by Nitish Varshney
19-February-2019 | 8 mins read
Lately, the garment manufacturing has not been so alluring due to buyer’s pressure on the manufacturers to reduce their margins. However, the manufacturers are worried as raw material cost is already skyrocketing and they are bound to increase the prices of their products too. But, the question will always remain the same as why the buyer should pay what you ask them for? The answer lies in the fact that the manufacturers have no other option than providing the best of quality and improve their floor’s productivity to fight this price challenge.
In mass production, there are a lot of operations where quality can be improved. One of such operations is sleeve hemming which is still an overlooked operation when it comes to using automation to improve both productivity and quality. Sleeve hemming in knitwear (especially a t-shirt) is done by folding the edge and stitched by sewing machine. However, the manufacturers who want to opt for sewing technology for such operation but are unaware of what popular options are available in the market, Team Apparel Resources discusses them here.
Juki has a lot of sewing technology varieties in its product basket. For t-shirt sleeve hemming, Juki offers MF7500/U11 machine which is Universal sleeve hemmer though basic type, and not fully automatic. The machine can be used for the hemming process of the sleeves and bottoms of T-shirts and for the covering process for sportswear and knitwear. The front cover is trimmed to allow operators to bring their hands closer near the needle entry area, thereby increasing work efficiency in the covering process.
With new feeding system, the feed locus can be adjusted in both vertical and horizontal direction, thereby improving responsiveness to sewing materials. The longitudinal position of the feed is adjustable. As a result, uneven material feed and puckering that are likely to occur when sewing products made of elastic material are reduced. This means that the machine promises improved responsiveness to elastic materials hence provides better quality of hemming operation.
Markedly, unlike the conventional models, the oiling mechanism inside the frame has been eliminated and replaced with dry-head technology. As a result, oil does not leak from the needle bar, presser bar or spreader shaft.
In another development, the machine comes equipped direct-drive motor system as well as with a thread trimmer. As a result, the sewing machine starts up swiftly and promises increased stop accuracy, thereby demonstrating improved responsiveness. In addition, the machine is no longer provided with a V-belt. This means that the adoption of the direct-drive motor is also effective in the elimination of belt shavings. Power is directly transmitted from the motor to the sewing machine, thereby contributing to reduced power consumption. This sewing machine reduces power consumption by 29% as compared with the conventional models as claimed by Juki.
Japanese pioneer in providing industrial sewing machines Pegasus has EXT-5100 series for t-shirt sleeve hemming operation. The machine automates and deskills difficult sleeve hemming operation in knitwear.
As far as machine mechanism is concerned, the operator just has to place the fabric in the needle area and the machine automatically performs the hemming operations by sensing the edge of fabric through a sensor, thereby, provides uniform and quality product.
Further, small cylindrical bed is provided for small cylindrical garments. The circumference of the bed is just 148 mm which helps sew the small goods smoothly such as hemming sleeves on kidswear and t-shirts.
Markedly, there is a push button to adjust stitch length. All the operator has to do is press the button and turn the machine pulley. Thus, the feature has eased the process.
Moreover, the machine has equipped with various labor saving devices such as vertical type vacuum chain cutter, electric hemming device, fabric tensioner, presser foot lift and pneumatically-operated lint collector. All these devices help operator save time of operation thereby improve productivity to a greater extent.
Japanese sewing technology provider Yamato offers VG2700-8, a high speed 2/3 Needle Cylinder-bed Interlock stitch machine with air-operated automatic underbed- and top thread trimmer. The machine provides hemming operation at the sleeve and bottom of T-shirts and polo-shirts and ensures smoother operation
The machine is studded with “Active Thread Control (PAT.P)” which, unlike the conventional way of thread control, takes in and draws back thread when it is required, and well-balanced seams with minimum necessary tension for thread regulation. Besides “Non Stain (PAT.P)” technology is introduced to minimize oil stains in the garment products which stops oil splash during sleeve hemming operation.
In addition, VG2700-8 comes fitted with “Walking Foot (WF1)” system which is primarily installed to slide back and forth in co-operation with lower feed dogs, movement and the pressure of presser foot can be set as lower as possible with this system. Therefore, it makes smooth feeding and the effect to prevent twisting during the long hemming operation.
Schips HS C9K
Swiss sewing technology provider Schips is one of the prominent companies which provide sleeve hemming solutions. Its HS C9K, a 2 needle cover stitch machine, can perform hemming of sleeves, breast pockets, front and back parts of T-shirts and polo shirts.
The machine provides high quality and consistent hem width from the beginning to the end of seam due to the optimum conception of features such as hemming guide, special sewing parts, top conveyor belt, right hand independently driven side knife and thread chain cutting system. High productivity is achieved through the quick and permanent loading of the automat and practically uninterrupted sewing with maximum sewing speed.
Further, fully automatic sewing cycle is achieved because of the conveyor belts integrated in the table and stacker, resulting in reduced training time of the operator. Moreover, movable frame with height adjustment for ergonomic working eases service. Flexible upgrades of the modular automat is possible in the machine as it is supported by the high-tech and efficient electronics.