by Shubhi Srivastava
20-June-2019 | 9 mins read
With the positive inclination shown by major consumer groups towards travel and leisure, the travel and luxury industries are witnessing a gradual yet continuous growth. The on-the-high global mobilisation, coupled with the urge to look ‘on-point’ as per the standards social media entails, has given ‘Resort’ fashion the much needed boost. Adding to the propulsion of this segment towards progress is the fact that resortwear is not synonymous with just luxury anymore, opening opportunities for players such as Michael Kors and Saint Laurent, which are engaged in affordable luxury and bridging of market space.
Location plays a major role for Cruise and Resort shows as these revolve around travel, and this year saw several fashion houses exploring unfamiliar territories to strike compatibility with their collection’s design language. Dior took its Cruise 2020 collection to Marrakech, collaborating with several local artisans for weaving, printing and surface texture modifications, while Max Mara tapped Berlin taking its large German market into consideration. Resort 2020 also marked Virginie Viard’s first collection as Chanel’s Creative Director after the demise of Karl Lagerfeld. Louis Vuitton came up with a new destination, as Nicolas Ghesquière chose the newly renovated TWA Flight Center at the John F. Kennedy International Airport.
Resort fashion today includes anything and everything that can be worn by vacationers leisurely relaxing on the beach, exploring architectural ruins, or skiing down blankets of snow–or all of them together. Resortwear today includes everything like co-ordinated sets, outdoorsy yet glamourous outerwear, but the biggest category among them is swimwear, which is corroborated by Euromonitor as it valued the global swimwear market at about US $ 20.8 billion ending 2018, and it is expected to grow by a CAGR of 2.2 per cent to reach US $ 22.7 billion by 2022. Owing to their multi-functional and multi-purpose abilities, one-piece swimsuits turned out to be the most sold silhouettes of the lot in 2018, as per Edited.com.
Going away from the conventional easy, breezy and minimal aesthetics, Resort 2020 incorporated loud and progressive fashion trends with styles, slammed with overpowering prints, exaggerated silhouettes, luxe fabrics and glamourising value addition details. Apparel Online dives into the initial wave of resortwear collections for the first trend report of Resort 2020.
A saturation of print was one of the biggest traits showcased on the Resort 2020 memo, as busy prints on their own or contrasting against even heavier motifs were the aesthetics the designers inclined towards.
Dior mixed and matched several panels of ethnic prints inspired by local arts of Morocco, while Burberry kept narcissism on the high with graffiti-like busy prints right from the turtleneck to the printed boots. Thom Browne mixed and matched different styles of stripes while Prada and Gucci kept it playful with a mosaic of classic yet contrasting patterns such as checks, stripes paired against florals and tropicals.
Serenity might have been the Pantone Colour of the Year 2016, but the blue palette definitely made several appearances for Resort 2020, mostly leaning towards the cooler side. Designers aimed to channel the calm and laidback lifestyle that the cool tone represents with head-to-toe looks dipped in varying hues of blue in purple and white undertones.
Co-ordinated sets with button down shirts, waist-tie blazers and knitted pullovers set against straight and boxy fit pants were the most common of the trend, while the colour also appeared in the form of panels on the side seams or hems, set against complementing shades such as white and contrasting shades such as black.
Bringing back the ’80s charm were fringes in multifarious forms adding value to styles that were otherwise understated. New and old take on classic fringes hacked the runways – right from the old cowboy-style leather fringes and hemline woven thread fringes to edgy metallic fringe-style chains and bejewelled fringes placed over embroidered eveningwear styles.
Designers also experimented with offbeat fringe placement by attaching fringes to the side seams of relaxed fit pants, or sewing floor length fringes over necklines or presenting fringes through different tiers of midi-dresses.
Contrasting with the heavy print trend was a play of single tone outfits that popped with bright colours of the spectrum. Despite the single colour family aspect, these attires featured several components either layered, or attached together, giving a play on volumes and structure.
Three piece suit-sets were the most recurring of the lot, showcasing button down, belted or double-breasted blazers, with colour-matching vests and straight cut pants. A more casual approach was pairing crop tops with co-ordinated solid sets or an addition of easy knit cover-ups with suit-sets.
The ostentatious nightlife of the vacation season prompts consumers to go all out in party and occasionwear, in turn inspiring the fashion houses and designers to incorporate heavy lustre in brilliant shades in their collections.
The most common of the glossy trend were sequined metallic reds and maroon, bejewelled or embellished iridescent finishes, silver-finished mosaic prints, understated or foiled gold and jewelled brilliant blue and dazzling oranges.
Stripes proved to be one of the biggest print patterns out of the complete Resort 2020 lot that has unveiled the collection until now. Either bold or lined, or in varying sizes, colours and direction, stripes were cleverly balanced throughout the garments to create illusions over the structure of the silhouette.
The print imposed itself most commonly over co-ordinated sets containing 3 or more parts in all-over stripes or stripe print fabric panelled with solids. Metallic or sequined stripes, brand monogram coloured stripes, multi-directional stripes and three stripes over sleeve hems and waistlines were other instances.
The nonchalant glamour promised by tiered styles is what made them a regular vision on the runways this season, along with their versatile compatibility with casual as well as dressy garments. Alberta Ferretti went for organza and micro-pleat fabrics for heavily tiered outfits, while Chanel featured small yet several tiers in plaid chiffon ankle-length dresses and mosaic print strappy dresses.
Gucci and Giorgio Armani went for heavier fabrics showing tiers with contrasting hems, as the former even added multiple shapes as per embroidery motifs of the hemlines. Dsquared2 went for the atypical assertion of tiers by presenting micro-tiers placed on exaggerated sleeves.
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