While the fashion of 90s is on the verge of extinction, it was no surprise to witness the Pre-Fall 2016 runways swathed with looks where women’s fashion trends took a serious feminine turn. Under-worn clothing was borrowed and fashioned in various ways to be used as an outerwear and to fit the changing needs of the consumer and the trends. Designers have successfully altered a slip dress and this newly introduced version seems more feminine than ever before. With the runways shouting and pulling in the summer silhouette into the fall vicinity, the slip dress has become what the industry calls as an ‘all-season-clothing’. More and more exporters are catching on to the runway trend of using a slip dress as an outerwear and many retail stores are looking at slip dresses as their hot selling item.
The slip dress has quickly become just about the only thing the industry wants to wear this fall as well as upcoming summer. Whether our inspiration bloomed from sheer metallic slips in the nineties to the lace-trimmed, patterned versions of Louis Vuitton showed on Pre-Fall 2016 runway, it is an evergreen silhouette. It is body-conscious without being bandaged and suggestive of physical form without being revealing. It can be skew romantic or severe; sexy or modest; a curveskimming little slip or a simple dress to be worn alone.
A slip dress is a woman’s dress that closely resembles an underslip. It is traditionally cut on the bias, with spaghetti straps. Slip dresses first became widely worn in the last decade of the 20th century, as part of the underwear-as-outerwear trend. They were made from layered chiffon, polyester satins and charmeuse, and were often trimmed with lace. Agreeing with the trend, Karthik Gupta, Partner, Aadi International shares that they are also working with chiffons and satins for their maxi slip dresses for the coming season. The slip dress looked like an undergarment, but was intended to be seen, and the use of lace and sheer elements, offer brief glimpse of the body beneath. With increased upsurge of bralets, boy shorts and bandeau tops, the trend of underwear as outerwear is in its full bloom again and the reason behind the emergence of slip dress is not a big surprise to the industry.
Slip dresses aren’t just for the boudoir anymore. The slinky dress is having a major moment this winter after being a summer style rage earlier. The stylesetters are wearing it in every possible way, layered with a T-shirt over it to solo with minimal accessories. One pass through the Pre-Fall shows and it is evidently clear that the slip dress is primed to be ‘The Thing’ for 2016. The style came undone at Calvin Klein, lace-trimmed at Céline and Chanel. Altuzarra created the illusion of an elongated neckline with a blush and black slip dress cut and sewn aesthetically in asymmetry; whereas, Michael Kors presented a slip dress-cumlace gown giving a perfect option for a modern bride.
Winter options of the slip dress came in all blacks. With this silhouettes getting transferred from summer to winter, the colours are also getting transformed. The blush, pinks and reds from past seasons are getting all muted. Bringing the actual feeling of boudoir to life, black lace, chiffons, georgettes and satins are incorporated in styles.
Orthodox Line of Thought
Spaghetti strapped slip dresses are being developed in cottons and more professional fabrics take away the innerwear regime of it, making it look more like an ordinary maxi dress. Stella McCartney, Roland Mouret and Alexander Wang are among a few who experimented on these lines. There are a few exporters who have shifted their focus from the construction to the fabric and pattern. Pushpa Shahi, Senior Merchandiser, Creatnet Services throws light on their collection, which is in line with the trend, “Fabrics such as cotton, cambric, poplin and viscose modal are present in our women’s wear pieces, this time and we are also playing with typical men’s patterns like plaid and pinstripes.”
Grunge Goddesses
With the addition of a stoner-style hoodie, the slip dress gets a major dose of grungeforward flair. On the Vetements Spring 2016 runway, a hunter green hoodie thrown over a lavender slip dress gave an instant relaxed effect, while Alexander Wang in Pre-Fall 2016 turned heads in a dark-blue lace – trimmed swath of silk and a blue scarf wrapped around the neck.
About the ’90s…
The revamp of the ’90s on the runway also brought back memories of a very throwback way to wear the slip dress. Seen on 2016 runways from Courrèges to Emilio Pucci, the boudoir staple was layered over a long-sleeved shirt or a simple tee to counter the sexiness of the slip and to cut the sweetness. “We are doing slip dresses and tunic styles in cotton and cambric, mixed with laces and nets,” shares Pankaj Sanon, Manager, A.P. Handicrafts.
Slip Dress as a ‘Not-so-Favourite’ Silhouette…
Though the slip dress is taking the runway by storm, but many exporters are not looking at the slip dress as an opportunity and are willing to skim through it. Aanchal Ahuja, Director, Ahuja Textile Traders, discussing further said, “The slinky, clinging silhouette is not flattering, period. Yes, for the super slender it has a certain soigné vibe, and for the bodyconscious it’s a cooler alternative to a bandage dress or a corseted mini. But the slip dress is something of a nightmare for mass manufacturing, as it is a very niche focused style.”
After conducting a snap poll among many exporters, many proposed layering the slip under an oversize sweater or top. Therefore, many styles are evolving with concealing top, off-shoulder blouses, attached shirts and shrugs with a maxislip dress underneath.
