Spring/Summer 2026 unfolds as a season defined by contrasts, one where emotion meets restraint and maximalist detailing finds new life within a framework of refined simplicity. Across the recently concluded fashion weeks, designers and high fashion brands alike offered a tactile reawakening, proving that surface, structure and sentiment are the key drivers fuelling the upcoming season.
Fringes and feathers emerged as frontrunners in the global texture race, with Bottega Veneta under Louise Trotter leading Milan’s 161% surge in feather use and New York surpassing even that with a staggering 600% increase, courtesy Diotima, Brandon Maxwell, Fforme and Luar.
Paris, remaining true to itself, translated these embellishments into couture-level artistry through the hands of Ann Demeulemeester, Balenciaga, Chanel, Givenchy and Mugler, while London once again diverged paths, embracing an offbeat, alternative direction that champions individuality over uniformity.
Yet, beneath the flourish lies a quiet return to ease. According to Heuritech and Tagwalk, minimalism has simultaneously risen between 50% and 200% across global runways, suggesting a market recalibration where both pared-down sophistication and decorative excess can now coexist.
Creative directors across cities collectively point to purple, crochet, lace, fringes, feathers and funnel necks as the defining codes of the season, layered with fresh hues such as pea green and intricate paisley revived by the best in the game. Etro. lace, satin and sheer fabrics reinforce the romantic narrative, with lace skirts forecasted to grow 13% in popularity in the U.S. and 20% in Europe – a clear signal of consumer appetite for sensual femininity expressed through texture and transparency.
For brands and retailers, S/S ’26 represents a delicate balancing act: investing in pieces that celebrate tactility and craft, while maintaining a modern, minimal sensibility that mirrors the evolving mindset of the global consumer.
PURPLE HUES
After the continued reign of neutrals and quiet luxury palettes, this season sees purple hues emerge as the defining colour story for the upcoming season.
A statement of individuality, spirituality and calm self-expression, the colour purple was first forecasted in Heuritech’s S/S ’26 trend analysis positioning it as the leading hue of the year, while Pantone’s colour forecasts for both London and New York Fashion Weeks also reinforced its prominence across global runways. What sets the tone apart this season is its versatility, spanning soft lilacs and romantic mauves to deep aubergine and rich plum, with equal impact in both womenswear and menswear collections.
Designers and brands are interpreting the tone through contrasting aesthetics- think minimal and sculptural at Jil Sander under the helm of Simone Bellotti, to bold and 1980s-inspired glamour at Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Beyond aesthetics, the rise of purple signals an emotional reset on the part of us as consumers- a counterpoint to years of restraint and neutrality.
For brands and retailers, this signals a clear investment opportunity across product categories spanning statement outerwear and tactile knits to evening silhouettes and tonal accessories, where purple in all its gradations will command visibility and drive commercial viability through the season.
COSMIC PLAY
A celestial narrative unfolded on the Spring/Summer 2026 runways, where designers were seen revisiting glamour through a cosmic lens, merging fantasy, craftsmanship and metallic opulence altogether. Parisian runways led the charge with a renewed fascination for the astronomical and the divine, transforming gold from mere embellishment into a storytelling element. At Schiaparelli, we spotted sculptural silhouettes in black, white and head-to-toe gold redefining what couture modernity means with garments resembling both art and artifact. A shredded gold gown revealing a silver inner layer emerged as a standout piece, encapsulating the duality of light and texture, while a two-piece constructed entirely from paint-brush tips blurred the line between material innovation and surrealism.
Gabriela Hearst infused her collection with celestial imagery bringing to life star motifs and inky sky-blue intarsias and gold-lacquered leather dresses that balanced mysticism with wearability. Mugler gave us a glimpse into the future, presenting bionic femininity through fluid metallics, planetary accessories and orbital silhouettes.
Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel was one to note, which further solidified the movement, showcasing tweeds and tailoring under a cosmic spotlight- a direct nod to Coco Chanel’s enduring fascination with the night sky.
For brands and retailers, the Cosmic Play trend offers commercial momentum across occasionwear and accessories. Expect gold finishes, iridescent coatings, and celestial details to translate into high-performing evening pieces and statement separates that are sure to capture both light and consumer attention.
FEATHERING WEATHER
Spring/Summer 2026 sees movement and tactility take center stage as designers embrace feather details and fluid embellishments that blur the line between structure and softness. Issey Miyake, known for their architectural pleats and origami-inspired techniques, showcased sculptural feather motifs that swirled around garments, creating dynamic silhouettes that moved with ease. A standout look from their collection features a vivid red co-ord set that balanced spectacle with wearability.
Stella McCartney advanced the narrative with cruelty-free feathers, adding sustainable flair to occasion dressing. Her standout look was a lilac-toned column gown that reimagined eveningwear through the lens of ethical luxury. At Givenchy, Sarah Burton explored textural play with feather-alternative fabrics rendered in peach tones over a supple bralette-and-skirt ensemble that embodied both sensuality and craftsmanship. The crescendo arrived at Chanel, where Matthieu Blazy’s finale look- an oversized white silk tee paired with a cascading, multi-hued feathered skirt- celebrated lightness, motion and artisanal precision.
This renewed fascination with plumage underscores a larger directional shift toward tactile opulence and textural play within fashion. Brands can interpret the trend by adding feather-like appliqués, fringed surfaces, and layered textures to garments, creating drama without the excess. For retailers, this translates into standout evening pieces and occasion separates that combine volume, elegance, and modern restraint- the kind of detail that instantly elevates a collection.
FUNNEL NECKS
Evolving as a refined alternative to the turtleneck and crewneck, the funnel neck emerges as one of the most versatile silhouettes for Spring/Summer 2026 – a modern essential that bridges comfort, polish, and quiet sophistication. Instantly recognisable via a softly structured collar that subtly frames the face, it delivers both elegance and function, positioning itself as a key investment piece for brands and consumers who seek seasonless appeal.
While Paris is synonymous with spectacle, several designers went for pragmatic luxury this season, grounding their collections in wearable silhouettes anchored by the funnel-neck form. At Balenciaga, funnel necks made their presence known in burgundy leather, shaped like a cinched poncho-anorak hybrid underscoring an urban take on utilitarian dressing. Stella McCartney reinterpreted it through a cropped taupe suede trench paired with wide-leg denim and crisp shirting, that offered a sort of understated ease, while Victoria Beckham and Magda Butrym tapped into sensuality, pairing funnel-neck jackets with lace minis, sleek eyewear, and pointed heels for a balance of structure and allure.
DARK ROMANCE
On the other side of the season’s radiant hues and celestial moods, Spring/Summer 2026 embraces a more introspective and gothic allure that is steeped in nostalgia, seduction, and subversive elegance. Most evident in Paris, the Dark Romance narrative saw designers and brands exploring fashion’s shadowed side with cinematic flair and emotional depth.
At Dior, Jonathan Anderson’s debut set the tone with a haunting film montage layered with gothic soundscapes by Ethel Cain and Lana Del Rey, leading into a collection that conjured fashion’s ghosts through capes, sheer lace, sculptural waists and witch-like hats. The result was both theatrical and eerily romantic.
Acne Studios followed with a modern Western-goth aesthetic that featured black leather, fringe detailing, gemstone accents and hard silver detailing that gave new light to rebellious femininity, while Alexander McQueen saw Seán McGirr honoring the house’s provocative heritage through sharp tailoring, corsetry and laser-cut leather while evoking the brand’s raw, emotional craftsmanship. Ann Demeulemeester continued her devotion to poetic darkness with lace, crochet, feathers, and fluid tailoring, a timeless ode to avant-garde sensuality.
The trend further extends itself into boudoir-inspired dressing, where lingerie details step into daylight. From Versace and Tom Ford to The Attico, designers elevated bralettes and corsetry as key layering or standalone statements, blending vulnerability with empowerment. For brands and retailers, this direction signals renewed consumer interest in gothic sensuality- think dark lace, sculpted silhouettes, metallic finishe, and romantic textures reimagined for the modern wardrobe.
PUFF PUFF PARADE
Volume reigns its prominence for the approaching Spring/Summer 2026 season, with designers reimagining inflated silhouettes through a modern, sculptural lens. The return of bubble sleeves, balloon hems and rounded proportions signals the fashion world’s continued fascination with exaggerated form, one that is airy yet assertive, playful yet poised.
This season’s take on volume can best be described as one that is less about excess and more about controlled drama, bringing softness and movement to otherwise structured looks.
Khaite presented puffed blouses that introduced a sense of romantic restraint by being voluminous yet balanced at the same time, owing to its tailored foundations. Balenciaga, on the other hand, leaned into its architectural DNA, showcasing balloon-hem skirts that fused ’80s nostalgia with futuristic precision. Across runways, designers used rounded shapes to redefine proportion and silhouette, framing the body in new ways while maintaining a sense of lightness.
ANIMAL PRINTS
Animal prints continue their evolutionary cycle for the approaching Spring/Summer 2026 season, shifting from classic leopard motifs towards a broader, more eclectic safari of patterns. Data-driven forecasts for S/S ’26 signal a renewed appetite for bold, statement-making surfaces emerging amongst consumer demand – one that sees zebra and dalmatian prints leading the charge and emerging as key contenders alongside the perennial leopard print – a mainstay since the past few seasons.
In the US, zebra print alone is projected to climb 17% in popularity, particularly among consumers aged 26 to 35, signaling its crossover appeal across fashion-forward and mainstream markets alike.
The resurgence of snakeskin, crocodile and cow prints further underscores a move towards textured, tactile finishes that balance edge with sophistication. Notably, cow print, which has been dubbed the “It” motif of the upcoming season, is set for an 87% rise in demand among women in the US. This reflects a consumer shift towards playful, unexpected interpretations of classic animal patterns.
For brands and retailers, this signals a strong opportunity to refresh perennial bestsellers through new scales, colorations and fabrications. Think abstract reworks, tonal variations or glossy embossed leathers – treatments that keep the motif relevant while aligning with evolving tastes for maximalism and statement-driven design.
