, each collection has been running on its own schedule, meaning they’ve been out of sync with each other to some degree. We are planning to align the calendar so that we can work on the same themes and inspiration across the different collections. More than anything I want us to define a much clearer universe around the brand, a narrative that can run across all aspects.”

Per Hakans, Marketing Director also added, “as a Swede himself, Christoffer fully understands the importance and history of Tiger of Sweden to Scandinavian fashion. This, twinned with his undeniable talent as a fashion designer, makes for an incredibly exciting time to be part of the brand. I am sure his vision with the brand DNA will further build Tiger into a new and innovative future.”

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Polygiene and Sinterama launch 100% recycled fibre

Sinterama
Image Courtesy: sweetfiberyarns.com

Polygiene, a world leader in odour control and freshness technologies, in collaboration with Sinterama, an Italian manufacturer of yarns, has launched a 100 per cent recycled fibre “NEWLIFE” with Permanent Odor Control Technology.

Guglielmo Fiocchi, CEO, Sinterama said, “The agreement fits perfectly with the tradition and the strategy of Sinterama to develop and innovate constantly, giving our customers durable, healthy, green solutions, with additional features to delight the end user.”

Sinterama’s Newlife is a unique, complete and certified system of recycled polyester filament yarn made from 100 per cent post-consumer PET bottles. Polygiene Permanent Odor Control™ when treated with garments, cannot be washed out however many washes and repeated wear it undergoes. By treating the fibres with the odour-control technology, products can be washed at higher temperatures, a key benefit to the healthcare and workwear industry.

Also ReadRYU partners with Polygiene for odour-free apparel

Christian von Uthmann, CEO, Polygiene said, “We’re excited to begin working with Sinterama as this will open new doors for us in categories where we see large growth potential. The care sector where we first started, as well as the corporate/workwear industry will both benefit as Polygiene treated fabrics will be capable of withstanding industrial level laundering. In addition, the shorter lead-times with the ability of pretreated fabrics to be stored and colored is an exceptional market advantage to an even wider audience.”