Fashion and textile associations across Europe are intensifying pressure on Brussels to crack down on ultra-fast fashion giants SHEIN, Temu and AliExpress. The Asian e-commerce platforms have been accused of flooding European markets with cut-price, non-compliant products, creating unfair competition, fuelling textile waste and exploiting workers.
In a letter seen by AFP, the signatories warned that the “unprecedented rise in textile waste” was placing “untenable pressure on European businesses”. They highlighted that 4.5 billion parcels were imported in 2024 from “the largest e-commerce platforms from third-party countries”, and called for urgent reinforcement of customs barriers.
Central to their demands is the immediate implementation of the European customs code reform, which abolishes the exemption from duties on goods valued under €150. The associations argued that the exemption disproportionately benefits Chinese platforms that ship small parcels directly to consumers. They also urged the EU to accelerate ongoing investigations, apply the “heaviest sanctions” available under European law, and introduce charges on small parcels. Further measures include opening dialogue with Chinese authorities and obliging companies to appoint EU-based representatives who can be held legally accountable.
Euratex, the European Apparel and Textile Confederation, spearheaded the initiative, joined by federations from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Greece, Switzerland, Belgium and Portugal. The joint declaration was signed at the Première Vision trade show in Paris and will be submitted to the European Commission.
Euratex president Mario Jorge Machado said the EU had “both the means and the duty to act now”, while UFIMH co-president Pierre-François Le Louët described the joint letter as “the first time that European federations have decided on a joint declaration”. Olivier Ducatillion, president of UIT, said it marked “the beginning of concrete actions without going through the meanders of European decisions”.
Pressure is also coming from national governments. France wrote to the Commission in late August urging it to obtain “new powers to delist” non-compliant platforms, with SHEIN singled out in particular.
The move reflects mounting frustration among European industry leaders who argue that current investigations, fines and legislative proposals remain insufficient to curb the rapid rise of ultra-fast fashion.
