Looming in the silence before the storm that has now come to be identified as COVID-19, international runway showcases presented trends that would be shaping the fast approaching Fall/Winter 2020 season.
A whirlwind 5 weeks amid coronavirus fears disrupting the global fashion industry, as we know it, gave off a huge respite from the prior season – aka Spring/Summer 2020, by introducing a more commercially viable stance on fashion, which is much needed in a post-pandemic world.
With the entire world economy and fashion supply chain undergoing multiple and extended lockdowns, a notable shift in buying behaviour is expected to develop in the coming few months, rendering many trends ineffective and outdated, if not far-fetched.
As industries throughout the world gradually inch towards adopting the ‘work from home’ format in a more serious manner, consumer purchases will be driven by essentials, comfort and nostalgic themes over luxury spends.
In such a scenario, Apparel Resources looks to the runways to analyse and hand-pick trends that will be shaping up the world of fashion in the next few months.
From exaggerated proportions, to nostalgic fringe detailing, glamorous takes on eveningwear, peek-a-boo cut-outs and sliced details, punky hardware and voluminous forms, we bring to you the top 8 silhouette and detail trends for the Fall/Winter 2020 season.
Va Va Volume
Larger-than-life silhouettes dominated the eveningwear scene as designers and high-fashion labels alike resorted to using volume as a key detail for their Fall/Winter 2020 showcases.
Capaciously structured gowns in fantastical proportions at Christopher John Rogers, Molly Goddard, Off-White, and Christian Siriano amongst others created drama on the runway. The ongoing obsession with ’80s glamour and nostalgia continued as designers went for voluminous materials such as tulle and chiffon, all tiered up, ruffled or multi-layered.
This season, the fashion industry defied the usual darker coloured palettes generally associated with the Fall/Winter season, and instead, opted for rich, juicy hues as spotted at Moschino and Halpern as well as soft pastels – as seen at Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard.
Subtlety is in, as designers further the concept of less is more. Showing skin has never really gone out of style, and this season, it embraces the end of seasonal dressing by braving the cold.
Strategically placed cut-outs, spliced details and slits tastefully show off just a hint of skin, and further add an element of interest to otherwise sombre garments.
From trikini variations that show off just a little bit of the waist on dresses (as spotted at Dion Lee, Christopher Kane and Patricia Padron), to sliced shoulder details (à la Burberry, Toga, Richard Malone and Rouland Mouret) to slit across versions (as seen at Christopher Kane, A.W.A.K.E Mode and Dilara Findikoglu), many designers and brands were seen experimenting with the trend for the Fall/Winter 2020 season.
Dion Lee and Charlotte Knowles’ spliced trousers take has proved to be a big success at the mass market level with many fast fashion denim retailers quickly adopting the trend within their product mix.
Extravagance is back as designers and labels resort to updating basics by injecting drama via jewelled embellishments.
Three-dimensional details such as beaded embroidery, Swarovski crystals, coloured stones and metallic studs featured over a wide array of garments. The teal shirt at Louis Vuitton with tiny ombre toned embellishments created the perfect snowy illusion, whilst Area set the tone for the season with its intricately beaded silhouettes, veils and detailing.
One of our standout pieces was Dior’s finale piece – embellished in long feather-esque patterns.
Puffer and Quilted Detailing
Quilting details and padded silhouettes emerged as the new wardrobe staple as fashion sought to take inspiration from outerwear and translate it into other areas of fashion.
A trend totally in sync with the frostier months of the year, extreme padding was seen being adopted into loungewear, eveningwear and knitwear as well. Rick Owens took the trend to a whole new level by championing a ‘duvet dressing’ look that showcases a cape which can easily pass of as a blanket, featuring extreme padding and quilting techniques.
Moncler X Richard Quinn totally upped the game this season by merging the two worlds of outerwear and eveningwear to create quilted gowns and dresses that feature exaggerated sleeves and feminine cuts. Prada, Moncler, Hermès and Issey Miyake presented a more commercial take on the trend by introducing cosy fabrics, quilted outerwear and capes.
Designers are accentuating basics and sober outfits by introducing edgy hardware detailing into their collections. Linked metallic chains and punky chains are in for Fall/Winter 2020. Be it dangling in the form of a belt across the waist, or going all out by using body chains as a garment altogether (à la Area) or even elaborate chain dresses (à la Salvatore Ferragamo), chains are prevalent across the international fashion runways.
Y-Project’s body chain detailing over the main top of the ensemble, and No. 21’s approach to the trend, in the form of a sash over feather details specifically stood out as statement look for Fall/Winter 2020.
Blown Out Sleeves
Big is definitely better – a theme which is being communicated across product categories this season. From shirting to eveningwear to modest fashion, voluminous sleeve detailing was at the forefront of the Fall/Winter 2020 runways.
Fashion brands and designers played with supersized shoulders and blown out sleeves to take drama to the next level – Balenciaga and Area placed emphasis on extreme shoulders whilst Annakiki and Gabriela Hearst went on to showcase drama via statement making puffy sleeves.
Rodarte and Alexander McQueen channelled a romantic vibe by whilst Moncler introduced an eccentric take on the trend by amalgamating outerwear with eveningwear silhouettes.
Designers reach out to boudoir influences to accentuate the hourglass body for the approaching winter season. Corsetry, complete with lace up and boning details, waist cinching and sheer and lace embroidered fabrics emerge as key defining factors over materials such as slinky satins and soft, plush leathers.
Panelling played a major part at Ingie Paris and Alexander McQueen, whilst the denim coordinate version presented by GCDS stood out as a statement.
Designers and high-fashion brands alike look to embrace the Gatsby-ish vibe for the approaching Fall/Winter 2020 season by re-introducing frisky fringes as a detail trend across product categories.
Playful longline fringed detailing over tops, skirts, dresses and shawls emerged as a key takeaway across the fashion capitals with a variety of fabrications. Breaking the monotony of the typical fringes created using fabric and yarn, more dramatic variations such as beaded fringes at Burberry, Alberta Ferretti, metallic fringes at Ingie Paris, feathered fringes at Elisabetta Franchi, Givenchy and Issey Miyake, and contrast piping versions at Christian Wijnants took centre stage.