Italy focuses on Vietnam as domestic market thrives

Ferraro Textile Machine
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ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, is gearing up for the upcoming SaigonTex Expo in Vietnam in order to find opportunities in overseas textile machineries market. With its domestic market flourishing, ACIMIT has decided to look beyond European market, and Vietnam is the next strengthening destination for the association.

Also Read29th Vietnam SaigonTex Expo to take place in April

ACIMIT will take part at the fair from April 5-8 in Ho Chi Minh City. 12 Italian exhibitors will set up their stands in a common exhibition space organized by the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) together with ACIMIT. The 12 companies, all ACIMIT associated members, are: Brongo, Carù, Cibitex, Ferraro, JK Group, Lgl, Marzoli, Mcs, Mei, Ptmt, Roj and Texma.

ACIMIT commented, “An essential production hub for the garments manufacturing sector thanks to its low labour costs, Vietnam is currently a major industry supplier for both the European and U.S. markets,” adding, “In light of the growing importance of Vietnam’s textile and garments industry worldwide, the need for upgrading and technologically modernizing production facilities has become a priority for local authorities.”

Also ReadItaly aims to increase machinery exports to Ethiopian textile market

For Italy’s textile machinery industry, Vietnam currently ranks among the top ten export markets. Over the first 10 months of 2016, exports to Vietnam amounted to € 39 million, a 6 per cent increase compared to the same period for 2015. The domestic market witnessed surge in the orders by 16 per cent with an absolute value for the index of 55.7 points from the October to December 2016 period.

 

Italian womenswear industry clocked € 13.07 billion in 2016: SMI

Womenswear
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As per the employee association of Italian fashion industry, Sistema Moda Italia (SMI), the Italian women’s ready-to-wear industry gained the third consecutive growth year in 2016, reaching a total revenue of Euro 13.07 billion. The growth rate over the previous year was 2.3 per cent, compared to a 2.5 per cent rise in 2015. Womenswear sector is doing rather well than menswear which increased only by 0.9 per cent to total revenue of Euro 9 billion in the last fiscal year.

Italy’s exports to Europe reportedly grew by 3.2 per cent between January and November 2016, and by 4.4 per cent to France, which is its main womenswear market, and by 5 per cent to Germany. Also, Russia depicts the recovery in exports and grew by 0.6 per cent in first 11 months of 2016.

Also ReadMenswear from Italy notes growth

Italian ready-to-wear apparel industry (overall) is expected to increase by 3.9 per cent in 2016, and sector is looking for trade surplus with the increase in industry’s total revenue approximately by 60 per cent. Imports are also likely to increase by 0.3 per cent, SMI said. Apart from this Italy’s domestic market is struggling to overcome and will spot a counter result for the fifth year in succession. Expenditure for women’s fashion in 2016 however fell by 2.7 per cent as per the market research report of Sita Ricerca Institute by SMI.

 

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Directa Plus gets funding for technological innovation

Graphene Textile Technology
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A grant has been awarded to Directa Plus, one of the largest producers and suppliers worldwide of graphene-based products for use in consumer and industrial products, for technological innovation in smart fabrics.

“Directa Plus has been allocated a grant for a research project into Graphene for Advanced Textiles and Fashion (“GRATA”), which has been awarded under a competitive public tender by the regional Italian Government of Lombardy. The project is a collaboration between Directa Plus, Novaresin and Soliani companies and the Politecnico of Milan University, with Directa Plus as project leader,” read a statement.

The project will focus on the development of G+ membranes to enhance the thermal and electrical performance of textiles for fashion applications. The total value of the project is expected to be approximately € 1 million, of which 40 per cent will be funded by the European Regional Development Fund via the Lombardy Regional Government.

Also ReadWorld’s First Graphene-Enhanced Sportswear launched

Giulio Cesareo, Chief Executive Officer of Directa Plus said, “Over the last six months we have made tremendous progress in the textiles segment, which has seen the launch of several customers’ end-products as well as an increasing pipeline of near- and medium-term commercial opportunities. With the award of this grant, we have a great opportunity to further develop our range of textile products to meet the demands of the textile industry for technological innovation in smart fabrics.”

 

Eurojersey teams up with Directa for new graphene apparels

Sensitive Jacket G+
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Eurojersey, an Italian warp-knit technical fabrics manufacturer, has teamed up with fellow Italian company Directa Plus for the first time to produce a collection of apparels made with the graphene as part of its ‘Sensitive’ fabric brand.

Unveiled by Eurojersey at ISPO trade show in Munich recently, the company will have its fabrics laminated with membranes made using Directa’s ‘Graphene Plus’ (G+) nanotechnology. This technology will allow for an even distribution of the heat produced by the human body in cold weather, and a heat dispersion effect in hot weather. The result, Eurojersey says, is an ideal thermal comfort level for every wearer, in any situation, which has not been accomplished with any other material.

Also ReadISPO Munich 2017: Eurojersey to display Sensitive Fabrics

Giulio Cesareo, CEO of Directa Plus, said, “We’re delighted to be working with Eurojersey and their Sensitive brand, with whom we share a commitment to quality, innovation and environmental-sustainability, and we are excited to further develop our joint products and look forward to bringing them to the market.”

According to Eurojersey, these apparels are characterized, in addition to the thermal features, by high elasticity and a high grade of breath-ability, waterproofness and windproofness.

Andrea Crespi, General Manager of Eurojersey, commented, “These fabrics are ideal for outfits that pair functionality and aesthetics thanks to the ultrathin layers, the raw-cut edges, and their resistance to pilling and to shrinkage. We believe that these qualities will attract the attention of brands that especially focus on innovation and performance.”

Both companies are now conducting joint R&D to further develop the prototype textiles into product samples that will be marketed to the customers of Directa Plus and Eurojersey.

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YNAP reports revenue boost

YNAP Store
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YOOX Net-a-Porter (YNAP), world’s leading online luxury fashion retailer, has disclosed its fourth quarter and full year sales. Its net sales during the year ending December 31, 2016 soared 17.7 per cent on a like-for-like basis to € 1.87 billion. On a reported basis, net sales however increased by 12.4 per cent to £ 1.6 billion.

Sales in the fourth quarter zoomed 11.4 per cent to £ 460 million. YNAP also recorded 28 million unique visitors last year against 26.7 million in 2015. The number of orders also increased by 18 per cent to £ 8.4 million. Lifted by sales of the luxury brand flagship stores it operates and strength in the Asia Pacific region, the company’s revenue was up to £ 1.871 billion in 2016.

In the UK, full-year revenue rose 2.3 per cent on a reported basis to € 269.9 million. During its fourth quarter, its net sales improved 19.2 per cent on a like-for-like basis to € 538 million; however, revenue from the region dropped 1.7 per cent on a reported basis to € 78.2 million during the period.

Also ReadSportswear giant Under Armour’s revenue soars 12%

“YNAP performed robustly throughout 2016, accelerating in the last quarter compared to the first nine months on an organic basis,” commented Federico Marchetti, Chief Executive Officer of the company.

 

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Diesel partners with Certilogo on apparel counterfeiting

Apparel Counterfeiting
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Diesel, an Italian retail clothing company, is set to roll out a new verification tool which aims to authenticate its jeans to fight against counterfeiting by the end of the year.

The denim brand has teamed up with an Italian firm Certilogo to produce a heat-printed QR code label which will be attached to the waistband on all its denim jeans along with the writing “Scan for Authenticity”. “In a new consumer landscape driven by appreciation for high quality, we embrace the trust of our consumers, creating a direct dialogue with them. With Certilogo we will empower Diesel fans to authenticate the unique identity of our denim, making sure they shop our original products in a safe and secure way,” says Alessandro Bogliolo, Chief Executive Officer of Diesel.

Wearers will be able to either scan the code using a QR scanner with their smartphone or enter the code in the online portal (www.certilogo.com) to verify if the denim is authenticated or not.

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“This is a smart move on Diesel’s part. The relationship between brands and consumers has changed in the digital age. It’s not acceptable to say, ‘Buyer beware and good luck’ about fakes when every one of us has the technology in our pocket to stop it,” commented Michele Casucci, CEO, Certilogo.

Certilogo currently features the Certilogo QR code in brand’s 5-pocket denim, which has been used by customers in more than 70 countries around the world.

 

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Colmar launches innovative jacket line

Technologic G+ Jacket
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Colmar, the high-end sportswear company, has launched a new collection of ski jackets containing the Directa Plus’s graphene-based product. Directa Plus is one of the largest producers and suppliers of graphene-based products.

The new collection consists of three ski jackets that have been designed by enhancing some of Colmar’s most successful ski jacket styles, reflecting Colmar’s established fashion heritage, with the inclusion of the Company’s G+ graphene technology. The Technologic G+ jacket is padded with wadding printed with G+. The Bormio G+ jacket has an outer shell made with a membrane containing G+; and the Guaina Zeno G+ jacket has a G+ lining.

G+ enables the fabric to act as a filter between the body and the external environment, thereby ensuring the ideal temperature for the wearer. Due to the thermal conductive properties of graphene, the warmth produced by the human body is preserved and distributed evenly in cold climates, yet dispersed in warm climates, and allows an even body temperature during physical activity. In addition, fabrics treated with Graphene Plus are also electrostatic and bacteriostatic.

Also ReadH&M unveils new high-fashion performance sportswear line

It may be mentioned here that the Technologic G+ jacket was selected as a Gold Winner in the ‘Ski’ category at the recently held ISPO Munich.

Giulio Cesareo, Chief Executive Officer, Directa Plus said, “We congratulate Colmar on receiving this industry recognition. With our innovative, tailor-made solutions that have been independently certified as safe for human health and the environment, we look forward to continuing to expand our offering in the world of sportswear, and the textile industry as a whole, and significantly improving clothing performance for the benefit of athletes, professionals and sports enthusiasts.”

 

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First textile finishing firm ‘Imprima’ opens in Italy

ItalyThe first Italian company solely dedicated to textile finishing, Imprima, is now open in Milan. The investment is made by Wise SGR which specializes in the management of private equity closed-end funds. Wise SGR invests in small- and medium-sized companies, with a special focus on Italy.

Imprima aims to establish itself as a leading textile finishing partner for the Italian fashion market with over € 30 million of investment already planned for developing an acquisitions programme and boosting technology in textile finishing sector.

Also ReadIndian textile industry to generate 50 million jobs by 2025: Report

Chiaretto Calò, CEO of the company said, “We are working to finalise other top level acquisitions in Italy and abroad. There are industrial solutions but their adoption on a global scale requires volumes, capital, human resources and management, which are in an advanced stage of the necessary learning curve.”

 

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Italian fashion brand Calzedonia to expand in China, USA

Calzedonia Store
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Group CEO, Sandro Veronesi commented, “In April we will open a Shanghai store showcasing our historic labels Calzedonia and Intimissimi. It will be our first store in (Mainland) China, part of a project for a further series of openings in the country, where Calzedonia is popular. We already have a retail presence in Hong Kong and Japan, and expansion in China will be a key step forward for our growth in Asia.”

Also Read H&M to open 430 new stores in FY ’17

It may be noted here that the Calzedonia Group operates over 4,000 stores (about 2,400 outside Italy) and has a staff of over 32,000 employees. In 2015, its 50 per cent of consolidated revenue was generated from outside Italy. So looking at the gripping turnover, the Group is looking to expand with new stores outside Italy.

Two months ago the Group announced its first US foray. “We recently opened a pilot mono-brand store in the New York area, where in 2017 we plan to have ten stores with the Calzedonia and Intimissimi brands. We are keen to test a market where competition is very strong,” mentioned Veronesi.

Calzedonia Group owns brands like Calzedonia, Intimissimi, Tezenis, Falconeri, Signorvino and Atelier Emé.

 

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Tod’s revenue plunges in 2016

Tod’s Store
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Italy-based luxury group Tod’s has stated that its total revenue in the year 2016 fell by 3.2 per cent at current exchange rates. Sluggishness in US and Chinese markets coupled with reduced sales of leather goods as well as shoes led to revenue plunge for the group last year.

The fashion retailer said that its sales last year were Euros 1.004 billion (US $ 1.08 billion). Its same-store sales last year were down 12.2 percent at constant exchange rates.

“Sales had improved in the last quarter of the year, compared to the first nine months,” said Diego Della Valle, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer adding, “However, the early feedback of the new summer collections is positive, and this confirms (that the company) is in the right direction, with the new strategy adopted giving us good signals.”

Also ReadTod’s reveals results for first nine months

Tod’s has numerous stores around the world, including large flagship stores in Europe, US, China, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Indonesia, and Australia.

 

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Italian brand SLAM opts for Gerber’s YuniquePLM In The Cloud

Gerber Technology
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Nautical fashion brand SLAM has opted for Gerber’s YuniquePLM In The Cloud in order to support their innovations and improve their time to market, accuracy and quality through their global supply chain, announced Gerber Technology, the world leader in integrated software, automation and vision systems for the apparel, graphics, packaging and other industrial markets.

Intuitive and easy to use, it integrates seamlessly with Gerber’s AccuMark® CAD software and the Adobe suite. YuniquePLM’s cloud-based subscription is flexible, scalable and eliminates costly information technology infrastructure with very affordable subscription rate, minimal implementation effort and a wealth of self-learning tools on Gerber University.

“After analyzing several PLM vendors, we chose Gerber Technology’s YuniquePLM In The Cloud for its comprehensive out of the box capabilities and the support Gerber and the infrastructure provides, including IT expertise, performance, accessibility and security,” said Michaela Lupi, Style and Production at SLAM.

Now-a-days, companies are under significant competitive pressures to design, develop and produce their products faster and more efficiently while ensuring they get the right products to market at the right time and at the right price.

Also ReadCelebrity Pink and Liverpool Jeans opts Gerber’s YuniquePLM In The Cloud

“YuniquePLM In The Cloud’s easy configuration and rapid deployment will allow SLAM to achieve a faster return on their investment. We are passionate about making it easy for our customers to design and develop great products. The configurability will allow SLAM to easily configure the application to match their specific needs,” said Bill Brewster, Vice President and General Manager – Enterprise Software Solutions, Gerber Technology. 

Italy-based SLAM is a privately-owned manufacturer of clothing, specializing in advanced technology sportswear, specifically sailing wear.

 

Italian Govt. allocates €35 million to promote fashion industry abroad

Made in Italy
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Italian Government has allocated €35 million to Italian Trade Agency (ITA) to promote fashion industry abroad this year. ITA is a Government organization which promotes the international growth of Italian companies in line with the strategies of the Ministry for Economic Development, along with the Ministry for Foreign Affairs.

Confirming the budget allocation, ITA President Michele Scannavini says, “This is a 45 per cent increase in resources (compared to 2016), which will serve to fund trade shows, multichannel marketing and distribution, expanding ‘Made in Italy’ brands into the world’s most important department stores, and e-commerce.”

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It’s worth mentioning that year 2017 is predicted as a difficult one for Italy as there are some critical issues going on such as stagnant sales, geopolitical tensions, and looming protectionism. To overcome the challenges, Minister for Economic Development Carlo Calenda is pushing for the fashion industry to adapt the rapidly-changing markets, and it will do so with the Government’s help by playing aggressively and investing to internationalize the Italy’s fashion segment.

Gildo Zegna, CEO of menswear brand Ermene gildo Zegna, predicts a much better year, “This innovative project maintains our identity, while going along with Minister Calenda’s ‘aggressive’ plan. The 2016 market was full of obstacles, but we are equipped to react more quickly and more efficiently—and now we are ready to take on new challenges. I am positive that 2017 will be better.”