With majority of exporters offering products in Indian embroideries and techniques, bringing in the tribal touch on modern silhouettes, product development seems to be driven by innovation. Prints, standing out in every aspect – amalgamated with thread, stone and other embroidery techniques – are some of the ways that Indian exporters are trying to do some untouched explorations in value additions. Sequin and bead embroideries sprinkled all over, creating varied textures in distinctive patterns on cocktail dresses, jackets and blouses have emerged as value-add essentials for A/W 2016-17 collections. Hand techniques and technology are blend in the best possible way to create something different than the previous autumn styles…
Sidelining the basic use of wool and similar heavy fabrics, exporters are making a conscious effort of producing value-added products, on much lighter fabrics, including nets and laces. Starting from sheer kimono sleeved crop tops to layered tube dresses, styles of every assortment are witnessing a wide variety of prints, embroideries and weaving techniques incorporated in the collections.
Abstract Prints
Abstract prints are on a high this season. Moving away from just florals and point-blank geometrics, exporters are looking at bright amalgamation of tie-dyed and printed patterns. From graphic and geometric, to tribal and tessellated, prints in all designs and patterns are being incorporated in the collections. Jai Singh Sethia, Designer, Nash Fashion (India) Limited says, “Our collections are majorly concentrating on prints. Tribal sensibilities are a major hit, and if you see the embroideries and prints, both are moving in the more craft-oriented direction. From geometric and abstract to oriental, paisley and floral, we have the widest range of prints possible. And out of all, tribal and paisley prints are mostly in demand.”
Panels are being block-printed and highlighted by thread embroidery; digitally printed background is being decorated with beading. Use of screen and block print together is bringing out some really interesting outputs. All traditional techniques are being carried out in a more contemporary version. Psychedelic prints, idyllic florals and abstract prints are some types of prints that many mass retailers are showcasing as a part of their merchandise these days. Whatever the product, whether trousers or blouses, abstracts, florals, bold patterns, colour splashes, animal prints or novelty prints are the key trends prevailing in the market to pick up from. Batik effects being superimposed by block printed motifs are also being widely used.
Prints for value addition have been continuing since many seasons, but now exporters are combining prints with kantha stitches and hand beading, to create a different look altogether. Exploring varied knots like bullion, fly stitches, and lazy daisy stitches, exporters are able to achieve the traditional Indian tribal embroidery feel. “We are developing styles by patching 2-3 different prints together and mixing embroidery with different prints,” says Ramjan Mondul, MD, Jahura Handicrafts, an exporter of scarves and shawls.
Cording all the Way
Leaving behind the concept of couching, cord embroidery is being seen in blanket stitches, herringbone stitches and cross stitches to create a protruding effect on the 2D fabric surface. Rajesh Kumat, Director, Ganga discussing about the tremendous growth of cord embroidery says, “We are working for our S/S ’17 collection, comprising of thread embroidery and needlework on ladies tops, tunics and skirts. There is big demand for thread embroidery in the market, especially in the USA. Colourful hand embroidery, aari and dori embroidery, cording in different patterns are in huge demand.” Thread and cord embroidery is drawing attention in many designs and patterns. Manipulated in numerous techniques like phulkari, aari and cord embroidery and incorporated with prints and patchwork, thread embroidery is being included as surface ornamentation in all silhouettes possible.
Amongst the techniques, aari embroidery has definitely emerged as the front-runner. As aari becomes even more prominent when done in wool, this technique has become an autumn collection favourite, being used on net, lace, wool and other woven fabrics. A mix of dori and cord embroidery on dresses, forming twisted patterns is also being produced in good numbers, but aari embroidery is definitely the favourite embroidery stitch this season.
Fabric-a-tion
Now it’s no longer about the pleats and waves alone. Neither is fabric manipulation only restricted to pin-tucks, knife pleats and ruffles. With fabrics like rayon, modal blends, nylons and cotton voiles becoming popular and positioning wool and flannel as secondary fabric choices for autumn/winter collections, the art of manipulating fabric in endless possibilities is getting every exporter’s attention. Silky grooves, rabbit ear stitches, trapunto, beaded origami patterns, controlled pleat folding with ripple effect are some new variations of fabric folding and manipulation which are easier to achieve and are very new by the aesthetic.
“We experiment a lot with fabric manipulation to go with the thread embroidery. We are doing shirring, ruching and gathering with elastic stitching for waistbands and all over smocking on dresses and tops. Keeping the conventional knife pleat aside, we also explore block/inverted block pleats, sun pleats, and undulated pleats and tucks a lot, says Bhagwan Sahay Chhipa, MD, Jahota Craft.
Many exporters are also exploiting different trims to make their styles different. Zippers and cords are stitched in various design patterns, strips of box pleated ribbons, tucked from the middle and ruffles are put on neckline as value-add. Smocking, shirring and gathering on the waistbands and bust part of dresses and yokes and sleeve hems of tops and tunics are popular in many collections today. Central gathered strips, undulated tucks and cross shirring are being done to create never-seen-before surfaces on the archetypical winter ponchos and jackets.
