by Anjori Grover Vasesi
05-April-2019 | 5 mins read
S/S ’20 comes up with a continuing appreciation for craft and a new sense of minimalism that is arising through local design, one that actually speaks about a purpose. Sustainability is taking on new forms with plant-based fabrics, and an increase in farm-to-table ingredients found in beauty and health. Younger people are identifying with non-traditional gender labels and our insecurities and imperfections are now seen as beautiful examples of uniqueness.
Visions of a virtual world become more ingrained in our daily life and the futuristic advancements challenge our subconscious capacities, hence giving this season the identifying name of ‘Futuristic’. Advancements in technology give us a a clearer insight into the beginning of time, as we continue to reveal hidden secrets and treasures of the world. Designers like Axel Vervoordt reflect the elemental aesthetic of the trend as we merge ancient antiquities and modern minimalism.
Embracing the past, it can be seen that the pulsating excitement of the 1980s influences a modern-day look that’s all about amplified colour, sensual movement and fluid culture. A slew of today’s designers show how the toughness of the streets can inspire a surprising level of softness and femininity.
Pulling references from the ancient elements and modern biotechnology, the most innovative of materials balance both the past and the present, also keeping sustainability as the end result. As a result, we see that raw fibres, plant-based dyes, brushed and naped earthy knits take precedence.
Vintage fabrications are enhanced by simplified and innovative processes, where suiting takes a more plush approach. While cotton takes a more crisp approach, meshes take a more dynamic approach.
This vision of S/S ’20 is not only easy to reach but is also beautifully rooted in reality. The strong contrasts of the decade mean luxury and grit co-exist in a place that is as exciting as it is edgy.
Babylon takes its name from ancient Babylonia, a state and cultural area which encompasses the modern day Middle East. The Babylon woman is an archaeologist well-versed in the history of the region. She’s drawn to sites along the Nile and gets a thrill out of unearthing primitive artefacts and discovering early warriors. An explorer at heart, she’s empowered to unveil stories that go beneath the surface of material goods and reveal the livelihood that shaped foregone times.
Her wardrobe is composed of exotic elements like intricate pattern motifs, practical utility details and polished draped silhouettes. Ever the storyteller, the Babylon woman embodies a lifestyle that preserves the past and makes it relevant for the future.
Materials – colour faded linen, wrinkled chiffon, cotton openwork, gauze knit, woven raffia, softened canvas, printed stretch jersey
Design details – drapes, utility pockets, fringes, cutouts, embroidery, patchwork, tiered ruffles, relaxed fit silhouettes
Pattern + graphics
Antique dyes, woven market, marbleized camo, flax lines, tamed animal, bright damasks, primitive blocking
A rediscovery of traditional patterns and graphics takes on a global expedition as environmental influences provide an organic direction while the handcrafted compositions look towards an artisanal aspiration for an exploration of Babylon in S/S ’20.
Traditional stripes re-emerge amongst the woven techniques for a loom constructed sensibility as more crafted qualities take hold of the scarf prints for a feminine focus with a sensual appeal.
For a minimal pattern option, sub-theme Primitive Blockings showcases fresh modernity as the intricate markings sit beside oversized abstractions for a diversity within this season’s colour block compositions for encompassing impact.
Florals find a new outlook throughout the bohemian tufts and block printed directionals of Bright Damasks as the hue makes for a bold and playful pattern choice while the animal prints take a more muted route in Babylon, with the skins utilising a toned down approach to reflect the relaxed expedition this season.
Circuit speaks about the quest for innovation and technology that enlivens our senses.
At the helm of a leading virtual reality company, the Circuit woman seeks out galleries instead of gamers to bring her visions to life. Signature experiences combine vibrant colour, sound and light.
Sporty undertones add energy and inspire futuristic elements like holograms, while nature is another angle transformed through a hyper-realistic lens. The artistic gallery setting allows viewers to escape everyday life and immerse themselves in different worlds from lush tropics to calming meditative environments.
Materials – iridescent stretch knits, tie-dye denim, silken nylon, digitally printed silk, neon blocked knit, ultra-light chiffon, tension rib knit
Design details – cut-outs, zippers, drawstrings, knottings, contrast stitches
Pattern + graphics
Electric slither, ombre flow, dark wave, cognitive gradient, disrupted motion
A trip into the electrified collection of Circuit showcases a fresh perspective of hallucinatory patterns and introspective colours for an array of printed illusionary designs for S/S ’20.
More energy infused lines come forward with echoing details and blurs of colour for an exploration of fluorescent ombre prints, where flickering saturations receive a jolt of electricity for excitement.
Sub-theme Neon also finds importance amongst the wild jungle of animal prints for a playful take on a traditional pattern in Fierce. The tropicalia of the island looks toward the dizzying palm trees with a wavering stance as the Dark Waves find influence in the trailed graphics of the leaves for a mesmeric approach.
Playful tie-dyes get a psychedelic sense with a bright palette and a kaleidoscopic swirl of experimental technique for impact while a softer approach comes through within the whisper of hue tinged designs for a reflection of self-awareness and heightened consciousness through pattern and graphic compositions.
Lagom is a Swedish term for ‘just the right amount’.
We extend Lagom to capture a lifestyle inspired by Scandinavian design that is both minimal and functional with a dash of folk mixed in.
By trade, the Lagom woman is an interior designer working in an urban environment amongst respected creatives. While she is very much tapped into the urban design world, she lives further afield in a remote woodland cottage, surrounded by unspoiled nature. Her cultivated aesthetic reflects modern craft, sustainability and raw earth elements.
Materials – linen blended canvas, crafted intarsia, macramé, softened leather, puckered jersey, silk crepe De Chine
Design details – mixed media, knottings, fringes, belted waists, pleating, wrap styling, darts
Pattern + graphics
Sunset scapes, blanket stripes, in check, tonal stripes, floral smudges, soft ginghams, relaxed abstracts, basket weaves
The gentle collective of Lagom invites S/S ’20 towards prints that convey a relaxed composure with arrangements that derive from modest craftsmanship and tranquil sensibilities.
Soft palettes offer a view of ease within the patterns and playful lines. Peaches, oranges and other ripe delectables are key graphic options as Lagom explores the sun soaked environment, while florals take on a smudged exterior with blurred details for a refined laziness within the blooms.
Even traditional Gingham Patterns find a new calmness in structure as the boxed print utilises a soft presence for a more laid-back style.
Painterly aspects take hold in sunset compositions for an artistic ombre formation as more relaxed designs offer abstract elements with a focus on simple lines, hue direction and textural details for interest. Handcrafted inspirations bring forward a new plaid print, with basket woven influences creating textile-based designs with interlocking forms and gentle grids for a fresh look. Minimal lines also receive a warm weather update, as the modest and tonal focused stripes make for a casual pattern of a mild, easygoing assemblage this season.
Scene is about the woman who’s part of the scene and also prone to cause a scene herself.
Living a fast-paced life in the city, she takes her cues from the ’80s age of excess. As a publicist, she’s in with the in-crowd and no stranger to Page Six.
But this isn’t just a throwback look.
The Scene woman finds a way to make otherwise flashy elements modern. vibrant colours, shiny surfaces and metallics are wardrobe signatures, and she has a futuristic way of pulling it all together that works for daytime. At night, she takes more risks with strong tailored shoulders or volume, and even a bit of gritty street inspiration from denim to graffitti prints. From her power office to the pulsating club, the Scene woman is always in the limelight.
Materials – extreme bleached denim, washable silk charmeuse, metallic lame, burnout velvet, lightweight poly suiting, pastel denim, lurex stretch knit.
Design details – shoulder action, statement sleeves, sequins, statement sleeves, shoulders, feather trim
Pattern + graphics
Explosive colour, logomania, soft galactic, gritty art, spraycan dyes
An underground glam takes focus within Scene as the grit mixes with the glossy for a social and texture clash of excitement in S/S ’20.
Bright colours, airbrushed effects, space age graphics and retro patterns make for a collection of statement designs that take a nod from the past and utilise a futuristic spin for a youthful appeal.
Branding makes a powerful impact as Logomania finds the designers’ namesake as an all-encompassing pattern for effect while graffiti aspects focus on the more rebellious side amongst the Gritty Art compositions.
Ombres look toward the street influences too, as the Spraycan Dyes sub-theme emphasises on the overlapped fuzziness and rough textures. Space aspirations offer a candy coloured surrealism of dreamy planet centered graphics for a fantastical view.
Traditional checks re-emerge with a futuristic Glow Grid with laser lights creating a modern perspective as the markings form a playful energy in Spontaneous Squiggle for a range of patterns designs with a multi-dimensional appeal.
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