Paris Haute Couture 2023 was a pendulum swinging between two opposing extremes that were united in a way that made it worthwhile to look at. Designs straight out of a huge blingy extravaganza were on one end and fluid textiles with harmonic overtones were on the other, creating a very relaxing environment for the audience. Schiaparelli, a haute couture house, exhibited some of its most sensational creations, which quickly became the centre of attention due to its use of lifelike animal heads as embellishments. Kylie Jenner, the person with the most Instagram followers, even wore one of these creations to the event. Robert Wun’s gothic haute couture debut at the show’s conclusion brought to light all the worst possible outcomes for a runway presentation.
Speaking about the styles, everything was on point. The show indeed predicted the biggest trends for 2023, from floor-touching cape sleeves to puff sleeves extending the diameter of the outfits, from statement bows to oversized coats, and from sequined metallic materials to sensual sheer fabrics.
Collars also grew in size and necklines dropped lower. Older decades’ inspiration continues to be displayed proudly. Along with all the other eye-catching features, pleats, ruffles and fringes ruled the runway with their classic feminine flair.
The designers this season also showed a significant focus on fluidity and lightness—on creating ensembles that could wriggle and wander throughout space and not be considered purely as fashion statements.
Here are a few of the most prominent trends from Paris Haute Couture Week 2023 that will dominate all summer capsule collections like nothing else.
Soft Ombré
After tie-dye made a major reappearance a few years back, a near relative of this vibrant print dominated the catwalks and fresh lines this season, just in time for the pleasant weather.
An ombré is a streak or pattern that gradually transitions from one hue to the next. In fact, the term ‘ombré’ itself is derived from a French word that means ‘shaded’. The print did reach its apex this year, transitioning from a two-toned appearance to a linear gradient.
Soft ombré was used by designers such as Julien Fournié, Fendi, Schiaparelli and others during Haute Couture Week. The audience of Rahul Mishra’s show was captivated by the elaborately constructed decorations as he used the ombré pattern in the most opulent way. The Fendi collection, in contrast, featured slinky, semi-sheer, silvery sheaths and slip dresses, frequently embellished with ombré prints.
Shimmery, Retro Fringes
Fringes are making a strong comeback, with styles ranging from western-inspired ’70s fashion to glitzy 1920s bohemian themes. They are expected to be one of the most significant trends of the year. This trim is utilised very well to improve the ensembles, whether it be long strands of glittering fringe adorning the lapels or tiny fringe finishing the full hem of a skirt. The trim has always maintained a partywear, disco vibe that has always gone in and out of trend, but 2023 seems to be its year.
Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Imane Ayissi and Aelis, among others, used retro fringes in endless ways to give their Haute Couture 2023 designs charisma and character. The fringes and prints of the 1980s served as inspiration for this season’s couture designs by Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, while the collection by Aelis included a short garment with crystal-covered fringes that, when they moved, were supposed to mimic ‘the movement of the galaxies’.
Metallic Colour Scheme
Metallic is probably one of those special colour combinations and hues that keeps coming back. The silver, gold and bronze hues of this colour scheme, which are often prevalent during the holiday season, are now adorning summer wardrobes. This style is being incorporated into everything, from garments to footwear to jewellery.
This Haute Couture Week, metal tones were a major trend on display. The Indian fashion designer Gaurav Gupta dazzled everyone with his opulent, sculpture-like creations. According to Gupta, the runway show’s ‘finale was about Egypt and time—the gold, the black and the metal’. Elie Saab outfits had jewels and gemstones braided into the lightweight capes’ metallic hair. Other designers like Yuima Nakazato, Christian Dior and Fendi used a similar scheme.
The trend is definitely going to steal the dominance of chic and feminine colours like hot pink, tangerine and purple which were loud during the warmer months.
Exaggerated Sleeves
The distinctive element of the current ‘luminous silhouette’ fashion trend that everyone is adopting is the exaggerated sleeves. Wearing such lavish, puffed-out, floor-touching sleeves, as well as feeling extravagant and making a bold statement, has become popular. Throughout Paris Haute Couture Week, sleeves that departed from the ordinary and made a mark could be seen everywhere. This style made every design worthwhile, from wing-like structures to floor-length cape designs.
Alexis Mabille, Julie de Libran, Juana Martin and many other designers used exaggerated sleeves throughout Haute Couture Week to boost their designs. Exaggerated sleeves were also prominent in Valentino’s vibrant and daring collection, which also included gigantic motifs, endless ruffles and deep necklines.
This design trend that our favourite celebs and fashion influencers have been utilising to make statements in everything from their street style to evening attire is definitely going to stay.
Gaze-Worthy Trains
The idea of ‘train dresses’ originated during the Victorian era, when royalty donned fanciful, never-ending lengths. By showing up on dresses, coats and sleeves, the designs’ customary long, flowing trains gently incorporated ‘Haute Couture’ into Paris Haute Couture Week 2023.
At Gaurav Gupta’s show, there were midriff-baring blouses, elegant, train-laden skirts and cut-out gowns worn over glistening stockings. Italian designer Sofia Crociani debuted a flowy, laid-back couture collection at Aelis that was laced with retro details and given life by flowing trains.
Sequins All The Way
Previously reserved for the holiday season, sequins have earned their promotion to year-round wear. When it comes to this trend in 2023, the more shine, the better. With all that glitter, bright hues and neutrals will gain an extra pop, elevating the speciality of this year’s top looks. Sequins are increasingly appearing in formal and informal clothing as well; they are no longer just found on party dresses and bridesmaid gowns. In Paris Haute Couture, sequins were widely used. There was a definite prevalence of those tiny, gleaming discs. It was quite obvious to the designers that this style was going to last. The recurrence of sequins, from pop sequin decorations to metallic sequin fabrics, looked admirable.
Chanel, Alexis Mabille, Georgio Armani, and Juana Martin, along with many other designers, used sequins as their core element. Imane Ayissi, a haute couture fashion designer, dazzled everyone with a vivid and daring collection owing to the hot pink sequined dress and electric blue sequined gown. Even Chanel incorporated sequined semi-formals in its collection.
Saucy Sheer Textiles
Two major reasons why sheer looks have not gone out of style in the last few years are that first, people want to be seen, and sheer materials for them mean ‘dressing in presence’. Secondly, with challenges against women’s rights at the forefront, hyper-feminine and body-baring trends defy a climate created by legislation that restricts women’s autonomy over their bodies. Seemingly with this idea in mind, a multitude of different sheer pieces cropped up during Paris Haute Couture. With the use of maximalist ornamentation and minimalist silhouettes, many designers took a risk and created some of the most jaw-dropping creations.
Designers like Schiaparelli, Rahul Mishra, Julien Fournié and Zuhair Murad used the most of Sheer trend. With the faux animal heads on Schiaparelli‘s dresses, Schiaparelli created an internet sensation, while the voluminous, nature-inspired translucent clothing in Rahul Mishra‘s couture line highlighted its typical maximalism, from semi-transparent embroidered bodysuits to micro dresses with gold interwoven details that create a defined form.
Take a ‘Bow’
Bows have roaringly returned to fashion and are no longer restricted to kid’s wardrobes and royal bodices. The new bow traverses all different aesthetics, from ball gowns to sleek formals. It is a detail that is frequently linked to delicate hyper-femininity. From making a statement by showing up in solid gowns to subtly being embellishment on the centre of the waistline, bows have been prevalent during Paris Haute Couture Week.
Adorable, eye-catching bows that made a statement adorned the collections of Viktor & Rolf and Valentino, adding to their feminine and endearing feel. On tops, bombers and black dresses from Imane Ayissi’s collection, bows could be spotted on the embroidery embellishments.
