by Nitish Varshney
19-June-2019 | 8 mins read
Year 1919 of inception to year 2019 of becoming one of the leading circular knitting technology provider! Yes, that’s Santoni for you.
The Italian producer of circular knitting machines for men’s and women’s hosiery, and then the pioneer in seamless technology has successfully marked 100 years of existence, the celebration of which will take place in ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain which is scheduled to be held from tomorrow.
Santoni will showcase its wide array of knitting technology during the 7-day event such as the latest seamless circular knitting machines, sock knitting machines, large diameter fabric knitting machines, and also process finishing machines. It cannot get bigger and better than this.
Santoni will have a double storey booth spanning over a space of 1,400 sqm – in Hall 08 C201 – and invites the manufacturers of the most diverse textile sectors such as underwear, sportswear, beachwear, external, medicalwear, denimwear, smart-textiles, socks and footwear as they can explore all the inventive and newly patented machines, innovative production processes and a dedicated product trend area.
Santoni all set for a remarkable show…
X MACHINE and XT MACHINE
In its vast portfolio, Santoni has recently added a brand new patented ‘X MACHINE’ and ‘XT MACHINE’ which, with their ingenious intarsia technology, take automatic finishing system for seamless boxers to new heights. This technology offers the possibility of knitting countless Intarsia items for creating seamless, knitted shoe uppers using a revolutionary 3D intarsia technology that maps the foot for perfect fit and form as well as offering unlimited patterns and colour combinations. This machine knits different sustainable fibre yarns into one-piece uppers, complete with eyelets, ready for immediate attachment to the sole.
Today, shoe manufacturers can benefit from the innovative single-cylinder XT MACHINE INTARSIA electronic knitting machine with all the above intarsia features but also offering intarsia knit products with breathable mesh areas with cushioning and/or transfer-stitch points knitted in sculptured terry. This is the first INTARSIA machine, as claimed by Santoni, in the world capable of producing transfer loops and sculptured terry on the same course. This machine is protected by more than 10 new patents that Santoni has already filed and those have been approved.
Within the seamless range of machines, there is a technological re-vamp of the renowned model SM8-TOP2V, with 4 models on display in diverse gauges. SM8-TOP2V is a cut and sew machine which applies a gusset into each boxer with a 4-needle sewing head completing the whole process automatically and offering the finished boxer ready for the final packing stage. Additionally, the SM8-TR1S and the SM8-TOP4J have been completely updated and equipped with new structural elements and electronics.
Furthermore, the updated versatile Mec-Mor technology, with the type Cmp2/Open and type HP machines are still the only machines on the market equipped with needle-shifting movement of the needle beds, a bi-directional transfer on the same feed allowing variable widths of the knitted panel. Mec-Mor is known throughout the world as the only alternative range of machines that looks circular but performs like a V-bed machine.
This unique technology, displayed on 20 gauge, enables the production of weft double-face knitted garments with high-quality designs as well as cut down on production times.
The technology can be used to produce accessories, such as 3-D backpacks, where various yarns can be knitted into adhoc positioned areas in order to obtain a seamless structure that guarantees superior product performance. Other products that the Mec-Mor can manufacture are sportswear performance garments and knitted men’s jackets.
“Recently, acclaimed footwear brands have appreciated the wonderful shoe uppers created on the Mec-Mor bringing sharpness to high definition patterns, and the flexibility to place logos and different structures practically anywhere within the shoe upper. It can create the shoe upper structure in a single operation reducing the seams usually prevalent in standard footwear production cycle,” avers Santoni.
Sock Knitting Machines
The following two new models join Santoni’s world-famous range of sock knitting machines:
The new single cylinder machine HT 50, with one feed, produces heavy socks in terry with 4 colours plus ground on the same course. There is the possibility of knitted or laid-in elastic for a single or double welt, or a 4-colour pattern double welt with tuck stitch. The knitted socks can be in plain mesh, normal/sandwich/sculptured and patterned terry.
Further, it offers a round trip selection during patterning. Also, three technical ways of knitting the heel with the needle being able to move with both forward and backward movements, increasing in this way the textile possibility of the final product. The heel can be shaped more independently without any mechanical constraint (without pickers). Thanks to the independent selection of the needles, the machine works in a reciprocating movement, enabling the heel to be placed anywhere on the sock.
The ‘retractable butt’ system in the machine improves the quality of the fabric, making it more uniform, creating a more superior end product.
Other machines are ZENITH HS, PULSAR Double Face and ZENIT 2.4 JE mesh RP which will also be exhibited. Fine gauge is the strong point of these machines. This time fine gauge is used to knit a double face fabric which allows the use of two different yarns, for true plating, keeping the fabric light.
Besides fine gauge, there are two single jersey machines. One model is the only machine which can run four different knitting stitch construction. The other model maintains a perfect balance between productivity, plating quality and productivity versatility.
A dedicated area will showcase the K FABRIC – PROJECT which is a revolutionary process answering the requirements of the modern fast fashion market that demands customised, rapid and short production cycles. It takes advantage of the Group’s circular knitting machines transforming the circular knitted meshes into a linear fabric, with incredible cost and fabric quality advantages.
On the ground floor, visitors will get to see a special pathway which has been created to visually accompany and impress them by Santoni. Technical performance shirts, smart-textile items, new-concept garments, backpacks, a huge variety of socks, and unique footwear will be on display.
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