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Gucci to combine men’s and women’s shows

Gucci Runway
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Fashion giants like Burberry have already announced the merger of men’s and women’s expositions, and now Gucci is following suit as it is all set to make a major change in its fashion calendar by combining the two shows. The Italian luxury brand will showcase its women’s and men’s assortments together in a single show from next year onwards, with the first show taking place at its new headquarter in Via Mecenate, Milan.

The news has come in amid a mounting debate in the global fashion industry over the need to unify collections, shorten dates for shows and also putting pieces on sale soon after the presentations.

Also ReadBurberry changing its fashion calendar

However, unlike its competitors who are offering assortments to its customers straight after the show, Gucci will stick to ‘see now, buy later’ schedule, considering the requirements of the creative and production process in luxury fashion.

At the New York Times Luxury Conference, Marco Bizzarri, CEO of Gucci said, “Alessandro Michele (Creative Director of Gucci) has in fact always presented his men’s and women’s collections together, so this is a very natural progression. Moving to one show each season will significantly help to simplify many aspects of our business. Maintaining two separate, disconnected calendars has been a result of tradition rather than practicality.”

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Italian mill Candiani Denim opens design centre in LA

Denim Mill
Image Courtesy: denimhunters.com

Italy-based denim manufacturer Candiani Denim has opened its new design centre in Los Angeles, USA, as the city accounts for more than 30 per cent of the company’s business.

The design centre focuses on research and development of denim labels in the American market, allowing Candiani to experiment with different washes, techniques, and methods for denim manufacturing and design to provide its buyers products with fresh innovations. Alberto Candiani, Global Manager of the company informed Apparel News that in LA, people are concerned about not looking like each other… And with the opening of this design centre, they will get to see different techniques and ways to make their denim ‘unique’. “We keep exclusivity for the customer, but we share all this laundry knowledge with the customer and their production partners,” he added.

Also ReadTonello opens online laser design shop for denim washing

The centre houses a laundry and a development area. The laundry will consume less water than any standard dry cleaner in LA, marking continuation of Candiani’s walk on the sustainability route. Established in 1938, more than 20 per cent of the total cotton consumption of the company is sourced from Better Cotton Initiative, which further shows Candiani’s commitment to sustainability.

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Salvatore Ferragamo’s Creative Director departs

Massimiliano Giornetti
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Creative Director of Italian luxury label Salvatore Ferragamo, Massimiliano Giornetti is stepping down from his post after 16 years of being associated with the brand. He joined the company in 2000 as a menswear designer, before taking over the role of Creative Director in 2011.

Commenting on the departure of Giornetti, Michele Norsa, CEO of Salvatore Ferragamo said, “Over the years, the company has discovered and supported so many young talents and today can count on an excellent in-house creative team. We’ll seize this opportunity to revisit our approach to creativity.” Replacement of Giornetti is yet to be announced; Ferragamo’s in-house team will continue designing for the brand at the moment.

Also ReadBrioni appoints Justin O’Shea as Creative Director

Before joining Ferragamo, Giornetti worked with Rome-based designer Anton Giulio Grande on the development of the ready-to-wear and haute couture collections; he later worked as a designer for a knitwear company specializing in cashmere.

It’ll be interesting to see who will step into Giornetti’s shoes for Salvatore Ferragamo as the designer did well for the label for such a long course of time…

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Brioni appoints Justin O’Shea as Creative Director

Justin O’SheaMenswear couture house Brioni has appointed Justin O’Shea as its new Creative Director, effective April 1, 2016. He will be responsible for the brand’s collections as well as its image.

On appointing Justin, Gianluca Flore, Chief Executive Officer of Brioni said, “I am very confident Justin O’Shea’s new artistic direction for Brioni will be instrumental in strengthening our core values and continuing to drive dynamism and innovation into the brand heritage. Justin has shown an accurate understanding of the company’s DNA and historic roots and an assertive approach on how to make those values relevant for the brand today.”

Also ReadJean-Philippe Bailly appointed COO of Kering

Established in Rome in the year 1945, Brioni is known as one of the world’s most prestigious menswear couture houses. It develops and manufactures sartorial ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrance, in addition to the Su Misura – made-to measure – service. The company’s products are distributed world over through directly-owned boutiques and a network of selected department stores.

The company is a part of Kering group, a worldwide leading Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle group.

Tonello opens online laser design shop for denim washing

Denim
Image Courtesy: indianlocation.com

Assisting its clients in product development, Tonello, the Italian garment finishing technology provider, has now gone live with its online shop with laser designs and graphics. The portal stocks a wide library of images from simple to complex that can be used with any machine. These can be used for large or small samples, and combined with washes, dyes and finishes so that the users can create unique garments in very little time and without heavily investing in equipment or personnel. Everything is always at the client’s fingertips 24/7, quotes a statement released by the company.

Also ReadTonello presents multicolour laser to color denims

Under other key utilities, Tonello will assist its customers in realising designs and washes from pictures of samples.

The users can also contact Tonello for help in designing process, which can again be reproduced on the fabric and garment by Team Tonello.

The portal will also offer seasonal updates of the designs studied and researched by experts in the world of denim and fashion along with an instruction manual. Alongside the assistance with files for the laser, the portal also designs a data sheet for washing with tips and guidelines for getting the most from the chosen design. Moreover, for every design purchased, Tonello laser technicians will also help customers implement it, step-by-step, in the production process.

YOOX Net-a-Porter aims to improve its order management system

Order Management
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Italian online fashion retailer YOOX Net-a-Porter is going to deploy IBM’s Order Management software to manage orders.

Besides, IBM platform would free up time for IT services team to focus on innovation and development of bespoke e-commerce solutions. “This game-changing alliance will benefit our customers and brand partners, allowing us to push our ambitions even further as we continue to create the future of fashion. The partnership with IBM will enable our exceptionally talented technology team to focus on what it is renowned for: industry-leading innovation, cutting-edge technology and customer-centric solutions,” mentioned Alex Alexander, Chief Information Officer of the company, a systems integration specialist who worked at Barclays Bank and joined last year from retailer Walmart, where he designed an omni-channel strategy for its UK unit Asda.

Also ReadApparel retailer Lafayette 148 deploys DeSL’s PLM software

As per the company’s website, IBM Order Management will enable YNAP to enhance its omni-channel offer, allowing for seamless inventory integration between YNAP and the Brands’ distribution centres and retail network. The future rollout of even more flexible fulfilment options will deliver customers a truly omni-channel experience and a wider range of services, such as same-day in-store pick-up or home-delivery in an unbeatable time from the nearest store.

YOOX Net-a-Porter is a Bologna-based retailer of men’s and women’s multi-brand clothing and accessories, formed after the merger between YOOX Group, the global Internet retailing partner for leading fashion and luxury brands, and Net-a-Porter Group, the world’s premier online luxury fashion destination for content and commerce.

 

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Fashion label Valentino posts 48% revenue boom in 2015

Valentino Brand
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Italian fashion label Valentino’s CEO, Stefano Sassi has informed an Italian financial daily Il Sole 24 Ore that the brand noted 48 per cent increase in its revenue to € 987 million for the full year 2015. The company’s EBITDA touched € 180.2 million mark against € 98.5 million in the comparable period last year, and was equivalent to 18.3 per cent of total sales, compared to 14.8 per cent in 2014.

Sassi further stated that EBIT grew from € 43 million in 2014 to € 104.4 million a year later. The factors that pushed earnings at Valentino are – store growth in like-for-like terms, a 20 per cent surge by a retail network which now accounts for 55 per cent of total sales; good performance of wholesale channels; opening of around 20 to 30 new stores last year; and a favourable exchange rate effect.

Also ReadAmerican Eagle Outfitters: Sales shoot up 3.2%

Founded in 1960, Valentino is a clothing firm that also offers products in segments like footwear, accessories, etc. It operates around 160 mono brands across the globe. Accessories section has also fetched great profits for the brand. The section accounts for 55 per cent of revenue today as against 30 per cent a year ago. Menswear segment too did well for the clothier as it was worth € 100 million in 2015.

 

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FESPA Digital 2016: Durst to exhibit latest innovations

Durst Rho WT 250 HSItaly-based industrial inkjet specialist Durst is all set to showcase latest innovations and developments in the large format printing segment at the upcoming FESPA Digital 2016, which is scheduled to take place from March 8-11, 2016, in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

At the 2016 edition of the show, the technology provider will focus on ‘Durst Water Technology’, with presentations on Rhotex 500 – the first 5-metre dye sublimation printing system in the market for seamless and extra-wide soft signage/fabric applications. Besides, the new WT printer class with the Rho WT 250 HS for sustainable and odour-free advertising media and displays at the POS, will too be exhibited.

Also ReadFESPA Digital 2016: Digital Seminars to bring ‘digital textile printing’ on centre-stage

Also on display will be Durst’s Alpha 190, a new printing system from its traditional textile printing segment.

Durst offers one-step pigment inks and automatic material pre-treatment as well to create technological convergence designed to give even LFP specialists an easy route towards the production of home textiles, clothing and upholstery coverings, the company release mentions. Automation is also on priority in the Durst UV portfolio for further increasing overall system efficiency. In this context, Rho 1312 AF sets new standards with its feed, alignment and destacking units developed by Durst. The company will be showcasing all of these above mentioned and other innovations in detail at FESPA Digital 2016.

 

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Prada Finance Chief quits

PradaItalian fashion house Prada SpA said that its Chief Financial Officer Donatello Galli has resigned from his post. The company informed that Galli is exiting due to some personal reasons in order to pursue new career opportunities. He will be replaced as CFO by Investor-Relations Director Alessandra Cozzani, whose appointment takes effect immediately and “is a natural extension of the role she has already been playing in the management of the company,” it mentioned.

Prada further said in a statement, “There is no other matter relating to his resignation that needs to be brought to the attention of shareholders of the group.” The departure has come three days after the luxury goods retailer reported a second year of low sales, struck by crumpling demand in mainland China, strong dollar and terror attacks in the fashion capital Paris.

Also ReadPrada notes fall in revenue

Prada S.p.A. is an Italy-based luxury fashion house, specializing in ready-to-wear leather and fashion accessories, shoes, luggage, etc., founded in 1913 by Mario Prada. It would be interesting to note what new changes or solutions Cozzani will bring at the luxury fashion giant to get it back on profit making track. No doubt, the brand is facing tough competition in the luxury goods market from other labels like Gucci and Chanel, still Prada has got its own charm and is eager to note positives on its balance sheet again.

 

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Prada notes fall in revenue

Prada Store
Image Courtesy: prada.com

Italian luxury fashion house Prada has noted plunge in its preliminary revenues, due to low sales in Greater China region which is facing sluggishness in economic growth and a clampdown on extravagance.

Also ReadPrada targets cost reduction in 2015

The retailer reported that its consolidated net revenue dived 0.2 per cent for a year earlier to 3.54 billion euros (US $ 3.94 billion) in the 12 months to January 31, 2016. Further to this, a fragile Chinese yuan and a change in consumer’s buying behaviour towards more inexpensive brands have downcast the buying capacity of mainland Chinese tourists in Hong Kong, a traditional shopping hub, in the three months through January.

Besides, luxury goods maker’s shares have gone down by 44 per cent over the past year, underachieving the benchmark Hang Seng Index which has dropped 19 per cent in the same period. It has also been observed over a course of time that growth in the luxury goods market has dived to low single digits from more than 10 per cent four years ago, as consumers are looking for better deals which are less expensive and more affordable. This is making a notable shift in buying of other brands such as Furla, Longchamp and Kate Spade in the United States of America.

Also ReadPrada reports 8.9% dip in sales

Headquartered in Milan and founded in 1913 by Mario Prada, Prada S.p.A specializes in ready-to-wear leather and fashion accessories, shoes, luggage, perfumes, watches, etc.

 

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Italian machinery makers to focus on Vietnam market at Saigontex

saigontexHaving already become a major market for textile technology, Vietnam’s potential as a market for Italian textile machines will be tested at the upcoming Saigontex trade fair, scheduled to take place in Hochiminh City, Vietnam, from March 30 to April 2.

Saigontex, which is being held concurrently with the Vietnam Textile & Garment Industry Expo, happens to be the biggest and the most important trade and information platform in Vietnam. Since the 1990s, these two exhibitions are being held regularly at Hochiminh City and Hanoi.

Jointly organised by the Italian Trade Agency for promotion abroad and internationalization of Italian businesses, and the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), the event will host the 12 machinery manufacturers — all ACIMIT associated members — A Piovan, Beta Machinery, Carù, Fadis, Ferraro, JK Group, Mei, Pozzi Leopoldo, Pugi Group, Ratti, Rollmac, Tonello.

Now established as an important manufacturing hub for the garments sector, owing mostly to the low labour costs, Vietnam’s textile industry has recently been given a stronger boost by the free trade agreements recently signed with the European Union and United States.

Vietnam currently ranks eighth among the export markets for Italian textile machinery companies, with exports to Vietnam over the first nine months of 2015 touching €31 million, a 53 per cent rise from the same period for 2014. Among the products most in demand are finishing or ennobling and spinning machinery.

“In the face of these new scenarios, we’re expecting over the medium term a strong boost in demand for textile machinery by Vietnamese textile manufacturers,” explained Raffaella Carabelli, President of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers.

ACIMIT represents an industrial sector, comprising around 300 companies, employing around 12,000 people that produce machinery for an overall value of about €2.5 billion, with exports amounting to 84 per cent of total sales. Italian textile technology is sold to around 130 countries worldwide.

 

Argar Technology introduces high visibility knitted fabrics

High Visibility Knitted Fabric

Knitted fabrics manufacturer Argar Technology has unveiled a high visibility knitted fabric in order to substitute the 100 per cent polyester ones that are regularly used to achieve the chromatic specification fixed by EN20471 rules.

The range of fabrics, called HVis-Tes® Knitted Fabrics, was developed by double knitting technology, with 100 per cent polyester on the external face of the fabric, and 100 per cent cotton on the internal face. “This peculiar interlacement guarantees the extraordinary features of durability and endurance of polyester and the comfort that only cotton is able to provide in touch with the skin,” said a representative of the company.

The fabric is also available with antibacterial and UV-protection treatment (complying respectively with EN20645:2005 + EN20743:2007 and AS/NZS 4399:1996 norms). Tes-firESD®-HV is another range of protective knitted fabrics offered by the company, which provides intrinsic flame retardant, antistatic, arc flash protection functional specification, in addition to the high visibility property.

Also Read‘Knitting’ Growth through Technology and Innovation

“Far from restricting its HV products to simply just high visibility protection, Argar Technology developed a full range of multifunctional High Visibility Knitted Fabrics, which join to the HV safety property one or more protection levels,” the company adds.

Argar Technology was started with the aim of creating a completely localized manufacturing system embracing efficiency and the highest level of quality control against a competitive backdrop of low tech and low quality imports.