by Shubhi Srivastava
11-September-2019 | 8 mins read
Menswear kick-started the new decade of fashion, and it was the most internationally spread season for the segment as runways right from the big four that include New York, Milan, Paris and London to other significantly popularising ones like that of Shanghai, Malibu, Florence, Copenhagen and Provençe showcased their version of the new man. Soft femininity was a trait noticed in a few seasons gone by, but Spring 2020 was all about balancing strong masculine influences with complete beautification of menswear, to outline a utopian man who represents change, evolution and feminism. The menswear consumer groups are now adapting to the dynamic trends more eagerly, and the designers are cashing in on it.
Mirroring the progress on the runways, the commercial menswear space has been slowly outpacing the growth that was recorded by womenswear. In fact, the rate of expenditure of menswear has outdone that of womenswear gradually since 2009, according to business intelligence firm L2 Inc. As per to Euromonitor International, menswear sales are projected to top that of womenswear over the next six years. “The power of the male fashion consumer is more than [just] buzz,” said Sidney Toledano, Head of LVMH’s fashion group, adding, “There’s strong demand across the men’s fashion industry, in all its shapes and forms, and which come in part from a younger clientele. We see this very clearly in the sales.”
Naturally sublime silhouettes and epicene details furthered this trend. The mix included sublime, easily transitioning silhouettes that ranged from boxy and clean-cut shoulders against contoured waists to body-accentuating cycling shorts or leggy pants, a few styles that were once identified with womenswear exclusively. Details such as chains, sheer panels, ruching and draping also elevated the styles from their conventional norms to add the metro-sexual quotient of the modern man.
Here is Apparel Online’s edit of the silhouettes and details’ trends that will dictate the upcoming Spring/Summer 2020 season for menswear.
Bellows Pockets For The Win
Utility trend started with a subtle touch but has now become an inherent trait of several collections regardless of the gender and bellows pockets are at the core of this utility wave. These pockets were placed over jumpers, windbreakers, sweatshirts and sweaters to add the street factor to casual styles, or were positioned over sleek jackets, tailored blazers, pants and crisp shirts to make smart formals a little more functional by a plethora of designers.
The most common instances of the trend Bicycle shorts were one of the top retail bestsellers for womenswear in the past seasons, and the trend was picked up by were bellows placed over the bodice in symmetrical form to cover the torso panels of half jackets, safari-inspired khaki shirts and contoured blazers.
Men’s Cycling Edit
Bicycle shorts were one of the top retail bestsellers for womenswear in the past seasons, and the trend was picked up by menswear designers as well, despite the snug fit they impart to the wearer. Smart tailoring shifted from boxy shorts and blazers to contoured jackets paired against cycling shorts in fabrics ranging from lurex, lycra and polyester blends to satin, gabardine and silk as well.
A new version of the shorts also appeared on the runways in the form of layered shorts, with body-conforming lengthier biker shorts, and boxier and cropped shorts layered over them in contrasting fabrics.
Gaga Over Gilet
Sleevless, cropped length jackets resembling a cosier version of waistcoats and blouses were a recurring sight in the menswear presentations, displaying a surfeit of variations in lengths, fabric weight and techniques. Knitted gilets were on top, followed by light weight and sheer gilets that were layered over contrasting vests and tops along with multipocket heavy-duty version of sleeveless jackets.
Knits were the highlight of this trend with techniques such as negative area knits, loose yarn knits and general jersey knits superimposed with flock Scarves have been key to the accessories segment since they first recorded traction in sales in early 2016, and for Spring/ yarns and 3D embroideries. The gilets often highlighted a signatory print or surface decoration of the garment worn underneath it.
Scarves have been key to the accessories segment since they first recorded traction in sales in early 2016, and for Spring/Summer ’20, menswear designers used them as an element of the ensemble as a whole. These scarves are now attached to the headgears worn by men that include camouflage baseball caps extending into long capes and knitted beanies grading into ponchos.
Prints and Coordinates
Coordinated sets have established a strong position on the trends radar and the runways have concluded that they are here to stay for the Spring 2020 edit as well, but with a slam of bright prints and colours. The usual smart tailored version of coordinated sets was revamped by designers to showcase styles such as checkered rain-shielding sets, shirtless blazers and shorts along with shirtless bejewelled and studded sets.
The prints were a diverse mix of motifs right from psychedelic VIBGYOR J umpsuits formulated a part of several collections for the runway season for menswear, with styles migrating from one tie and dyes, underwater fantasy creatures, metallic vintage rock band inspired words to tropical flora and loud abstract wall graffiti over shining whites.
Jumpsuits formulated a part of several collections for the runway season for menswear, with styles migrating from one version to another, be it functional broiler jumpsuits, ostentatious occasionwear collared jumpsuits, easygoing drawstring overall jumpsuits or travel and safari-inspired khaki jumpsuits. The silhouette style was layered with blazers to give an illusion of three-piece suit-sets.
Several fabrics such as striped metallics, classic denim, satin and heavyweight cottons were used for the construction with stripes being the most popular prints. Versatile closures were used for the jumpsuits, including broad waist panels, longline vertical zippers, double – breasted collars with dual sided zippers, drawstrings and simple button-downs.
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