by Shubhi Srivastava
18-January-2019 | 6 mins read
Menswear fashion is now the booming arena for all fashion gladiators to venture into and the same stands for Milan, which recently hosted its A/W’19 menswear fashion week that was emblematic of the progressive way this segment is developing.
According to data from statista.com, the total annual turnover of the Italian menswear clothing and apparel industry increased from about eight billion euros in 2010, to over 9.3 billion euros in 2017 and is expected to reach a whopping number of 9.5 billion euros in 2018.
The Autumn/Winter 2019 season is being seen as a time where fashion is more about socio-political activism because the menswear runways are dripping with bold hues of anti-sexual harassment movements against soft backdrops of inclusivity of all. The same was seen at the Milan Menswear Fashion Week A/W’19 as most designers went for one mantra- Feminine touches were not just a value edition, they were a necessity.
A blatantly raw design sense dictated the runway collections as Emporio Armani went for the primitive traveller theme striking the formal-sportswear balance, Versace and Marni changed the norms menswear was known to operate on as Donatella Versace aimed for men’s ‘greater freedom to express themselves’, while Francesco Risso talked about ‘the new youth’. Dolce & Gabbana trudged upon a carefully curated collection in the wake of its recent China racism scandal.
Following similar lines, the collection featured silhouettes that were body accentuating and spotlighted design details such as glistening, sheer textiles, sequins and embellishments, laces and scoop necks. Outerwear for the season steered away from its conventional solid hues to more progressive prints that revamped usual motifs such as animal prints and geometrical patterns with a touch of novelty provided by photographic as well as artistic brushstroke prints.
Here are some of the trends that ruled the men’s fashion week this time around.
Unlike the conventional baggy and boxy silhouette menswear winter fashion adheres to, designs were now more body accentuating which was achieved by the use of waist belts- with trench coats, jackets, shirts and sweatshirts alike.
In materials like faux leather, glossy vinyl, heavy satin and even embroidered sheers, belts were present in multiple variations, with plain tie–up closures, as wide fabric panels, as draped corset belts or simply, the 80s inspired big buckle belts.
Print Party Outerwear
Outerwear took centre stage for menswear on the Milanese runways like never before, as bold prints slammed with plethora of colours were a recurring sight.
From a juxtaposition of multiple animal prints and lush tropicals to well defined paisleys, checks and plaids, artistic paintings, minimalist florals and narcissistic logo prints, the outerwear jackets, coats and cover ups flaunted it all.
Just Like Animals
Animal prints have been on the trends radar since plenty of seasons- but for MMFW, the animal prints took an unrealistic avatar.
Cheetah prints were in red and grey, zebra prints were spaced out, tiger prints were in poison blue hues, cheetah prints gradationed to snake skins and to top it all, different animal prints were utilised for layered looks to match the popping bright outerwear. The stand out of them all were fish-scales in multi-coloured tones and animal prints on fur.
Move over womenswear, sheers is now a buzzword for menswear fashion too.
From dramatic gender-fluid silhouettes of sheer tops hemmed with tutus or peeping through florals in soft pastels and nude shades, glamourized shimmer sheer dress shirts paired with blazers and velvet jackets for formal occasion-wear, the trend enraptured the audience through all.
Red X Black
Black is the new black once again and it came with a bold punch of red for the fashion week.
A plethora of designs could be seen for this winner combination of colours as designers played with dual toned half and half blazers, paired red leather pants with black stripes against vinyl mixed colour jackets and experimented with classic animal motifs with red and black cheetah and Dalmatian prints.
A la Fur
It might be stated that the popularised boycott of animal fur has given a new high to the use of faux fur on the runways.
Fur rose back from the ashes, being ingeniously placed on over-sized collars, front panels, lapels, cuffs and just sleeves, individually, over different garments. Overall fur jackets, short or long, puffy or skinny were paired with basic outfits to raise them from drab to glam.
The very streetwear inspired trend of utility peeped through in the form of exaggerated patch pockets in distorted sizes and fits juxtaposed over puffer, faux leather and vinyl jackets.
The much hyped trend of fanny packs was also a part of this trend with smaller belt pouches, cross shoulder bags or sweatshirts with trims such as fanny pack attachment and buckle closures, dictating the runways for Milan A/W’19.
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