R&D in garment technology is today coming from only a few well-established names. Durkopp Adler is one such company which has been regularly offering innovations in sewing machines and specialised operation machines to improve productivity and reduce manpower dependency.
Recently, Durkopp Adler, along with its marketing partner EH Turel & Co, hosted an introduction session in Chennai to acquaint the industry with its latest offering.
The guest list was an impressive reflection of the growing apparel industry in the region with a focus on bottoms/trousers.
The show puller at the session was the new sewing unit for run stitching of straight and slanted pocket openings under the model number 100-68.Apparel Online catches the event hands-on from Chennai.
The three key highlights made by Karin are – flexible application with 120 different seams, maximum precision of sewing lengths and corners incisions due to step motor technology and easy operation due to coloured display with touch screen
While inaugurating the event Vikram Sona, Marketing Manager, South Asia, Durkopp Adler said, “After the acquisition of the company by the Chinese group SGSB, Durkopp Adler has spread its competence to low priced basic machines also, though our core strength still remains high technology machines which are manufactured in Europe,” Acknowledging the support of EH Turel & Co in the growth of its market share in India, Vikram said, “High Tech- machines require skilled backup and prompt service including training, which was made possible with the hands in glove approach of our marketing partners.”
Welcoming industry experts, Viraf Turel, MD, EH Turel & Co assured them of continual solutions to address their technology needs. “The company, with more than 50 years of experience in this field, has become a centre of competence committed to customer satisfaction, working with some of the best names in garment technology in the world today,” he said.
He further urged the industry to invest in automation, which according to him is the most critical need of the hour to overcome buyer requirements in price, quality and delivery. Stressing the reason for the interaction he said, “It is difficult for the industry to keep pace with latest offerings, so it has become the responsibility of the manufacturing and marketing companies to keep the industry informed through regular dialogue.”
Karin Brinkmann, Product Manager, Durkopp Adler detailed the new sewing unit 100-68, bringing out each of the features that make it different from the earlier version and superior to other similar technology in the market. “The special features added to the machine are designed to address the needs of precisions in quality for piped pocket technology,” she said. The application of the technology is found in production of trousers, jackets and blazers. The three key highlights made by Karin are-flexible application maximum precision of sewing lengths and corners incisions due to step motor technology and easy operation due to coloured display with touch screen.
It is difficult for the industry to keep pace with latest offerings, so it has become the responsibility of the manufacturing and marketing companies to keep the industry informed through regular dialogue
The passion with which Karin explained the improvements was contagious and there was much excitement at the unveiling of the machine and later to discuss and understand the implications of the innovations. The guest at the event also had many positive things to say about the new technology. Devandra Bajaj, MD, Naru Exports, the first company to invest in the technology was very upbeat of the performance. “Trained manpower is very difficult to find and investing in labour saving equipment is the only way forward.
It has saved the requirement of at least 8 people which is a major saving in its self, besides improving productivity and quality,” he argued. Added Ashutosh Goenka, Director Meenakshi Limited, “Pocket welting machines are always helpful and the advantage of the new innovations is that it is easy to handle and it does not need very skilled labour so we save on training and even the workers can innovate on the machine after some time.”
The fact that buyers were increasingly looking at India for trousers seems to have motivated many companies to invest in bottom plants. A recent entrant, Jakmans has invested in a complete unit fitted with Durkopp Adler machines. “The expansion in trouser manufacturing is very buyer driven and as they increasingly ask for trousers from regular suppliers, it makes commercial sense to invest in manufacturing. Further, there is less frequent change in trouser designs and so productivity can be achieved more consistently with the help of specialised machines for critical operations,” said Sunil Mehta, CEO, Jakmans.
Interestingly, while most of manufacturers were looking at the machine for huge volumes, V Selvam, MD, Sri Ramana Garments found the technology useful for small quantity, superior quality and fast turnaround business, particularly for European countries. “With the quality standards that the EU is asking for, working on high technology machines is the only answer and fast turnarounds is possible with efficiencies that only specialised machines can provide,” he said. He expects the technology to add another 30% to his top line. Another company that has invested in the machine is Indian Design Team Pvt Ltd. “We have the technology in operation for our bulk trouser manufacturing unit in China, manufacturing 1 lakh quality pieces a month,” said KS Krishnan, who owns a truly global company with facilities in China, India and marketing support in New York. In India they are manufacturing hospital wear for the US, besides shirts and some trousers.
It is not only the exporter that is looking for quality and among the guest were many domestic players. “With the retail market in India warming up, there can be no compromise on quality and that is where technology plays a role,” said Raju Gorule, Production Manager, Pothys Clothing, which owns the brands Soda, Otto and Oracle for the retail segment.
However, a note of caution came from RM Shankar, Divisional Manager, Industrial Engineering, SM Apparels, “The machines are no doubt helpful as automation is required for critical operations like waist band, pocket and loop attachment, but the cost has to be justified, especially as the Chinese are coming up with less expensive options almost every day,” he said. He did however admit that German technology was the best and suggested that Durkopp Adler should built capacities to assemble the machines in India as it would go a long way in bringing down the prices and assuring continual service.
Innovation in the Piped Pockets Technology, 100-68 … A Revolution
The 100-68 represents an innovation in the piped pockets technology. Apart from being used for straight and optionally slanted trousers pockets, inside and outside pockets of men’s jackets and ladies’ blazers as well as breast welt pockets it is now – as a complete package – characterised by an even higher flexibility due to the new automatic corner incision device, that swivels freely.
Straight and slanted pocket are freely programmable in all variants whatsoever without mechanical adjustment of the corner knives. The result is a perfect seam quality by displacement-free and flat sewing. In case of thread breakage, the needle thread monitor puts the corner knives out of operation automatically and the sewing operation is stopped. The coloured display with touch screen allows easy operation and quick access to modifiable parameters. The folders can be changed from double piping to single piping in
a few seconds.
“Durkopp Adler Positioned Strongly in the Garment Industry” – Vikram Sona
With more then 200 industry informed people from floor managers, production heads and MDs attending the well organised show, the Team of Durkopp Adler and EH Turel were a satisfied lot. Speaking to Apparel Online, Vikram Sona expressed his upbeat mood as the industry comes forward to embrace latest technology almost as soon as it hits the market.
“We have proved through our earlier machines that we deliver what we promise and the faith and good will of the industry looking at specialised machines is with us,” he said. The number of factories going in for these automated and semi-automated systems is on the rise and with a broadened product line to suit almost every pocket, Durkopp Adler is positioned strongly in the market.
“The most encouraging aspect of growth is that the companies investing in the machines are no longer big ones who supposedly have the funds, but also those who are serious players with a firm eye on the international market and global benchmarks. I see a steady climb for the industry propelled by the right mix of technology and management skills,” he concluded.